how do you get it off of the driveshaft? I bought a new one that came with everything, even the hanger... but I cant get the old one off. What am I doing wrong?
__________________ 1993 Ford F350 7.3L Turbo Diesel ZF S5-42, Divorced TS NP205, OEM locker/welded 2.5 ton Rockwells, 46" Michelin XML's, and some stuff too. http://www.supermotors.org/users/RAW_POWER
a 10' cheaper pipe on your breaker bar??? try heating the nuts with a roch (if you have one) or shoot some PB Blaster (can be baught at Big LOTS for $1.50 (small can)0 on the nuts and wait a few hours.... just try not to strip the nut/bolt, then you'll have hell taken the hanger off...............Gibson
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D.T.Gibson
1.830.203.1460
new newer rig: '05 greyish/balckish Ford F-350 XLT Lariat, Crew Cab, 6.0L PowerStroke, Fx4, Leather and all the electric goodies besides a moon roof, auto trans, 3:73's, leveling kit. SCT Looney Tune stacked with Edge Juice with Attitude, and 4" turbo back exhaust. 91K.... blew HPOP and headgaskets. In shop for now. maybe by the 8th ill have her back with new long block! sweet!
newer rig: late '99 Red Ford F-350 PowerStroke, 4x4, CC, 4r100 Auto Trans, 3:73's, Stage Coach Conversion, 4" DP to 5" up to 6" stack, aFe Stage II intake, DP Tuner 4pos chip, dFUSER oil crossover line, 10K mod, AIC controller, '06 18" King Ranch Wheels. 225K.
new rig: CUMMINS POWERED '95 F-350 XLT, crew cab, Blue & white, ZF5-speed, 4x4 with auto locking hubs, 4:10 gears, 283K miles, 3" DP to 5" exhaust, Auto Meter A-pillar 3-gauge pod with EGT, Water temp and oil pressure.
Normally it is pressed off and the new one pressed on.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
ok... does it slide off forwards or backwards? i didnt take the slip yoke boot off, but im guessing it will slide off that way towards the rear, right?
__________________ 1993 Ford F350 7.3L Turbo Diesel ZF S5-42, Divorced TS NP205, OEM locker/welded 2.5 ton Rockwells, 46" Michelin XML's, and some stuff too. http://www.supermotors.org/users/RAW_POWER
the slip yoke wont come off. Ive tried liquid wrench, torch, and even pulling it with the tractor (i know its not healthy, but its come to that) What can I do?
The yoke did move about 1.5 inches, then it stopped... whats wrong
__________________ 1993 Ford F350 7.3L Turbo Diesel ZF S5-42, Divorced TS NP205, OEM locker/welded 2.5 ton Rockwells, 46" Michelin XML's, and some stuff too. http://www.supermotors.org/users/RAW_POWER
I went through this. Save yourself some time and heartache. Just take it to someone with a press. I did the whole heat and cold thing to finally get it off 4 hrs later. Only to fine the new one also had to be pressed on. 15 min. at the shop, $20 and it was done.
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1990 F-350 Dually 4X4 CC Rebuilt Turbo and NEW 7.3L DAS engine, rebuilt rear diff, Reman E4OD Stage 1 injectors Stage 1 pump Baumann recal kit and TDC for E4OD dead trans again...
2004 F-350 4X4 CC 6.0 PSD
2004 Wilderness 320dbhs TT
After I tore the rubber out of the way, I used a cutting disc on my die grinder to notch the outside race, and split it with a hammer and chisel (race is brittle...). Then I ground a transverse flat on the inner race as a place to hold the chisel blade, and knocked it off with a hammer.
Used a nice clean piece of pipe with which matched the inner race, and knocked the new piece on quite easily.
my problem is the slip joint. the teflon coating on the inside is binding. took it to ford and they got it off after about 30 mins. I need a new slip joint.
__________________ 1993 Ford F350 7.3L Turbo Diesel ZF S5-42, Divorced TS NP205, OEM locker/welded 2.5 ton Rockwells, 46" Michelin XML's, and some stuff too. http://www.supermotors.org/users/RAW_POWER
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i was told it cannot be reapplied. but im sure it can, it just may be too difficult
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Rob - my first reaction is to never beleive the dealer on a subject like this....according to most of them, vehicles *can't* run with non-OEM parts....
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After I tore the rubber out of the way, I used a cutting disc on my die grinder to notch the outside race, and split it with a hammer and chisel (race is brittle...). Then I ground a transverse flat on the inner race as a place to hold the chisel blade, and knocked it off with a hammer.
Used a nice clean piece of pipe with which matched the inner race, and knocked the new piece on quite easily.
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Yep, that be how I do it [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
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88 F 250 7.3 Super Cab XLT Lariat4X4...Cream Puff
81 Corvette...Pampered
Harley Shovel 88" Show Stoper...WOW
BBC 468 Jet Boat...Gotta get Wet!
It's the Women that cost me the $$$$
they told me they couldnt do it, so i dunno if they are lying or not. if they would have said "well put a new yoke on for you though" i would have laughed at them
__________________ 1993 Ford F350 7.3L Turbo Diesel ZF S5-42, Divorced TS NP205, OEM locker/welded 2.5 ton Rockwells, 46" Michelin XML's, and some stuff too. http://www.supermotors.org/users/RAW_POWER