When I turn my Heater Fan on then mine drop below 12v and stays there while I drive the HWY. That is according to the idiot gauge, I know I need to install real gauges when I can afford it.
chuckster57, Howdy! Sorry I have not been on much. It is getting real cold and I am hurting a lot more. The care package was GREAT!!! My wife and son enjoyed most of it and I got the scraps, lol....The goats are mowing the front fenced area real nice. We miss you 3 and the fly catching cat!
Did you disconnect the batteries before testing? If you left them hooked up you'd be pulling your reading from the good battery.
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1993 F250 supercab longbed 4x4 with a quarter of a million miles. Stock 7.3, e40d trans and 3.55 rear gears. I got rid of my silly 6" exhaust stack in the bed and installed a thrush turbo w/side dump exhaust. The thrush gave it a little too much hush. Pro comp 6" suspension lift. Got a Meyer 7.5 foot snow plow, a flipper style gooseneck hitch, a cushion ride tag hitch and a 21,000lb fifth wheel hitch.
yeah first i was unhooking it every time i tested. still got same results. yesterday both batteries were up to 12.75 around lunch time. so hopefully today they'll be fully charged. def had some corrosion around my terminals. cleaned that off. hopefully that was it, slowing the charge from my alternator.
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
You can not immediately check a battery charge on shut down as you get what is referred to as a surface charge and not the true reading. If you turn on the lights for a moment sfter shutting down this will drain off the surface charge to give you a correct reading
You can not immediately check a battery charge on shut down as you get what is referred to as a surface charge and not the true reading. If you turn on the lights for a moment sfter shutting down this will drain off the surface charge to give you a correct reading
hmm didn't know that... thanks!
well tested the truck as soon as i got home from work (roughly a 10min highway drive).
With lights on and radio on the volt meter said 12.7 staying somewhat constant. when i turned the fan on high she quickly began to drop in voltage, about .01 volt per every two seconds. when i turned all electronics off including lights i was up at 13.4.
like i said earlier i had napa test both batteries and alternator and they said they're all good.
this sound like its my voltage regulator? or maybe something else is draining the power somewhere?
thanks for the help so far all....
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
Do you have any aftermarket electrical goodies on the truck? I know I used to have a problem with a meyer snowplow setup with draining my batteries. It pulled power even when not at use. Had to install a switch to cut the power so I wouldn't have a dead truck in the morning.
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1993 F250 supercab longbed 4x4 with a quarter of a million miles. Stock 7.3, e40d trans and 3.55 rear gears. I got rid of my silly 6" exhaust stack in the bed and installed a thrush turbo w/side dump exhaust. The thrush gave it a little too much hush. Pro comp 6" suspension lift. Got a Meyer 7.5 foot snow plow, a flipper style gooseneck hitch, a cushion ride tag hitch and a 21,000lb fifth wheel hitch.
Do you have any aftermarket electrical goodies on the truck? I know I used to have a problem with a meyer snowplow setup with draining my batteries. It pulled power even when not at use. Had to install a switch to cut the power so I wouldn't have a dead truck in the morning.
hmm.... i do have an electric plow pump. i never had a problem like this before tho. That will be the next test...
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
I had the same problems on my 91 and I installed an adjustable VR and turned it up to 14.2 at the battery and the slow cranking and dim light troubles are gone.
I also have a 100a alt with a HD rectifier in it.
Next up is a 130a 3g so I can charge the camper batteries at idle.
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91 F350 crew cab 4x4 7.3 ats and intercooled with cut down 2000 ps cooler, bigger turbo comp,head studs, torque cam, coated rockers , balanced. very good power.
pyro,boost and all stock guages ignored with mechanical real ones
Fugitive sandrail. type 4 2840 turbo fi, lots of fun
frustration is growing!
Yesterday fired the truck up and let it warm up. Got in to leave and i have ZERO charge from the alternator now. nursed it to Napa got a new volt regulator, now i atleast have charge coming from the alternator again. stock volt gauge is back to the left side of o in normal. (before all this it was at the l).
Anyways, i also unhooked my snow plow pump so that won't interfere with anything.
Now my dummy light won't go off (one that says amp w the battery symbol). It came on when the volt regulator went out.
even driving 5 miles to and from home depot the volts were still reading 12.83 while the truck was still on with only head lights on.
any new ideas? I hate going into the winter like this...
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
I also went with a 100 amp alternator in my truck. The alternators on these trucks like to overheat and burn up when you have bad batteries. Check your wiring per the instructions in a Haynes repair book. I checked the alternator wiring on my truck and everything pointed to the alternator. I had it checked at the local repair shop and they said it was toast. So I replaced the alternator and batteries and have had no problems.
yeah already had that stuff tested and replaced volt regulator. still having problems.
any other thoughts? what would cause me to be running around 12.5 volts? I see the alternator has a ground prong to it...should that be grounded too??
also, what actually kicks the dummy battery light? mine won't go off even when i'm near 13 volts.
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
hmm, mine actually isn't grounded by that post. mine is just grounded through its mounts to the engine block. wonder if this could have to do with it....
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7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 150k miles
-Custom: '92 interior; '04 Hydroboost brake system; Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure/Oil temp/Trans temp/Boost/Pyro meters; Banks Sidewinder Turbo into 4" glasspack and dual 4.25" Stacks
-Reman'd: Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter; Transfer Case; Water pump; Power Steering pump; Steering Box; Denso Starter
-New: Brakes; Engine seals and oil pan; Oil pump; RUST-FREE Cab and Bed
-Pro Comp "Holley Red style" electric fuel pump
-Dual 30micron to 2micron filter system... WMO WATF! Free Fuel!!
-3" Body Lift
-Fresh under coating on frame No more face full of rust under the truck!!
-16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's
-8ft snow plow
Even with extreme temps it should read 13 or 14 right away.
after the gps cycle off---
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
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