I'd cover anything electric in nature, alternator, glowplug relay and such on the fenderwell, etc. I always liked to warm the engine up (not hot, just warm) so the water evaporated faster when you were done. You probably want to avoid spraying your belts/pulleys with the degreaser. Also, make sure your valley pan is clear and capable of draining through the plug at the back. When I got my truck the valley pan had a hole rusted clean through it.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
If you do it when its been run down the road, it could hurt it but i have trouble believing just a 5, or 10, minute warmup is going to create that much heat in the IP.
Dousing any kind of metal with cold water when it's super hot can cause it to become brittle and/or crack. That's why I said just to do it when warm...probably let it idle until it's 120-140 F if you have a temperature gauge. You don't want to run it down the road and get your exhaust manifolds super hot either. With the engine idling it'll never see above about 200 degrees exhaust gas temps.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
Totally off topic, when I was in High School I had a GMS Jimmy that started to over heat due to a bad thermostat. I just stopped every ten miles and hosed it off at gas stations. It never quit it just kept on trucking. The trip home was about 150 miles.....
Point being it may not do anything but that one chance that it might would tell me not to do....your just cleaning the engine bay not something truely important!!!!
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1994 F350 XL Crewcab 4x4 SRW 7.3 NA
Dana 60 Sterling 10.25 3.55 285/75 16 Dayton Timberlines
TC lockup Mod
Pyro Installed!!!
TO DO: Boost guage, Tekonsha Voyager Brake controller and Turbo when I acquire one!!!
You won't hurt anything if you're careful. My reccommendation would be to pull the ground cables off while you are cleaning it all up. Wait until EVERYTHING is dry, especially anything electrical, then hook the cables back up.
Just remember, you could throw a toaster in the bathtub if it's unplugged. As long as you wait until it's dry to plug it in, you won't have a single problem. It's not the water itself that hurts electronics- it's the water AND electricity applied together that cause problems.
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1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
--motor/trans sold--
2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg
1997 Dodge 3500: 2WD Cab & Chassis, 12V Cummins, 47RE Automatic, Dana 80, 194,000mi. Parting out.
1989 12V VE Cummins out of Chevy C60? at the machine shop...going into the Ford.
I've found Simple Green works great for cleaning up engines. I always do it cold. Just not worth chancing tearing something up, even though the bottom of the engine gets cold spray on it everything you run in the rain , snow, slush etc, the injection pump can get upset if the outer case gets quickly cooled while it's innards are hot
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'92 F-350 7.3 5 spd, Crew Cab dually,ATS turbo, 4" Exhaust, Air seat, Western Hauler bed. My Gallery
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dakotajeep</div><div class="ubbcode-body">your just cleaning the engine bay not something truely important!!!! </div></div>
Go ahead and spray a good stream of cold water on that hot injection pump and then tell us how important the IP is to your wallet! Guys do NOT clean these motors while hot!
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Regards,
Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA '90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 400K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, 10 oz. Bars Stop Leak and No ELC!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: weaselwanka</div><div class="ubbcode-body">some one told me to use diesel fuel to clean my engine. It has been working for me for years now, and is cheaper then the Gunk. </div></div>
Great idea if you want to pollute the groundwater at your house! Oh you are from Canada, that doesn't matter up there! [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif[/img]
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Regards,
Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA '90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 400K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, 10 oz. Bars Stop Leak and No ELC!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Snotzalot</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dakotajeep</div><div class="ubbcode-body">your just cleaning the engine bay not something truely important!!!! </div></div>
Go ahead and spray a good stream of cold water on that hot injection pump and then tell us how important the IP is to your wallet! Guys do NOT clean these motors while hot!
</div></div>
Wow yo TOTALLY misunderstood what I said. And for being a jerk in the process!!! A little coutesy goes a long way. I am not saying you cant hurt anything!!! Mypoint is that if it may hurt something by warming it up why chance it. Point is that you dont HAVE to clean the bay but it nice to do it.
For example: Truely important=replacing dead battteries
Truely important=replacing bad injectors
Not Important=Cleaning the engine bay
So my point it is dont do something if their is a chance that it could break something else ESP if it not necessary.
Was I clear enough now?
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1994 F350 XL Crewcab 4x4 SRW 7.3 NA
Dana 60 Sterling 10.25 3.55 285/75 16 Dayton Timberlines
TC lockup Mod
Pyro Installed!!!
TO DO: Boost guage, Tekonsha Voyager Brake controller and Turbo when I acquire one!!!
Linear Mode
