Can you re-use gaskets, and do you use an oil pan gasket - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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Old 10-04-2009, 08:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Can you re-use gaskets, and do you use an oil pan gasket

I have picked up a rebuild and I'm just not happy with the way it looks and I have no idea what was done to it.

Since I have it on an engine stand and there isn't any rush to get the project complete, I'm thinking of attempting to validate what was done.

The engine was cleaned during the rebuild, but not bead blasted.

So, I'm thinking I will pull the oil pan and possibly the heads/valve covers, waterpump etc...

So this is what I need to know...

Should I pull the pan just because the guy used a cork gasket? clean it all up and use RTV to ensure I don't have leaks? I know that attempting to re-use the cork gasket is probably not a good idea....

Can I re-use the valve cover gaskets?

Can I re-use the water pump gaskets?

Can I re-use the head gaskets if I pull the heads?

Is it all just a crap shoot and I should plan on using brand new gaskets due to the risks involved?
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I ended up calling about those motors.

The daughter told me that each motor ran on test stand for 10 hours, so, I would think you're OK with what's been done to them.

I've always discarded any gasket regardless of how long they've been on something. It just seems that after they've been crushed once, they'll never work good again even with RTV.

If you plan on using the truck a lot, and you feel more comfortable with better gaskets, then I would just replace them.

I feel the only gaskets you should replace are the valve cover gaskets and the oil pan. Otherwise I would leave well enough alone.
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Gaskets are pretty inexpensive for water pump, valve cover. Head gaskets are NOT reusable the same as the valley pan and they are expensive. If you want to redo the oil pan with the correct silicone that would be up to you. Info on R&R of these items is on my photo link.

Personally....I think you may be in over your head if you attempt the replacements.... my indicator is you do not now what gasket is or is not reusable. Plus you may void any warranty if you do touch the engine. My advice is use the engine as presented since there is a certain amount of mechanical knowledge required to R&R the items you are intending to replace.
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Old 10-04-2009, 09:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
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If a person knows how to install them correctly, cork gskts work just fine and last as long as anything else. About 90% of all gaskets used to be cork (many still are), but the choice is yours. I've used RTV alone in lots of applications and it works great too. And you're right, you never try to reuse cork.
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Can I re-use the water pump gaskets?
That's a big no.
Quote:
Can I re-use the head gaskets if I pull the heads?
That's a bigger no.
You CAN reuse the rubber type valve cover gskts. They can be reused unless they're really permanently crushed or dimpled in that type application--- valve covers, PTO covers, etc.
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and I'm just not happy with the way it looks and I have no idea what was done to it.
Was it rebuilt by a reputable engine rebuild shop, or some backyard shadetree guy, if the latter's the case and I had it in a stand, I'd definitely pull the pan and inspect and PlastiGage the rod and main brgs.
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Old 10-04-2009, 12:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Normally I wouldn't even think of re-using a gasket, the only reason I asked is that the engine has not really been used, but after thinking it thru, new gaskets are crushed when installed, so new ones only make sense.

I got the engine on the stand, drained th oil, pulled the pan and none were sleeved and a new rod was used, all pistons look orig, orig cam, looks like new bearings, rings....

I think I will just button it back up, drop it in and cross my fingers.
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Old 10-04-2009, 01:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I think I will just button it back up, drop it in and cross my fingers.
My thoughts exactly....
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Old 10-05-2009, 02:41 AM   #7 (permalink)
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as much as I abhor the use of sillyscum , most have found it to make a better oil pan gasket than the cork pan gaskets, usually the ultra gray or copper . If you think that you might ever want an oil temp gauge, now is the time with the thing on the stand,to remove the pan and order a weld on bung threaded for 1/4 npt to pop a gauge in and have it brazed into the bottom corner of the pan ( just thread a plug in if not going to use it right now)

Rubber valve cover gasket will reuse fine with a little hylomar on it
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Old 12-24-2009, 08:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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UPDATE

I went ahead and pulled the front of the motor after a closer inspection with light into block showed build up of shellac like rust inside the block.

Took off the water pump, plate behind pump, IP cover, and oil cooler.

Glad I did.

Water pump had lot of rust build up, the guy I bought this from NEVER touched this water pump it would have went quickly with all the rust getting ground up in it.

The motor had a build up of rust that looked like it might have gotten hot or something.

Really concerned, but other than cleaning out what I can and potentially placing a coolant filter in-line, what else could I do.

Not sure how big of an issue this is....

Needed to use the water pump plate from original engine as the one on this engine was rusted up and pitted so badly it would have leaked if I did nothing or would have leaked it i tried cleaning it up and re-using.

Got a new FORD water pump, plate seal, crank seal etc...

The coolant port on the front part of the block was CLOGGED completely, so I'm going to use the one which came originally on this rebuild assuming it is also clogged up.

I've flushed a running engine before, but is there any direction, steps I should take right now while this engine is out on my stand?

End result is, "you ALWAYS get what you pay for"......
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Old 12-25-2009, 08:51 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ferrellmedia View Post
I've flushed a running engine before, but is there any direction, steps I should take right now while this engine is out on my stand?
While you have it out you might try to hook lines up to it and flush it with just water in both directions to try to blow out any chunks. As you say, a coolant filter is a really good idea. You can get the parts from any international dealer quite inexpensively, and pick up the SCA-precharged filter while you're at it... Removing scale and rust is done with acid, you might try some citric acid which you can get at any health food store. Check to see if they have it in bulk, it's cheaper. You could also use borax, it's acid, and it's cheap. Make sure you flush it out well afterwards, but that's even more true of the magically toxic flush solutions you can buy at the parts shop. You might think to pressure-test it now, too; do it with water in, so you can see if it ends up in the oil.
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Old 12-25-2009, 11:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You maybe able to remove the thermostat, hook a water hose and an air line through a rubber cone to seal the T'stat housing, run water and then hit the air after the block fills up with water, this will blow a lot of the rust and crud out, and you might also find at this time if the block has any cavitation... hope this helps.
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Old 12-26-2009, 05:24 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Got a new FORD water pump, plate seal, crank seal etc...
You are aware of the correct bolt lengths required in the 2 upper and 2 lower bolts, so as not to destroy your IP. Paper info and 2 bolts should have come with the pump.
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Old 12-26-2009, 05:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Followed the directions on here an in the water pump I purchased from ford about the two top bolts, but they were exactly ths same size as the originals and they mentioned nothing about the "two bottom bolts"....

no idea what you mean when you corrolate the bottom bolts of my water pump with the IP damage, can you elaborate?

my plate had two "welded" bolts for the two bottom bolts in the water pump, but these holes didn't run all the way thru...
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Old 12-26-2009, 07:45 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Glass beading causes more problems than it fixes....

.
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Old 12-30-2009, 07:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Truck is done and running perfectly.

New water pump, fuel pump, re-timed, valley pan gasket, valve covers, bead blasted most parts, tanked the alum intake, repainted ford grey, looks friggin awesome!

Took only a few min to bleed the fuel system, didn't even have to recharge the batteries!!!

New tanks, both front and rear, new shocks....

Took my time, used lots of the posts on here, thanks to everyone for your help.
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