Just wondering what size of extension cord I need to run the block heater? Will probably run 25 to 40 ft cord? How many amps does the heater draw?
__________________
1989 F250 single cab 2WD
7.3 IDI with 150,000 miles
Single Straight Exhaust with 4" Chrome Tip
No Soupbowl
E40D
LT 265/75/16 Yokohama AT's on 16x7's
Factory Hubcaps
Gooseneck hitch
Homade rear pipe bumper with built in utility-lights and D-rings
Diamond Plate Aluminum Toolbox
Tinted Windows
Future mods: Roof Markers and front pipe bumper
1997 F250 Extended cab 4x4
PowerStroke Diesel, E40D, Manual Hubs
All Stock Except Exhaust - No Cat, 18" Glasspack
I was wondering the same thing, I'll throw a test cord on mine today and run an amp check. I own an electric motor sales and service business, so one of the fringe benefits of that is I have lots of cool toys to play with! I'll let you know. I'm sure they take more when cold due to higher resistance, but I don't imagine they change a drastic amount as long as they are mostly cool when starting. I'll check in a little while and post the results! Crexrun
__________________
92 F250 4x4 Super Cab, 4:10s and a 5 speed
1991 Honda CRX HF with DOHC VTEC B16 swap
1978 Ford Fairmont with 351W factory four barrel HO, C6 trans and 16" wheels
1955 Chevy stepside, project, being set on a 2000 crown vic frame, air ride and OHC 4.6 motor
1984 Honda CR250R dirtbike, bored and restored
yeah - just use the shortest 12ga you can get away with.
i like the better quality cords like 'yellow jackets' & the like.
__________________
Frank
Unofficial BOOB man (unofficial BUTT division: brotherhood of un-turboed trucks)
meet Big Black, my 1992 International 3/4 ton pickup wrapped in a Ford skin: 2wd, LWB, N/A 7.3, ZF5, 3.55s. 249k miles.
Amsoil bypass & AF. 3" true duals. no soup for me. 'ghetto' fresh air. Baja block drains. bottle broke. slobber tube. true dual 3" straight pipes. now a TRUE oil burner - she's drinking 15% Bunker Fuel (WMO).
OK, here's the official results- you could run mine off of a string of christmas lights.
I have been an electrician for 5 years, and have seen about everything. So, I'm pretty careful when it comes to stuff, and I repair power tools and electric motors for a living now. So, here's the results.
Start test ambient air temp, 7F above zero.
Resistance when cold (sitting for 3 hours) 14.7 ohms between the leads on the cord, clean connections, digital multimeter
Amp draw- 7.2 amps
That equals out to 864 watts when cold at 120.
After 15 min, it was drawing 7.0 amps.
And after 1 hour, 6.8 amps
resistance dropped to 12.8 ohms
and the wattage equates out to 816 watts.
After 1 full hour, That element is probably close to as hot as it will get, it will heat the fluid in teh immediate vicinity to the same temp as heating element, and then it will radiate out from there.
So, in closing, my stock (I'm pretty sure) block heater draws 7.2 amps max, well within the range of any common extension cord of I'd say less than 50 feet.
That is for THHN stranded wire in conduit, it was the only table I had handy. Standard household Romex wire standard is 14g- 15 amps, and 12g-20 amps, 10g-30 amps.
Of course voltage drops over distance, but you will still have very near your starting voltage even on a 100 foot cord, as long as it's in good condition. Voltage drop is usually more important in things like motor starting.
So, I'd say use a good, cold weather cord of at least 16g (which most are) and if it's farther, step up to 14g.
And one last note, not that it would hurt anything to use a 10g cord, but look at the cord coming out of the front of yoru truck, that's maybe a 14, maybe a 16. Hope this helps someone, Crexrun
__________________
92 F250 4x4 Super Cab, 4:10s and a 5 speed
1991 Honda CRX HF with DOHC VTEC B16 swap
1978 Ford Fairmont with 351W factory four barrel HO, C6 trans and 16" wheels
1955 Chevy stepside, project, being set on a 2000 crown vic frame, air ride and OHC 4.6 motor
1984 Honda CR250R dirtbike, bored and restored
I use 16 or 14 gauge cord. 25' to 50' (depending on where I park it) I plug in my '88 anytime that the nighttime low will be below 40-45 degrees. I can start the engine without it having the block heater on overnite, but it's just so much easier on the starter if it's been plugged in.
