cold idle advance - Diesel Forum

graytrain · 10-10-2006, 04:26 PM

hey all~
anyone know why when I plug in my cold idle advance I lose power going to my cold idle solenoid(fast idle)???
is this a low voltage condition?

thanks
mike

cdnsarguy · 10-10-2006, 05:46 PM

Do you have power to all three wires with the key on, cold engine. The FIS and CTA are on the same wire, should have 12V from the engine temp switch behind the upper coolant manifold until engine temp reaches 112*F.

You may have a dead short in the CTA solenoid. Have removed the IP governor cover at all, if so you may have an isolation washer in the wrong place...... If YOU did not take the cover off, or this problem has existed for some time. PM me yor email addy.....I will send a TSB.

OkieGringo · 10-11-2006, 12:59 AM

The ORDER of connection may be wrong.
To check the connections to the IP, here's what you need to do. Turn on key to 'run' position. Check the main wire that comes from the loom to the IP (injection pump), does it have juice. The wire runs to the FSS (fuel shutoff switch) connector first, then to one side of the Cold Engine Switch(two-prong sensor, located in hole behind the upper radiator hose connection). When the engine is cold 'juice' will pass thru the sensor, if the sensor is good, and go to either the FIS (fast idle solenoid) or the CTA (cold timing advance), then to the other. If the engine is cold and sensor is good it will be 'closed' and allow 'juice' to get to the FIS plunger which holds the idle speed up. If FIS plunger is working, but not pushing up far enough, use a 1/4" wrench to turn/extend it until the idle speed is ~1000 rpm. The CTA (cold timing advance) near the spider/distribution end of the IP 'advances the timing' to make engine run smoother/run cleaner/less smoke. The Cold Engine Switch opens/shuts off the electricity to the FIS and CTA after engine reaches 112 degrees, and engine speed/rpm will/should drop to ~650 rpm. If these three items are working correctly, when you go to start engine, hold the throttle pedal at least 1/2 way to floor to allow the FIS plunger to 'set' itself. Use a test light to check for electricity/juice at each of the solenoids, FSS, FIS and CTA. Let me know if this helps. Good luck, OkieGringo

graytrain · 10-13-2006, 10:26 AM

Yes, cold engine I have power to all 3. The temp switch seems to be working (test light verified power)
I havent' pulled the governor cover off due to the IP being rebuilt not more than 10K miles ago! I can see how an isolation washer in the wrong position would cause this. I have had this problem for a while. I dont know if I would necessarily condemn it to the pump but it seems logical at this point. The pump shop did say that my CIA in my old pump was wasted!

PM sent CDN and Thanks guys.
Mike

DSBlack · 10-13-2006, 01:56 PM

Does anyone ahve a part # for this 2 pronged switch? is it a ford item, or local parts place?

cdnsarguy · 10-13-2006, 02:10 PM

The engine temp switch is known as.......

E8TZ9E939A $48.00 sell $36.00

SWITCH FUEL INJ SYS

BuilderBob · 10-13-2006, 02:18 PM

Mine broke 200,000 miles ago,
Do you really need it?
I don't need it

ve7khz · 10-16-2006, 08:45 PM

Hi Mike,

Did you get this figured out? I have exactly the same problem. It started out intermitent but is now not working at all. Winter is fast approching and I will be doing return line seals (again) this week and want to fix this while I am in there.

CDNSARGUY, hi, how are things? Any chance you could email me the TSB you have?

I have measured the voltages described above and only have 12V going to the IP. Only see 2.5V on the temp switch, both wires, so the switch is fine. What does the IP do to the voltage once it gets inside there? I could sure use a wiring diagram for this, then I could figure it out myself.

Cheers all,

Paul