I have a 1994 F250 7.3IDI w/ Turbo and 5sp. My clutch has about 10 inches of travel and my slip point is pretty much at the floor board. I was wondering what is the best way to go about adjusting the clutch on this type of trans/truck. Any advice/suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
This is a good question since I just had the same problem. I removed the slave cyl, fork and lubed everything. The fork needed lube on both pivot points and the throwout bearing contact points. Also was able to get some lube on the tranny input shaft where the throwout bearing slides. After getting it all back together my clutch was much easier to operate and now the clutch engages a little further from the floorboard.
Upon further investigation it appears that I have to much wear in the clutch peddle (cross over) bushings and I'm going to replace those and all should be good.
My truck is like yours except it's a 1993. It's got 114K original miles on it.
1993 F250 7.3IDI Turbo (factory) 2X4 ZF5 4.10 Diff, Floating axle, Extended Cab Long Bed ZeeDee running boards, 172K miles, Second Owner
When Ford introduced the hydraulic clutch master cylinder in 1984 in their pickups, a rash of clutch release problems starting showing up. The area where the master cylinder is bolted to the firewall is prone to flexing when the clutch is depressed. This can get so severe that it will crack the firewall. If the firewall moves when the clutch is depressed, the volume of fluid to the slave cylinder is decreased which reduces the travel of the throw-out bearing, which will not allow the clutch to release completely. The only repair for this condition is to reinforce the firewall area. A brace for this is available from Ford dealerships. This is a sheet metal part which must be screwed in place. Another style brace is available from many clutch shops. It is made of steel plate and does not require any drilling. It simply mounts behind the master cylinder.
Pedal to Master Cylinder Link
A poor release on a Ford F series pickup with a hydraulic clutch can often be caused by a small link connected to the end of the clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft. This is the link that pushes in the master cylinder rod. The link is simply pressed onto the end of the knurled pedal shaft. Over time, this link will work loose on the knurls and will fail to push the rod into the master cylinder far enough to release the clutch. To check for this condition, remove the pushrod locking clip and slip the rod off the link. Raise the clutch pedal to the top of its travel and try to replace the rod over the link pin. If the pedal must be lowered in order to replace the rod, the link has slipped and must be replaced. Do not try to simply tighten the mounting nut. It will not work. The link must be replaced.
David and his Ford truck with a little motor and a big idea......
Ford F-350 Dually Crew Cab 5-Sp 7.3 IDI Centurion Conversion. No mods, rebilt IP and replaced injectors. Used as personal driver and pulling my RV camper.
Planned upgrades are a new and better turbo and larger exhaust pipes than the 21/2s that are already under the rig/ would like a 6 spd tranny but dont know if that is a feasable or smart investment yet.
1993 Dodge 3/4 ton Van Conversion 318CI
1978 Dodge Magnum XE T-top Classic 4BBl 400CI (Honeymoon Car)
1965 Dodge Polara 4 DR 383CI
Sorry to all the loyal 7.3 guys, but I traded my '91 7.3 in on a 2002 F250 Ex cab V10 4x4. SCT Xcalibrator2 with tunes by Powerplay Performance. 285/75/16 Toyo M/T's. Took a long time to get used to the ping-pop of a cooling catalytic converter...LOL.
'85 Bronco swapped up to a 302 4bbl from the 300 I6, NP435 4spd, NP208, 32x11.50x15 Radial RVT's, Soon to be 6.9 turbo powered.
86 F350 Cab&Chassis with a dump bed. 2wd 6.9 and 4 spd tranny. No mods to engine.
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