I first checked this site out a few months ago when it looked like I was going to get a Powerstroke truck for my company. We went with a gas F250 instead, but are now adding a diesel F350. It's an 89 with a non-turbo 7.3 that was put in it 5 years and a couple thousand miles ago. I think it's an IDI engine but don't know enough about it to be sure. We'll probably pick it up this week and take it straight to a garage owned by a relative of my business partner for a little TLC. It isn't much to look at but I've driven it and the old girl still has some life in her. The engine turns over slow but once it gets started it runs and pulls like a champ. Obviously I don't have to worry about a dreaded turbo rebuild, but are there any other issues common with this engine? We won't be putting too many miles on this beast due to it's age but are there any tips to keep it running well when we need it? Thanks for any advice on my first oil burner!
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My beasts:
1989 F350 XL Jasper 7.3 IDI non-turbo. Auto, RWD, dually, 12ft box, ugly as hell! We call it Big Ugly.
1999 F250 XL 5.4 Triton. Auto, 4x4, my "pretty" truck.
First thing it to make sure you have SCA (supplimental coolant additives) in your cooling system. These engines have relatively thin cylinder walls and have a tendency to cavitate over time. There are tons of posts on this forum about the topic. GP's, definately get some Motorcraft glow pluges, they will be ZD-9's, and will say Beru on them. Autolites/Bosch/ or other generic brands tend to go bad quickly and can even swell on the tip and get stuck in the cylinder meaning pulling the head, or crushing the piston if you try to pass it. If you ever need head gaskets done, don't have the heads shaved, they are already at their limit from the factory.
As for the motor turning slowly when starting, make sure all contacts on batteries, starter, and the relay (should be above the passenger wheel well in the engine compartment) are good and clean. Make sure the batteries are well charged and I think either 850 or 880 CCA is recommended for these trucks. If that doesn't solve it then you may need a new starter, they get tired some times, and if you can count the revolutions as its cranking then it aint fast enough.
Make sure the WTS light comes on for the glow plugs when its cold, should be about 10-15 sec. Before you buy it ask to come over and start it when its COLD, not ran over night, that will give you a good idea how it behaves in the mornings.
Air intrusion is quite common from what I have seen here on the forum, and usually is a problem with the return lines to the fuel tank, there is a return fuel line kit to solve that problem.
I've also heard people using the oil filter from a PSD instead of the regular one for our pigs. It takes an extra quart of oil in the system but gives you more filter media.
Those are some of the basics that I know. Congrats on buying a reliable diesel as your workhorse! It won't smoke a PSD or Cummins off the line, but it will keep you running on the road for a long time, plus its easy and relatively cheep to work on. Mine has 214K on the original motor and it's still strong.
Good luck, Brandon
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1990 F250 XLT Lariat, 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 rear, Twin I-beam, NA 7.3L IDI. 218K miles Custom CAI, new canopy.
1982 VW Rabbit 1.6L Diesel, needs new clutch set and some TLC. 45mpg here I come!
Oh almost forgot, the tranny .....dun dun dun. With the E4OD (4 speed auto) it has been known to be plauged with problems. It really is a good transmission....after it has had all the updates to it to strengthen parts, valve body, and such. Make sure the Torque Converted isn't slipping on lock up, hold constant throttle when you are above, say, 45mph (TC should've locked by then) and lightly tap the break at the same time just enough to set off the brake lights. You should see a jump on the Tachometer as the brake lights are set off. When you see the jump let off the brake. The jump is the TC unlocking, I guess it's linked to the brake lights to indicate slowing of the truck. Just make sure the fluid isn't burnt smelling or looking.
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1990 F250 XLT Lariat, 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 rear, Twin I-beam, NA 7.3L IDI. 218K miles Custom CAI, new canopy.
1982 VW Rabbit 1.6L Diesel, needs new clutch set and some TLC. 45mpg here I come!
Thanks for the advice Brandon. The trans was rebuilt when the new engine was put in and it shifted well when I drove the truck so it *should* be good to go. Either way I'm getting it flushed along with the coolant and oil. I figure it's best to start with fresh fluids so I know what schedule the truck should be on.
My business partner thinks the engine could do with a tune up so I'll keep in mind what you said about the GPs and make sure I get Motorcrafts. The seller mentioned that one of the batteries isn't very strong so we may just end up replacing it before the winter if it doesn't do well on the charge test. Hopefully that's the problem and not the starter. The seller agreed to a fairly low price so we'll have the money left over for any small fixes the truck needs. The only other thing that we know has to be done are new front tires (the current ones are beginning to bulge). Beyond that the truck seems ready to work.
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My beasts:
1989 F350 XL Jasper 7.3 IDI non-turbo. Auto, RWD, dually, 12ft box, ugly as hell! We call it Big Ugly.
1999 F250 XL 5.4 Triton. Auto, 4x4, my "pretty" truck.
+ 1000 on the battery connections, I have been dealing with issues related to that problem all week, and now that I have replaced the battery cables and connectors my issues have all gone away.
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1990 F-250 4x4 7.3 IDI 5 speed manual.
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