Are there any benefits to the electric fuel pump that so many of yall have? and how do you tell if your lift pump is going out? pretty sure mines not, just curious--again.
Air leaks become a thing of the past(they now become fuel leaks, but are much easier to find...)
Mine runs while I'm waitin' for the glow plugs, so when I hit the key, the fuel pressure is up already and the engine always fires first piston to the top!
Some use really nice ones. I use a cheap $30 facet from Auto Zone. 7PSI. Seems to work fine for me.
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1990 F-350 Dually 4X4 CC Rebuilt Turbo and NEW 7.3L DAS engine, rebuilt rear diff, Reman E4OD Stage 1 injectors Stage 1 pump Baumann recal kit and TDC for E4OD dead trans again...
2004 F-350 4X4 CC 6.0 PSD
2004 Wilderness 320dbhs TT
I was working out a fuel system on a race car project at work that needed a low pressure pump feeding a surge tank which housed the high pressure fuel injection pump. I had both a $100 Holley Blue and the smallest $30 Facet - guess which one provided the highest flow rate by a good margin... I still have the mechanical lift pump on my truck, but next time it goes out I might give the facet a try...
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Early 99 F350 CC Dually 6 speed - just acquired with only 290,000 on the odometer... Build date of 11/98. '91 F250 standard cab, 3 E4OD's in first 100k, Hypermax turbo, 99 powerstroke intercooler, 6 yes 6 speed ZF tranny installed at 100k miles!!, '99 E-350 ambulance disc brake, limited slip, 4.10 rear end 1983 Ford Ranger Diesel - 2.2l Mazda engine, custom built 5 speed using RX-7 parts, custom built ex manifold to add a variable nozzle turbo off a Mercedes, homebuilt 2 tank WVO system
1946 Dodge COE 1.5 ton in process of restoring and repowering with Detroit 4-53 turbo and Road Ranger 610. My shop
Most, I say most, use the Holley Red pump. I think the reason most use them is because they work and last a long time. The pump plenty of fuel, almost 2x as much as a NA stocker IDI would use. Now when and if you ever bump up to a turbocharger, HO IP, and other unspeakable things, the electric is just right. Plus, Zigg was right on by saying air in lines is a think of the past. Now you have straight fuel leaks which are EASY To find. Overall, it is a great deal, cheaper ones will work, but the HOLLEY Red will work everytime. Scotty
Eric -> '92, F250, 7.3l IDI, extracab, longbox, one ton spring in the rear,Borg Warner 1356 transfer case, 12500lb winch. 280k km. Since purchased in June 2003 repairs include: ball joints, tie rod ends, all u joints, water pump, radiator, brake calipers, brake pads & shoes, rear drums, front wheel bearings & seals, rear axel seals, replaced transfer case, rebuilt rear differential, replaced bent drive shaft, replaced drive shaft support bearing, K&N air filter, dual 2.5" exhaust.
Probably SHOULD work, but when dealing with the truck, I try to stick with known goods, so I try to sway most to the Holley. I know it costs a little upfront, but man, it works for alot of folks, and I have not heard of a failure YET.. You can try alot of different pumps, but if you want something that will work everytime, without question, the Holley Red has most of our votes. Scotty
Is there a write up detailing the install of this? Or, is it just as simple as provide it switched power, and hook up the lines? What happens to the old mechanical pump?
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Ryan
1988 F250 Supercab, 4x4, 7.3 IDI, C6 Auto, 147K miles
Banks Sidewinder non-wastegated Turbo, Stage 1 Injectors, and Pyro, Boost and Water guages.
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Is there a write up detailing the install of this? Or, is it just as simple as provide it switched power, and hook up the lines? What happens to the old mechanical pump?
[/ QUOTE ] Bypass the mechanical pump and run the lines into the new electric one, your best bet for power would be run a switched source (fuel shutoff sol.) to a relay and hook the relay to direct batery power. As far as the pump you posted a link to, I would stay well away from it, I put one on a 400 ford and it couldn't provide enough fuelto keep it running. These guys are all right on with the holley or there is also the carter line, basically the same design as the lift pump on the 24 valve Cummins in the Dodges. Jegs sells them but I can't remember the price.
Get rid of the old lift pump, put a BIG BLOCK CHEVY block off fuel plate over the opening and get rid of the old pump. No need in having it sitting there. Just run a simple rubber line and be done with it. You can run your power wire to anything that turns on with the key. I actually used my GV's hot lead, since it turns on with the key, but anything that runs hot when the key is on. You may also look at using a oil pressure shutoff switch, that way if you roll the truck and the engine stops running, the fuel pump will also cut off, that way you will not continue pumping fuel. Scotty
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Probably SHOULD work, but when dealing with the truck, I try to stick with known goods, so I try to sway most to the Holley. I know it costs a little upfront, but man, it works for alot of folks, and I have not heard of a failure YET.. You can try alot of different pumps, but if you want something that will work everytime, without question, the Holley Red has most of our votes. Scotty
[/ QUOTE ]Yup! I've been using the Holley<font color="red"> red </font>pump since August, 2000. If I had to do it over, I would still use the<font color="red"> red </font>pump, or maybe the Carter 4070. The Carter 4070 feeds the 10.4 liter "yellow kitty" 3208 in my "motorhome" without any problems. And it's slightly less expensive than the<font color="red"> red </font>pump.
Summit sells a rebuild kit for the<font color="red"> red </font>pump, which I bought at the same time as I bought the pump. The rebuild kit is still in the bag. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
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; 4.10 axles; 5-speed ZF "Bolt-Action"; ATS turbo installed @ 158K; Holley "Red" pump; new injectors and 2nd Reman IP@ 234.5K; "Coffee Can" (4") downpipe-back exhaust....
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