Diagnosing a Bad injector? What brand/where to buy from? - Diesel Forum

DLSF350 · 07-06-2005, 07:05 PM

With 134,000 miles on the truck and a noise that sounds like preignition on a gas motor (not on all cylinders maybe 1 or 2) and a little wetness on the return line from #1 cylinder (driver's side forward); I am probably in the market for a new set of injectors (and maybe an IP but one $tep at a time). Is it worth considering diagnosing and changing only the bad injector(s) or change them all at once given the mileage. Is there a more accurate way to test them in the motor besides cracking open the fuel lines? The truck has had a steady diet of clean diesel with Stanadyne for the last 20,000 miles that I have owned it, but the PO did no maintenance. The truck is a 1993 non-turbo with a 12/92 build date (door sticker) so that means "E" code injectors right?? Brands: Stanadyne, Delphi, Ford/Motorcraft(reboxed stanadyne?) or DPS Stage 1s (are they rebuilt?). As long as I get the installation parts (copper O rings and the return line kit) is there a difference as to where I buy them from or just shop for low price on ebay or mail order?? Last Q: I am thinking about a turbo, will G (turbo) injectors add too much fuel for a naturally aspirated tow motor with a big exhaust?? Thanks, Dan

DSBlack · 07-06-2005, 08:11 PM

Man, at that many miles, I would change them all, if you are sure that is where the noise is from. I would go with stage 1 injectors and a PYRO so you can watch the temps. If you are really planning on a turbo, and you are going to repalace them, I would upgrade to the best now.
I still want a set for mine, but I have good ones and can not justify it right now.
Even if you go with the less expensive ones, I would get them from someone who stands behind their product. They may all work, but some better than others...

welder79 · 07-06-2005, 08:58 PM

I have roughly 150k on my truck and as far as I know the injectors have never been touched...anything I should look for as far as faulty injector symptoms?

jdkline · 07-06-2005, 09:33 PM

Low fuel mileage, low power without symptoms of loss of compression, excessive fuel smoke, rapping noises on the engine's top end. I wouldn't care too much about which injector code as long as they are all compatible. Dieselcare.com, MWFI.com, and dieselpage.com(DIS) all have excellent prices on them, and have good reputation. New is better than reground.

tim94f250 · 07-06-2005, 10:57 PM

I don't like to bad mouth anyone, but, a couple guys here have had a bad experience with rebuilt injection pumps from MWFI. It wasn't just one pump, but three pumps, all with the same symptoms. Just a warning, Tim

huskyhauler · 07-07-2005, 03:21 AM

i agree with that statement tim. i have heard ALOT of problems here recently. one i am sure was a bad govenor, the other, i KNOW was assembled with the driveshaft 180' out, and the last, well i am unsure. i buy mine from Dieselcare, and with around 15 or so now installed without problems, i will continue to use them here in my shop. i have installed both Reman as well as new injectors. new ones run in the $250-325 range for a set, and reman run about 75-125 for a set. remans usually last 100-125k or 3/4 the pumps life. the new injectors usually run around one pump life cycle or 150-200k. i usually install remans, as the customers usually have a freak attack about the 350 bill for injectors only. i have found in the past, usually you need to reseal the injector returns at 100-125k, and from there it only takes an extra 10-20 minutes more to change the injectors out..

Kurt

DLSF350 · 07-07-2005, 02:51 PM

Thanks for the info. One of my friends suggested doing one side of the motor at a time (run the motor between doing the two sides) to keep it the FI system from air locking. It makes sense, any input?? The stage 1 injectors look to be turbo specific and are too much for a naturally aspirated motor; and they are twice the price of good "standard" rebuilds that have been bench tested (which is something that you don't get with new ones!?!). Billy @ dieselcare was very helpful and had the best prices ($129)including an IP pump ($275 for a late model pump). The sales person at MWFI insisted I had a powerstroke (1993?) and told me to go back and check the engine tag. I didn't want to ask the differences between "E" vs. "D" vs. "G" injectors if I have to argue with someone about which engine is in my truck. Lost sale. Last Question - is there a difference in the quality of return line kits? (a few $ for a better kit that is trouble free is worth it) Is the ford kit precut or are they all universal?

jdkline · 07-07-2005, 09:48 PM

I would just buy one from whoever you're buying injectors from. That bit about insisting a 93 is a PSD is retarded. the 'stroke wasn't even available until about midway through the 94 model year. they need a reality check. The key thing with the return kit is you want to use rubber orings actually designed for diesel fuels(as in the return kits sold at all of these online shops mentioned) not the ones from the hardware store if you expect them to last very long. Then lube the rings with some white lithium grease before installing. Another member advised me of this. I don't think I would want to do one side of the motor and then the other while running it in between. In any case you're probably going to have to bleed the fuel ssytem, so why not do it all in one shot instead of 2 steps.