I;m having a small promlem that seems to be turning in to a large problem. I have an 89' F250 7.3IDI and i can't get it running now. It was starting fine, run excellent. I was traveling on the interstate for about 3 hours and switched to the auxiliary tank and run on that for about another 45 minutes. we stoped for a little break and headed back out. as soon as i pulled back out on the road, it acted like i lost fuel pressure from the lift pump, running out of fuel. i had about another half hour to go on my trip so i just legged it along. Next morning I checked my situation out. One of the plastic return caps was split. Put a new o-ring kit in bled the system nothing. I do remember when I switched tanks the amp meter showed a pretty good draw. anybody have any suggestions, could the tank selector be bad? Thanks
Your description seems to include details that are not revelent, and may be missing details that are.
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lost fuel pressure from the lift pump
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Did the truck stop?
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legged it along.
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Was it running?
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the system nothing
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Does it turn over?
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amp meter showed a pretty good draw
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Amp or volt meter? Do you have a charging problem?
Maybe you can re-state!!
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
Biulderbob, sorry bout the shortness of details. After I got back out on the road and it seemed to lose fuel pressure while [legging it] back to camp it did shut off about 3 times. It would shut off and it took about 5 min to get going again. When I did the o-ring kit and bled the system the truck would not start. had fuel at 7 injectors, figured it would pick up #8 once it started. Tried to start for about 10 minutes, at the last minute it fired roared to about 2800 rpm blew out a very large cloud of white smoke and shut down [couple of times]. Ihave an electric fuel pump on the truck, has good pressure. the volt meter dropped to 8-9 volts when I switched tanks, dimmed all the lights.
Switch fuel tanks to one with over 1/3 full, depress the schrader valve while operating the fuel pump to expell any air from the system. Start engine after fuel is present......
Make sure the fuel pump is working on the start sequence too, some folks only have FP when in run position..... wiring problem.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] both tanks are 1/2 full at present, tried both tanks same results. Also noticed today that the fuel gauge is up on full on both tanks and i know they both are half full. I have the pump on a relay with the exciter wire on constant hot when cranking
How are the batteries right now.....if you can count the engine rotations they either need charging or the starter is failing.
Have tried plugging in the block heater for an hour or two. When attempting starting are you cycling the GPs until the WTS light goes out, then cranking for 5 seconds with your foot 1/2 way to the floor.
Some members have tried a hair dryer pointed into the intake during start attempt any intake of hot air helps.
Is there power to all the connections on the IP key on, does the FSS click with power on and the connector removed/installed. Check my gallery for IP info.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
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