Nice post crexrun everything you said makes sense but one thing I noticed is when I use a heavier cord the lights in my barn seem to only flicker when I plug my truck in but when I use a smaller cord the lights seem to dim plus for the money I rather be safe then sorry [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
Thanks guys, I just wanted to get the information, for myself too. As far as the lights dimming, electricity is a strange animal. It's one of those things that "shouldn't" but it does, know what I mean? Personally, when I get a cord, I always get a heavy one, just because, but I just wanted to find out if it was necessary. The only reason that the lights would dim is the resistance in the lighter cord in conjunction with the heater makes more resistance, hence slightly more load, so in your case, I'd go heavier too, but a lighter (16-14g) wouldn't be a safety issue in my opinion, there must be quite a bit of draw on that circuit already to cause any flicker or dimming, or possibly some resistance in the barn wiring. Nothin worth worrying about, it could be as simple as an old outlet. Well, I suppose, back to the old grind, have a good day, Crexrun
__________________
92 F250 4x4 Super Cab, 4:10s and a 5 speed
1991 Honda CRX HF with DOHC VTEC B16 swap
1978 Ford Fairmont with 351W factory four barrel HO, C6 trans and 16" wheels
1955 Chevy stepside, project, being set on a 2000 crown vic frame, air ride and OHC 4.6 motor
1984 Honda CR250R dirtbike, bored and restored
Thats great crexrun the info is appreaciated I use 25' 12 gauge cords for my trucks just for safety the barn and wiring is new so its not an age problem I was just pointing out how a heavier cord is better with out going in to the tech part [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
I gotcha. I like heavy cords too. Just seems like I never have one around when I need one! Crexrun
__________________
92 F250 4x4 Super Cab, 4:10s and a 5 speed
1991 Honda CRX HF with DOHC VTEC B16 swap
1978 Ford Fairmont with 351W factory four barrel HO, C6 trans and 16" wheels
1955 Chevy stepside, project, being set on a 2000 crown vic frame, air ride and OHC 4.6 motor
1984 Honda CR250R dirtbike, bored and restored
What gauge are the common orange ones with 3 prongs 2 hot and a ground...like we use for Christams lights and power tools? Taht's what I have been usinga nd no indications of an unsafe condition.
J.D.
__________________
J.D.'s Fords: 1986 F-250 6.9 diesel Solid State Glow Plug System 3.55 gears C-6 2WD 178,960 miles.... it still runs pretty good!
Wishlist H-max turbo, T19 tranny,
1989 Ford Ranger ga$$er, non runner, soon to be donated or scrapped!
more than likely a 14ga cord, JD.
it'll be ok, but feel how warm it is after 2-3 hrs with the BH on... that is called resistance [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img]
again, i like a big fat HD 12ga ext. cord for 120v use. regardless of length (i have everything from 9ft to 100ft cords).
edit:
i don't think you can find 10ga 120v cords in stores... if you thought it was necessary (200 ft run?), i bet you'd have to make it yourself.
__________________
Frank
Unofficial BOOB man (unofficial BUTT division: brotherhood of un-turboed trucks)
meet Big Black, my 1992 International 3/4 ton pickup wrapped in a Ford skin: 2wd, LWB, N/A 7.3, ZF5, 3.55s. 249k miles.
Amsoil bypass & AF. 3" true duals. no soup for me. 'ghetto' fresh air. Baja block drains. bottle broke. slobber tube. true dual 3" straight pipes. now a TRUE oil burner - she's drinking 15% Bunker Fuel (WMO).
I have several 100+ foot 10 gauge 3 conductor ex cords on the service truck. FOR the life of me I cant remember where I got them? white cap or grainger maybe? Thanks to osha I have to have these if its a decent sized jobsite where BS rules are king. They even came with the "proper" twist lock connectors on the ends. I had to make small pigtails to acutally use them anywhere other than the damn temporary junction box or generator.
__________________
1994 7.3 I.D.I. Navistar 444 CI
ATS Factory TURBO E4OD Red On white Crew Cab DRW 4:10 w/ AUBURN LIMITED SLIP
3" ATS Exhaust and turbo housing, Banks Trans Command, calibrated pump, K&N filter, Gruss style coolant filter, 203K+MI not a lick of trouble with the motor. now on 16th trans. 10 under factory 100K mile warranty
Alpine CVA-7878 XM radio 6cd changer 3 8" phoenix gold subs 75x4 Sony mobile ES gold 4ch amp, Sony 500W 1ch amp MB quart components in Q forms kick panels. 1 farad cap.
Pro car parts jewel cut headlamps and turn signals
APC clear cab markers, suvlights.com harness silverstar bulbs and L.E.D.'s in the fenders. IT's paid for and its MINE!
Family Toys and tools,
00'F350 psd CC Drw 2wd Bright Amber Western Hauler
SOLD 01' Peterbilt 330 4Dr. Texas trucks conversion cAt 350hp
02' Psd Excursion Limited ultimate Estate Green helliwig swaybar 101K miles
1996 fetherlite 4 horse GN, 2003 sooner 6 horse GN with midtack