thanks guys for pointing me in the right direction. Theres a very reputable battery shop i pass on my commute, and ill let him do the job, even if it is close to stealership cost i will be happy that FORD isnt getting more money than they need from me [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
--Ryan
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91 f-350, dually, 7.3 diesel. 2wd, 4.10 gears LS. E4OD. New injectors, lift pump, and fuel filter at current 85,000 miles. Autometer pyro and fuel turned up. 3" exhaust with walker "btm" muffler http://community.webshots.com/user/olivera_149
I just,yesterday, put a new cable on the passenger side battery down to the starter. The P.O. had already cut the original one from the driver side and had a eye put on it and it was just slipped over the bolt to tighten the clamp. My new Exide Orbital batteries have both a standard top post and a side GM style screw in terminal. So I just attached the cable from drivers side battery to the side terminal. It seems to work fine. I had to use bronze marine clamp-on terminal ends, because that is all I could find down here other than the cheapo lead clamp-ons. Starter spins mucho rapido. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
Baja.... I bought those same cables 6 years ago and really like them. I have since replaced the positive ends with their military style clamps and have NEVER had a porblem with starting issues. I soldiered the new ends on the new cables so now all I need to do to remove power from the system is take the 3/8 nut and bolt apart and the clamp on the battery post never needs to be removed. Yes it gets attention when needed but thats not very often. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
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I'm really happy with the cables and ends I bought from Wrangler NW Power Products in Portland Oregon. Phone is 503-235-4110
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And here is their web site. Click Here
Check out the price of the positive dual cable [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]Baja
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That's not very cheap! I would like to make one or get one, but I don't know how to do the passenger side, how the cable passes through that terminal. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]
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'93 F-250 XL Supercab Longbed
7.3L IDI
-These are not "mods", but they should help in troubleshooting, what I've replaced so far!
--Fresh rebuilt Tranny (E4OD), new tach sensor, new FIPL "sensor", Glowplug relay checks "OK", new VSS.
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'93 F-250 XL Supercab Longbed
7.3L IDI
-These are not "mods", but they should help in troubleshooting, what I've replaced so far!
--Fresh rebuilt Tranny (E4OD), new tach sensor, new FIPL "sensor", Glowplug relay checks "OK", new VSS.
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'93 F-250 XL Supercab Longbed
7.3L IDI
-These are not "mods", but they should help in troubleshooting, what I've replaced so far!
--Fresh rebuilt Tranny (E4OD), new tach sensor, new FIPL "sensor", Glowplug relay checks "OK", new VSS.
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'93 F-250 XL Supercab Longbed
7.3L IDI
-These are not "mods", but they should help in troubleshooting, what I've replaced so far!
--Fresh rebuilt Tranny (E4OD), new tach sensor, new FIPL "sensor", Glowplug relay checks "OK", new VSS.
Sorry to all the loyal 7.3 guys, but I traded my '91 7.3 in on a 2002 F250 Ex cab V10 4x4. SCT Xcalibrator2 with tunes by Powerplay Performance. 285/75/16 Toyo M/T's. Took a long time to get used to the ping-pop of a cooling catalytic converter...LOL.
'85 Bronco swapped up to a 302 4bbl from the 300 I6, NP435 4spd, NP208, 32x11.50x15 Radial RVT's, Soon to be 6.9 turbo powered.
86 F350 Cab&Chassis with a dump bed. 2wd 6.9 and 4 spd tranny. No mods to engine.
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That second one looks like a pretty decent buy...
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That's what I'm thinking...hopefully someone can chime in on the quality! $100 for all 3!!!
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'93 F-250 XL Supercab Longbed
7.3L IDI
-These are not "mods", but they should help in troubleshooting, what I've replaced so far!
--Fresh rebuilt Tranny (E4OD), new tach sensor, new FIPL "sensor", Glowplug relay checks "OK", new VSS.
the battries in my dump truck had 3/8 bolts for post instead of the lead post found on most battries. i noticed that they had very little corosion problems so i started changing all of my equipment over to that type of battery. allmost all battery shops have them in stock . on my ford i cut the lead ends off my cables and put on new ends,also from the battery shop. the end look like a large crimp on lug with a 3/8 hole in it . the battery shop also had some red and black shrink tube ,very heavy duty that has hot glue inside of it. i barred the ends of my wire slid on the shrink tube dipped the end of the wire into soldering flux put on the lug ,gave it a whach with a hammer and then put the torch to it and soldered the lug on. after it cools clean off the flux ,slide the shrink tube up over the sholder of the lug and heat with the torch ,it shrinks and melts the glue at the same time . the glue squeezes out of the ends and seals to the lug and the cable makeing a acid proof seal. a 3/8 washer and nut hold the lugs to the battery ,tight and with very little maintenance. i found that the original ford cables had enough slack in them to use them over, however i had very little corrosion to start with i have seen cables that were corroded back under the insulation for several inches rendering them unuseable...back to the battery shop.
For your information, gold is NOT the best conductor. Outside of super conductors, silver is the best conductor, then copper. Look it up if you don't believe me... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
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1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
--motor/trans sold--
2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg
1997 Dodge 3500: 2WD Cab & Chassis, 12V Cummins, 47RE Automatic, Dana 80, 194,000mi. Parting out.
1989 12V VE Cummins out of Chevy C60? at the machine shop...going into the Ford.
For your information, gold is NOT the best conductor. Outside of super conductors, silver is the best conductor, then copper. Look it up if you don't believe me... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
Gold is only used in highly critical areas because it still has good conductivity, but will not corrode. That's why it's used.
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1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
--motor/trans sold--
2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg
1997 Dodge 3500: 2WD Cab & Chassis, 12V Cummins, 47RE Automatic, Dana 80, 194,000mi. Parting out.
1989 12V VE Cummins out of Chevy C60? at the machine shop...going into the Ford.
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