Changing IP and Injectors.

[Ctek]

I have been reading this forum for quite a while and have definitely caught the diesel disease.

I am going to try to change the IP later today or tomorrow. I picked up a unit yesterday at DIS here in dallas. I am experienced at the gasoline engines and after reading several threads on this subject feel that the difficulty level is probably not beyond my experiences.

My problem is starting the beast. I have read that the IP and injectors "could" be one of the major causes of my problem. I have already worked on the glow plug system and it seems to be working properly. When this motor does start I hear some fairly loud knocks for the first couple of revolutions. It runs well once started aside from burning a lot of oil which may be the rings or a problem with the valves which I will research at some point in the near future. It burns a gallon of oil about every 300 miles or so.

Just a few questions before I get started, any help would be greatly appreciated.

1. I understand that the IP can be changed without removing the drive gear, Is there a torque that the drive gear bolts should be tightened to? Should the bolts be thread locked?

2. How does the IP Drive line up with the drive gear? Is there a notch or dots that I should see?

3. Are there any tricks or a particular order of parts removal / replacement that makes this job easier?

Thank you all for any help in advance.

[aaklingler]

You don't want to remove the big gear housing with the tach sensor and probably with plug in. I think there is a pin in the ip shaft and it will only fit into the gear one way, check it out when your pulling it out. Your oil usage is really bad. Your not losing any on the ground? You need to check out your cdr or think about installing a rdt. Are you installing the injectors now too?

[Ctek]

I have recently replaced the cdr with Ford part (From Dealer). What is an RDT? And yes the injectors are now being replaced as well. Injector replacement looks pretty simple. There are a few drips on the ground, however, I am relatively sure from experience with gasoline engines that the few drips do not account for the oil losses that this one has.

[soulpatchfr]

i haven't done an IP yet, so i can't speak to that, but check your PM about it.
injectors ARE easy - sounds like you have that covered. be sure to get all the old copper washers out.
did you get a new return line kit? i wouldn't bother starting unless you have one - it's a given that your old caps will leak if you try to re-use them. at a bare minimum, new o-rings.

an RDT is a road draft tube - replaces the CDR & vents the gasses to the outside world. 2 pics in my gallery.

you lose 1 quart every 75 miles? that is a LOT of oil... where is it all going? are you burning that much?

[Ctek]

Got the new caps, return line kit, O-rings, etc. I have been reading these threads for quite a while and basically understand the process of the task.

Yeah, I do believe that it is burning that much oil - Not Good.

[aaklingler]

You don't need a rdt since you've just got a new cdr. You guys have some bad oil usage. I use about 1 quart every 500 miles with 315k on the motor.

[fsSnowboard]

hey, check your PM, i sent you a link to an article written by Mel that will help you replace the IP and injectors.