Decided to keep my 90 f250 2wd

[scoobydew]

Well I almost bought an 08 f350 crew 4x4 since I've been having problems w/ the 90, but after not having payments for a couple of years decided not to start again. So now the problems w/ my 90 that I need some advice to make it almost back to new. He has many miles don't know exactly burning 1 to 2 quarts of oil every 5k miles between oil changes

1) He started to run rough and blowing white smoke, so I'm guessing the injectors are going bad, but which ones, how do I tell, or is it something else.

2) Changed the glow plugs 6 mos. ago w/ autolite now it's hard to start again should I change them again going to use motorcraft this time. but found some on ebay that they say burn hotter than stock. Live in southern AZ so it doesn't get that cold and when its plugged in he starts right up.

3) Have to change brake booster

4) Have to replace fuel pick ups since I'm keeping it just haven't done it yet

5) When I was towing w/ it cabover, and trailer it got hot the needle was just past the L in normal so I changed the thermostat and now I don't get any heat it takes for ever

Sorry for the long post but since I'm keeping the beast I want it running better and not leave me stranded like he did before when I was coming back form the dunes. Thank goodness for roadside asst.

[Mitchalvin]

1. could be injectors or injector pump. Could be other items also need more trouble shooting to pinpoint. To check injectors crack the lines with a flare nut wrench and see if it changes the tone or how the engine runs change in this case means that the cylinder is running.
2. Yes change the glow plugs, check each one as it comes out you may have lost a tip and bent something causing problem 1
3. The brake booster is the same for any f-series truck of the same year, if you can get the entire setup off a ambulance package truck, e or f series, use that as it is hydroboost which does not require a vacuum pump and is more powerful boost system.
5. Did you use a Motorcraft of International Navistar thermostat, if not you will need to replace it with one. As far as the stock gauge reaching past the L in normal that may be as little as 220 degrees. My 83 will sometimes peg the factory gauge at 220 and sometimes at 220 it will read just past the m. You do have an overheat light in the Glow plug and Water in Fuel idiot lights that turns on at 240 degrees, this is the upper limit of safe operation for these engines. Heating up while pulling trailers up hills is normal for a Diesel truck.

[tanbuddy]

On my truck, when i checked the factory temp gauge the first block was around 100, the first line in normal was 140, the n in normal was 175 and in the o/r range it was around 195. it seems the thermsotat opens up there, then the truck runs in the n/o range just driving around empty in 40 degree weather

[scoobydew]

Ok so I will change the thermostat again that's going to suck it wasn't fun the first time oh well and I will look into the brake booster thanks for the help

[Mitchalvin]

I forgot to mention not to use the autolite glowplugs as they last about one cycle and are more prone to lose tips than other brands seem to.

[drinkypoo]

I've got autolites and for all I know my truck has always had autolites

But if your glow plug controller fails they will burn up

Eventually I'll put in Bosch/Beru... But I got a million projects that want money

[lexxxel]

Originally Posted by Mitchalvin

3. The brake booster is the same for any f-series truck of the same year, if you can get the entire setup off a ambulance package truck, e or f series, use that as it is hydroboost which does not require a vacuum pump and is more powerful boost system.

I didnt realize the ambulance package had a different brake booster. How is the hydroboost acheived if it doesnt use the vacuum pump?

[NH2112]

Originally Posted by lexxxel

I didnt realize the ambulance package had a different brake booster. How is the hydroboost acheived if it doesnt use the vacuum pump?

The power steering pump provides boost, and also charges a small accumulator good for 2-3 power-off boosted applications.

[drinkypoo]

Also standard on F-Super-Duty, available as an option on other models.

It's become a relatively common thing. 2000+ Astros use it...

[big red 94]

What are the symptoms of a bad booster. I may need one as mine hisses on depression of the pedal. and sometimes my pedal is hard to push and others it is extremely touchy meaning my front wheels lock up.

[NH2112]

What you're describing could be due to either a bad booster, bad vacuum pump, or a vacuum leak. But *generally* when the pedal is hard but your HVAC controls work, the booster is the culprit.

[lexxxel]

Originally Posted by NH2112

But *generally* when the pedal is hard but your HVAC controls work, the booster is the culprit.

I've been having an issue at low idle where the brake pedal goes hard, i only see it when parking really, other times seems fine. I ordered a vacuum pump thinking that was the issue. Original pump is still on the truck. But I haven't changed it yet (too cold). It's crazy that the price of pumps in canada is over $500 but online they're like 80 bucks from the US. That's one i dont get.

But maybe the pump isnt the issue and its the booster.... my hvac controls always seem normal

[lexxxel]

Originally Posted by NH2112

The power steering pump provides boost, and also charges a small accumulator good for 2-3 power-off boosted applications.

so, if i find a scrapper ambulance, what pieces would I be looking for to add onto my truck? Just the accmulator? Or is it also a larger ps pump?

[NH2112]

You'll need the power steering pump, hydroboost (the accumulator is part of it), and perhaps the master cylinder. You'll also need the correct hoses. Inspect the booster carefully, they tend to leak around the pedal pushrod. If you see ATF or p/s fluid running down the inside of the firewall, find another booster.