it broke off... - Diesel Forum

welder79 · 03-09-2005, 09:47 AM

Hey all,

This past weekend my buddy helped me change my belts out....what a friend!!! Don't ask me why but he climbed in the engine bay to get a good spot for prying on the alternator. Ever since when engine is cold in the morning the glow plugs seem to cycle differently. They come on and go off but they used to cycle regularly after the light went off but now they cycle very quickly off on off on...very strange.
So I go and look underthe hood where my buddy climbed in....the passenger side of the engine bay up around the voltage regulator and I see this vacuum hose laying on the fenderwell. I can see where it broke off the spicket(is in the hose) of this round instrument but I don't know what this instrument is. It dosen't lay flat but it stands up, is circular in shape is about an inch or so thick, and has a few wires coming off of it that go into a good size wiring harness that seems to lead to the main harness that goes to the gp controller if I remember correctly. I know someone here will know what this thging is and what it does and where I can get one.

kvtaylor · 03-09-2005, 11:51 AM

That sounds like the vacume warning buzzer. I have seen very few that still work. But you need to at least plug the hose.

Ken taylor

agnem · 03-09-2005, 01:07 PM

I agree. From your description, it is the vacuum loss indicator. Your Brake warning light is probably not going off. You'll need a new one. I suspect your friend damaged some other stuff while he was in there. Engine compartments are really not made for crawling around in with wild abandon.

OkieGringo · 03-09-2005, 01:40 PM

Check ALL the connectors to the glow plugs, and the electrical connectors to the Injection Pump. There is a black plug connector in the GP circuit at the back of the engine compartment. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]Baja

mgraveman · 03-09-2005, 01:44 PM

I agree. The glow problem is probably a bad one or one that you knocked loose.

cdnsarguy · 03-09-2005, 01:57 PM

I'm leaning toward the Tuna can for the brakes.........

FordCummins1 · 03-09-2005, 03:35 PM

[ QUOTE ]
I'm leaning toward the Tuna can for the brakes.........

[/ QUOTE ]

You mean the family sized bake bean can that is under the drivers side battery [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

welder79 · 03-09-2005, 03:49 PM

what would be wrong with the can?

FordCummins1 · 03-09-2005, 04:01 PM

[ QUOTE ]
what would be wrong with the can?

[/ QUOTE ]

The can has vacuum hose connections on the end which might have broken off

welder79 · 03-09-2005, 04:08 PM

Just a few questions for some of your replies....

agnem - brake light is not staying on and what other stuff are you referring to?

bajagringo - why check electrical connections to injection pump?

82fordtruck - you mean I knocked a gp connector loose?

Here are a few other things that I might not have made clear....

the only place he was under the hood was on the passenger side fender well. The glow plugs sound is different kind of a whine. The only time they operate different is after the light goes off....usually I could here the plugs clicking and see the volt gage jump around but this clicking and jumping is faster....thats the only difference in gp operation. The circular object is about 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter and sits north and south and is about an inch or so thick from front to back. The vacuum hose slid onto a spicket on the back of this object.

Thanks for all your help!!!

cdnsarguy · 03-09-2005, 07:22 PM

The Tuna can as we call it is the Switch assembly, distributor module valve, it has an electrical plugin and a vacuum hose which goes to the vacuum manifold. The large Juice tin is the reservoir for the vacuum system and speed control. Check the large can for rust holes on the bottom too. Do the vacuum test on my gallery.....

Switch assembly, distributor module valve also called the Low vacuum indicator.

welder79 · 03-09-2005, 10:02 PM

what problems would a bad tuna can or juice tin cause?

cdnsarguy · 03-09-2005, 10:21 PM

With the hose broken off there will be decreased vacuum for braking and ancilliary systems also there should be a light for low vacuum for brakes if the vac pump cannot keep up.. With any holes in the juice can ........SSDD.

jrfastbanshee · 03-10-2005, 01:45 AM

I too have the glow plug controller doing the same thing. After the first cycle it clicks a whole bunch rapidly but the light in the dash never comes back on. Truck still starts ok. Could the controller itself be bad or could something just be unplugged? BTW...I know two gp's are dead.

cdnsarguy · 03-10-2005, 08:47 AM

Fiver..... 2 GPs out will change the whole operation of the controller.

If you have 2 or more bad GPs, the controller may not cycle at all.

Two problems that occur with the solid state ( 1987 to 1994 IDI engines ) GP systems. If a GP burns out ( circuit resistance goes up ), the controller cycles the GPs at a faster rate which doesn't let them get to max operating temp. If 2 or more GPs fail, the controller may not cycle the GPs at all ( very rapid or no clicking heard ). When you check the GPs, use an ohmmeter. A high resistance ( not necessarily burned out ) GP can cause circuit resistance to go up and the controller will then cycle the GPs too fast. You probably will not find this problem with a test light. Resistance spec for GPs = .5 to 1 ohm cold. Second problem. A poor controller ground ( black wire attached to valve cover stud ) will cause the controller to leave the GPs on longer, often damaging or failing them. If you are having mulitple GP failures, I would check closely the controller ground. Now the confusing part. Bad ground --> longer GP on time ( slower cycling ). Burned out GPs --> faster cycling If you have both situations, it may appear that the controller is cycling the GPs at the proper rate. Bad ground slows it up while the burned GPs speed it up ---> normal cycling. The system acts/sounds like it's working normally, but you have a hard starting concern.
DieselDon

Glow plug torque is 12 ft lbs, I always use antisieze on the threads.