Long ago I read a post about this but cannot find it. My clutch does not return to the top of it's travel. I seem to recall that there is a piece that compresses in line with the pedal that can be replaced and correct the problem fairly cheap. Any one know what I'm typing about? Got a part number? Thanks
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Steve
Eric -> '92, F250, 7.3l IDI, extracab, longbox, one ton spring in the rear,Borg Warner 1356 transfer case, 12500lb winch. 280k km. Since purchased in June 2003 repairs include: ball joints, tie rod ends, all u joints, water pump, radiator, brake calipers, brake pads & shoes, rear drums, front wheel bearings & seals, rear axel seals, replaced transfer case, rebuilt rear differential, replaced bent drive shaft, replaced drive shaft support bearing, K&N air filter, dual 2.5" exhaust.
I fixed mine using a heim joint and it works perfectly.
I cut the round end off the clutch rod them threaded it with a 3/8x24 die. The heim now has almost 2" of adjustment and holds perfectly with a lock nut. Total cost of the fix was under $8 if I remember correctly.
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1994 F-350 4x4 Crew Cab, 7.3L I.D.I. turbo, 5 speed. So close to the Mexican border that on a quiet night you can hear the splashing of the "swimmers" and the snoring of the Border Patrols
For some reason I thought there was a "rebounding squashable" link in the system that did not rebound after a while. What is a heim link? It sounds like something you do when someone is choking.
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Steve
Eric -> '92, F250, 7.3l IDI, extracab, longbox, one ton spring in the rear,Borg Warner 1356 transfer case, 12500lb winch. 280k km. Since purchased in June 2003 repairs include: ball joints, tie rod ends, all u joints, water pump, radiator, brake calipers, brake pads & shoes, rear drums, front wheel bearings & seals, rear axel seals, replaced transfer case, rebuilt rear differential, replaced bent drive shaft, replaced drive shaft support bearing, K&N air filter, dual 2.5" exhaust.
Climb under the steering column, and study the clutch linkage, once you know and understand the linkage AND see the "LINK" than you will know what it is for and why it is a good idea. It is hard to describe in words, but one picture is worth millions of words. If you know what I mean?
While you are under the column, look for worn parts. I will guess that you will have 2 bad parts, one will be the clutch master cylinder, the 2nd will be the part that operates the clutch master cylinder.
Good Luck
BB
By the way beside clutch pedal travel, any other problems?
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
These parts wear down as I found out when shifting was getting hard to do without grinding. Only place to find the clutch lever (25 bucks found only at Ford stealership) was at Ford. Replace that, it is pressed on the rod by the 1 nut. Now your clutch slave you might do the modification or replace that. Whichever you prefer. Then after all that is done put some graphite powder on it every time you change the oil and itll last you a long time without wear,,,,,
But I think you are refering to a diffrent problem which is the clutch returning to the top....Check the spring......
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David and his Ford truck with a little motor and a big idea......
Ford F-350 Dually Crew Cab 5-Sp 7.3 IDI Centurion Conversion. No mods, rebilt IP and replaced injectors. Used as personal driver and pulling my RV camper.
Planned upgrades are a new and better turbo and larger exhaust pipes than the 21/2s that are already under the rig/ would like a 6 spd tranny but dont know if that is a feasable or smart investment yet.
1993 Dodge 3/4 ton Van Conversion 318CI
1978 Dodge Magnum XE T-top Classic 4BBl 400CI (Honeymoon Car)
1965 Dodge Polara 4 DR 383CI
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But I think you are refering to a diffrent problem which is the clutch returning to the top....Check the spring......
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That's what I was thinking... on mine, theres a spring w/ roller that rides in a groove on the pedal's arm and the other end mounts to a cheesy little wafer thin steel bracket down below the steering column. The captive end of the mount broke off on mine... considered pulling it all out to repair (looks like the cast support & everything else would need to come out first), but after making a replacement *bronze* bushing to replace the extra cheesy OEM nylon bushing at the slave rod, it now has more than enough pressure to return correctly.
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