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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 06-13-2007, 08:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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bushing for clutch and brake

I need to replace the bushing for the clutch and brake pedal cage under the dash....How is that done? Do I have to take the whole cage out to replace it? or is the whole cage have to be replaced???? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]

BTW Got my clutch repair done and is working and running great. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
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Ford F-350 Dually Crew Cab 5-Sp 7.3 IDI Centurion Conversion. No mods, rebilt IP and replaced injectors. Used as personal driver and pulling my RV camper.

Planned upgrades are a new and better turbo and larger exhaust pipes than the 21/2s that are already under the rig/ would like a 6 spd tranny but dont know if that is a feasable or smart investment yet.

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Old 06-14-2007, 08:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: bushing for clutch and brake

Dave,
Yes, the whole casting comes out- looks like a PITA (it is) but it's easier to work on the thing on the bench than standing on your head under the dash. FMC sells the bushing kit (sorry, don't have the P/N) but IIRC, was ~ $15 and includes the bushing and other minor wear items. Have fun!

Keith
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Old 06-14-2007, 10:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: bushing for clutch and brake

No to bad of a job. I found these directions on the site when I did mine. Thanks BigBopper


"used the follwing to remove the pedal box assembly for bearing replacement. BigBopper's directions were absolutely essential. Thanks!

Here are BigBopper's directions.

"
Here are instructions for pedalbox bushing replacement:

Disconnect clutch master cyl pushrod, wiring, 2-13mm nuts (outside firewall) and pull out into engine compartment.

Remove clip, bushings and brakelight switch/wiring from brake pedal, pull pushrod away from pedal.

Remove 4-15mm nuts(inside firewall) that retain brake booster to firewall. Pull brake booster/master cyl assembly into engine compartment, do not disconnect any lines (may have to remove airbox lid for clearance).

Remove the 13mm bolt on the upper steering u-joint, and separate it from the steering shaft, let it hang, while still connected to the firewall end.

Remove the two 10mm bolts that run vertically up into the dash.

The pedalbox should now come out with a lot of wiggling and cursing (the clutch master cyl has studs that stick through the firewall and come out with the pedalbox).

With pedalbox on the bench, disengage the clutch spring (less tension with the pedal depressed) and remove the 18mm nut on the clutch pivot end of the shaft (opposite end from the clutch pedal)

Mark the splines on the shaft and the arm to identify exact same location when reinstalling (centre punch works well).

Reinstall 18mm nut hand tight, and strike with hammer to disengage the spline.

Remove the arm and withdraw the clutch shaft from the opposite end.

Replace the bushings one at a time using lots of grease while installing.

Reinstall the clutch shaft, and pivot and torque 18mm nut.

Install clutch pedal spring.

Reverse all steps to reinstall.

Pedal box bushing kit Ford part #F3TZ-2C342-A this does'nt come with the clutch pushrod bushing. Not a bad job, just need to be patient.
Good Luck..."

Thanks again to all and good luck if you decide to do this very worthwile repair.
Jim"
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Old 06-14-2007, 11:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: bushing for clutch and brake

Thanks for the tip!
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