i tried to bleed the clutch cylinder and somehow lost the prime on it.cant get air or anything else out of the bleederand the pedal goes to the floor and stays,i have to pull it up by hand and when i push it down it stays. have tried pumping and push down and then open bleeder.it blew air out the first time i opened it??? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
It takes two people, one to pump clutch pedal and one to open slave cylinder bleed valve while holding clutch pedal down. It also involves lots of swearing and a few other thing. Some bleed out fairly easy and other may take you days, We've got one we replaced both master and slave cylinder and we got all the air out of the line but still haven't got it to move the slave cylinder rod yet, Got busy with other things and it's been setting a couple of weeks now, maybe it will bleed out when we get back to it. I have a friend who played with one for a couple of days and finally tilted one side of the pickup up about 3 feet and left it overnight, It bled out the next morning.
1988 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 auto C6 now ZF5
1990 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 auto E4OD. now ZF5
1992 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 ZF5
Try this: get some small rubber tubing, like what is used for vacuum line. Open up the bleeder and put the rubber line over it, then put the other end of the line into a clean bottle. Fill the bottle with a little brake fluid so there's about 1" in the bottle.
Now work the pedal up and down the same as if you were bleeding it. With this setup the system can't suck air in when you let off, since the hose is submerged in fluid. All it can suck back is fluid. You just need to get enough fluid to flow down through the system that it pushes any remaining air all the way out of the hose, where it will rise out of the fluid in the bottle.
This works good for bleeding brakes too.
1997 Ford F350 SRW 7.3L PSD
1985 Ford Ranger 2.3L 5 speed
1966 Mustang 200 I6, auto, 4 wheel disk, power brake retrofit, Corvette master.
Former vehicles, 1994 E350 7.3L IDI, 1985 International 1654 rollback, 6.9L IDI, (2) 1994 Ford E350 7.3L IDI, 1985 Ford F350 DRW 6.9L IDI, 1985 Ford F350 wrecker 6.9L IDI.
*dual ASE Master Certified, Automotive, Medium & Heavy trucks*
Owner / operator, Patriot Automotive, N Ridgeville OH
I followed a post from one of our memebers "cdnsarguy" to bleed my clutch cylinder.
I took the slave off the bell housing and removed the hydraulic line and filled the slave with fluid through that hole, it takes a little while to do this and you need to make sure you get all the air out. Place it on your work bench or what ever and keep the fill hole elevated.
Get a piece of clear tubing that will fit over the end of the hydraulic line.
Get a small clear plastic bottle, I used a 1 litre soda bottle.
Hang it under the truck with 1 inch of hydraulic fluid in it.
Make sure the clear hosing can reach the bottom of the soda bottle.
Fill the master cylinder and start bleeding it, you'll be able to push the pedal down by hand while kneeling next to the truck and you'll be able to see when all the air is out, don't forget to add more fluid to the MC as you go on.
Once you have all the air out you want to check your MC's fluid level and when it's about half full grab your slave keeping the tube port slightly elevated, pull the clear tube off the end of the hydraulic line. There will be a some fluid coming out, slowly put line back into the slave cylinder, this is a little messy but the fluid coming out will also push out that little bit of air out of the tube port of the MC.
This should get it done.
It took me longer to type this than to do the job
Stefan, 2000 F 250 CC 4x4 PSD SB, Weld Wheels, 35" BFG AT's, Line-X'd, Ride Rites, Auto Meter Guages, Leer Shell, Rancho Lift & Chipped,
1993 F 350 SC 4x4, Banks Sidewinder, Eagle Wheels, 35" BFG AT's Truck, Hunting and Fishing Pics
heres another way to bleed it,fill the resivior take the rubber boot out of the screw on lid and put about 25psi of air pressure on the vent while your second person pumps the pedal then opens the bleeder and lets the air out. got it working.thanks all for your help. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
My '93 clutch master cylinder bleeds internally, it just takes quite a few pumps on the pedal for complete bleeding. I filled the clutch slave with fluid and bled what air I could befor installation. I then filled the master cylinder and put the cap on and pumped the pedal by hand until I got it to return by itself-pressure in the system. I topped off the fluid level for about a week afterwards. The next morning I had very little clutch pedal for the first few pumps but good pedal ever since.
As a footnote, I was replacing the Raybestos slave cylinder I installed a few months ago. The clip never did engage the bellhousing right and the cylinder would bsck off after a few engagements of the clutch. It was binding and causing a hard pedal. I ended up getting a slave from Ford-same manufacturer-AP, but the cylinder was larger than the Raybestos and the clip engaged the first time.
Guy's, I've got to tell you, using a power bleeder, it can be done by your self, in relatively short time with a lot less frustration. It is some of the best $50-60 I have ever spent to work on my truck.
I have the universal power bleeder, as my ford isn't the only vehicle i need to keep running, one of these days I'll need to get some of the other adapters. Some other sites, might have these cheaper than the manufacturer, I can't remember where I bought mine from.
'91 F350 CC,7.3NA w/K&N,E40D(rebuilt--way too many times), 2WD,3.55 rear end,new IP,new u-joints & carrier bearing, new rotors, new calipers, new drums & hdware, added Auburn limited slip unit (2/8/05)w/valvoline synth 80-90w, new batt.cables,new window motors,new radiator & hoses, 500K, (new injectors)+ mi (now 678K miles)& still Truck'n. If I can fix it, it ain't broke, I'd rather do it myself.(yes, I add,stanadyne, lucas or power sytems fuel additive in every tank, w/maybe 1-2x year full big bottle dose split between both tanks). New tires & pretty wheels, front end rebuild 3/17/05. Bilsteins added 6/12/05. New motor mounts & valve cover gaskets (9/06.)Future hopes finally fixing my electric door locks & adding remote entry/alarm system. http://community.webshots.com/user/jl_mendoza