Hey everyone I have a 1993 ford F350 dually, and im sure this is going to be a long post but I have absolutely no idea how to change the rear brakes. I know its alot to ask, but can someone help me?
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1993 F-350 dually 7.3 IDI non turbo
All Stock, if you wanna give me some money to change that its cool
And while we're at it I would like to know the causes of oil in the brakes. I just cleaned mine out tonight, puzzled by it, it is a messy clean up job. And especialy the smell. It smells of gear oil rather than hydraulic oil.....I am going to change my brakes too one cool saturday and I would like some input as well....but before I do I want to address the oil problem.
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David and his Ford truck with a little motor and a big idea......
Ford F-350 Dually Crew Cab 5-Sp 7.3 IDI Centurion Conversion. No mods, rebilt IP and replaced injectors. Used as personal driver and pulling my RV camper.
Planned upgrades are a new and better turbo and larger exhaust pipes than the 21/2s that are already under the rig/ would like a 6 spd tranny but dont know if that is a feasable or smart investment yet.
1993 Dodge 3/4 ton Van Conversion 318CI
1978 Dodge Magnum XE T-top Classic 4BBl 400CI (Honeymoon Car)
1965 Dodge Polara 4 DR 383CI
well ill help you out
im gonna add idiot things too dont know your mechanical skill
1. remove wheels
2. remove brake drum (do not do with e brake on)
3. after sliding off brake drum there is the insides
4. you will see the brake pads
5. it should be four small springs total to remove
6. remove the back shoe first top and bottom spring
7. repeat for front shoe
8. reinstall rear shoe (do reverse order very important)
9. reinstall front shoe see 8
10. put on springs for rear shoe
11. springs for front shoe
12. brake drum back on
13. wheels back on
14. tighten lugnuts you should know the pattern go diaganoly
when you have removed the springs there is a metal bar. this is for the little pistons that push out aghinst the shoe to push the shoe into the drum. this will mess you up if youre not careful to do everything in reverse order of how you take it out.
one shoe will be wider make sure you have it where it goes (i think front but look first)
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
and ur problem is it a lube oil? or motor oil? or what?
some mechs will add a lube oil to brakes to stop them from squeaking. or it may be brake fluid?
you said smells like gear oil?
when and who serviced the brakes last? and did they ever squeak?
i think someone put motor oil in there to lube it up some butif its brake fluid you have a problem
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
I have a document somewhere for this and I'll try to find it tomorrow when I get back home. Most important thing to remember is DO ONLY ONE SIDE AT A TIME. That way you have a reference if you can't remember how to put it back together. It also ensures you do not get the self adjusters mixed up from side to side and have them loosening your brakes if installed on the wrong side. BTW the shoe with the longer friction surface is the rear or trailing shoe. I believe the reference to a metal bar is actually part of the emergeny brake actuator so be careful on this. Here is a link to some information that may be helpful (scroll down to the F250/350 portion.
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1988 F350 CC 4x4 SRW, 7.3 Banks non-wastegated turbo, C6 w/ HD torque converter, Tru-Cool 4590 trans cooler, Highjacker 'softride' 4" lift, pre/post luber, coolant filter, Racor fuel filter/separator, pyro and boost gauges, Progressive 16x8 wheels, 285-75x16 rubber, 3" downpipe into 4" straight pipe over the rear axle and into 5" SS tip. 1994 Alpenlite 33' 5th wheel trailer
and gowith the posted instructions they are about what i said but pics help a lot and i havnt done this in a while so ...
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
well thanks for taking a look and the door alarm can be fixed by reverse process
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
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