The high here has been a whoping 0-3 degrees here lately in Alaska, and conveniently my block heater decided to take a crap last week. I have a new can style heater to put in but I cant start the truck. The glow plugs are fully functioning and the diesel here is already pretreated for the cold weather. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do to get this thing started so I can get this to the shop so I can put my new heater in. I really need to get this thing fixed soon before it warms up and snows this weekend because my other vehicle is def no DD and does not do well in the snow. Any help is appreciated.
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-1990 F-250 7.3 IDI 4x4, 5 speed manual, Stock Block heater, living cold, living in alaska.
Deceased--1990 F350 2wd DRW Super Cab E4OD 7.3l IDI
Gooseneck hitch, Flowmaster (single inlet/dual out), 60 gal tank/toolbox/bedrails/headache rack (custom built, welded together as 1 unit), 3 gauge pillar pod w/glowshift gauges, oil, water temp, trans temp
Never ask "What else can go wrong?" cause something will.
Got a torch? Pull the air cleaner off and heat the intake manifold.
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Phil
1988 F350, NA 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, 4.10 SRW. Miles: over 450K. Being taken off the road within the next month or so to deal with advanced rust. May just do a resto/rebuild to better my bodywork & paint skills.
Before you put that new heater in check the male end of the cord on your block heater. The wires have a habit of breaking right close to the plug. If it is you can pick up a new one at a hardware store for a couple of bucks and be back in business.
better hurry up, already -25 below on the slope, and -30 the other day in fairbanks, I run the small Pad heaters on the oil pan and trans also (250w). and only plug those in when it gets realy cold
Take a torpedo heater and set it so the heat rises into the engine compartment (let it run for about 30 min. Also take a heat gun and set it so it blows the really hot air into the intake. With both heaters running try to start the engine. This method usually works for me. It takes a little longer but i don't risk hurting the engine with ether.
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1991 F-250 4x4 lariat bone stock 7.3idi
1984 Diesel ranger piece of (rusty) work
As mentioned check the electrical plug at the end of the cord where you plug it into the extension cord. This is where they fail!
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Regards,
Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA
02 E350 15 Passenger, 52,000 Miles
'90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 400K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, No ELC! (Extended Life Coolant) & 10 Oz. Bars Stop Leak, Retired 11/8/2011 with blown trans.
My son just bought a "new" 1990 F250 7.3L diesel (no turbo)
It has cold start problems which I'll detail more in depth in a minute.
One of the problems was the block heater wasn't working.
After encouraging him to consult with you guys on the forum I looked around myself.
Thanks to this thread we knocked off one of the cold start issues.
We disconnected the power cord and "rung it out".
Shur nuff as I moved around the male end, while ringing, the continuity came and left.
So for a $5 replacement end (I bought a nice one) we fixed that problem.
Now after being plugged in it starts like a champ!!
One down, next on the list:
When trying to do a cold start without the block being pre warmed we still have an issue.
(It would be nice to be able to cold start without the plug for when the plug is not available or time is an issue).
What happens is the truck fires up after 4-5 cranks. It runs for 2-3 seconds then dies.
It is hard to restart at this point.
Is there a thread or a "next" or a list of checks that we should run thru to try and alleviate this problem?
Thanks for your help and all the great advice on this site.
A friend's truck, it ended up being the plug... wires broke right behind the molded portion.
The propane heater shooting under the truck to heat the engine and a heat gun into the intake should work fine. If one doesn't want to loose too much heat, a tarp could be used over the sides of the truck/engine compartment.
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1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS x2
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
Thanks for the tip Plywood.
So would it be safe to say a leaking fuel tank could do the same thing?
As I mentioned in my 1st post on this thread he just got the truck so we are still getting the feel for it. He mentioned he thought the tank might have a leak.
I will certainly inspect the return lines as well.
Thanks for the tip Plywood.
So would it be safe to say a leaking fuel tank could do the same thing?
Bill
Well if it's leaking from the actual tank then not likely, but if it's leaking from a fuel line near the tank then maybe.
If you look on e-bay or check an IP shop the return line kits are not much for what they do to eliminate problems, great place to start even if your not sure you need one now.
Also check your filter head for wet spots and the metal line from the filter head to the IP (injector pump) for leaks.
You can also get a piece of clear PVC fuel line or Superthane polyurethane fuel line and install it from the filter head to the #1 injector return cap, then you can see if air bubbles are getting in. Just take the line with you since there are two different sizes, you will have to bleed the filter and maybe the injectors once you remove that line and let a bunch of air in.
well, it was the plug that was broken, fixed it. Found out the real reason my truck didn't start was they didn't put the cold weather diesel in the pumps in time for the cold front. So all the fuel was gelled, wouldn't have been able to start it with a working heater. A bunch of other diesels had the same problem of not starting i found out. Now i put diesel 911 in every tank.
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-1990 F-250 7.3 IDI 4x4, 5 speed manual, Stock Block heater, living cold, living in alaska.
well, it was the plug that was broken, fixed it. Found out the real reason my truck didn't start was they didn't put the cold weather diesel in the pumps in time for the cold front. So all the fuel was gelled, wouldn't have been able to start it with a working heater. A bunch of other diesels had the same problem of not starting i found out. Now i put diesel 911 in every tank.
Sometimes the "simplest" solution is not even thought of....
Had that happen to me.... had an ag tractor that started and died. Didn't treat my fuel/mix winter fuel into the tank. So, I usually end up putting treatment into my bulk tank when ever I order fuel... be it summer or winter.... that way I know the fuel won't gell.
At least the plug was the only issue for the block heater.
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1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS x2
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
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Never ask "What else can go wrong?" cause something will.
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