My first thought would be tracking bar bushings, some people also call the track bar a "pan hard". The bushings are inexpensive and easy to replace. The replacement bolts are 14mm. BTW, the track bar is the solid bar that bolts to the right hand side of the axle and to the center of the engine cross member.
1990 F-350 XLT Lariat CrewCab 4X4, 7.3L NA IDI, E40D, 3.55, Rebuilt injection pump and injectors, Manually controlled TC, Fleetguard DC4A, 277,000 Kms, Two tone brown. Completely stock. 9200# GVWR. ***In the works of being converted to a ZF-5 with Luk Clutch/ Single mass flywheel conversion***
1986 F-250 supercab 4X2, 6.9l, T-19B 4spd, 3.55LS,8800# GVWR 200,000 kms.
1983 F-250 supercab 4X2, 4.9l, T-18 4spd, 4.10, dad bought it new, dark teal metalic, 317,000 Kms drivetrain all original. 8800# GVWR.
2005 E-150 XL, 7 passenger, 4.6l v8, 3.55 LS, Navy Blue. 44,000 kms.
'89 F350 = Dana 60 solid front axle, which are known for developing the death wobble, tis caused by worn out bushings in the kingpins or something like that. Check on Pirate4x4 for an article about fixing the issue:
Replace the track bar bushings and all the spring eye bushings with new polyurethane ones. To remove the rubber pressed in bushings get a 1/2" drill and a 3/8" drill bit and drill out as much rubber as possible. I say a 1/2" drill because the rubber will really choke the drill down, you may burn up a 3/8" and a battery drill would be futile. Next you need a sawzall (reciprocating saw) and a good metal cutting blade. I saw through them aiming for the gap where the spring eye wraps around. Once cut a hammer and punch, chisel, or screwdriver are used to drive out the outer sleeve. Clean up the rust with some emery cloth and install the new poly bushings with some grease to avoid the squeaks.
Also check alignment, tie rod wear, tire balance, and tire pressure. I dropped the pressure down to 45 in mine once to soften the ride and the wobble came back. I wouldn't change the kingpins unless there is slack in them.
2wd trucks very rarely have steering dampers, I ain't seen none from the factory and there really ain't no aftermarket kit either. I'm sure something can be fabbed up tho, as there are folks out there who drive 2wd duallies with steering dampers.
I need to get a jack first I guess, would a tractor jack work with the bumper adapter or?
I use a small bottle jack, tis a 12-ton AC Delco thing and I remember I paid round $40 for it at the parts store - I put that under the I-beam next to the radius arm. For a vehicle of this size I wouldn't trust a bumper jack of any sort.
I located a Craftsman 12ton bottle jack on Ebay and bought it with credit I had on PayPal. I hope it will go high enough to reach the bumper. j/k
I agree with M.L.S.C. don't use the bumper..use the frame.You can always put 2 4X4's under the jack. Place them next to each other for a good base and if you need more, then stack the next two ACROSS the bottom two. I wouldn't go more than 3 high..I pulled (dropped) a Chevy 454 out of a'77 Winnebago (27') and had to jack the front end 29" off the ground for clearance. I used a 12 ton botle jack and stacked the 4X4's It was interesting to say the least...BTW when it was rebuilt/reinstalled you could get the front tires to lift high enough to make the steering loose!! Don't forget the JACK STANDS
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here