How hard is it to drop rear tank. Mine has a leak in it and the pickup tube won't suck off the bottom of the tank. Can I run arround on the front tank while I fix the back.
Yes you can. Dropping the tank may be more of a challenge if you have a trailer hitch. I have a parts truck right now that I can't get the tank out of because some numskull welded the hitch to the frame.
I changed my rear tank last year. It's a PITA. You have to remove the spare tire carrier and the skid plate and the filler hose connections, then the strap bolts. You can then carefully lower the tank enough to disconnect the fuel lines. The tank should then come out without too much trouble. Installation is basically the reverse. It can be a major PITA to reconnect the fuel lines to the new tank. There is just no room between the frame and the tank to get your hand in there to make the connections, and they have to be right or you end up with air leak problems. It can also be a struggle to reconnect the filler tube, but on a flatbed it may be easier.
Good luck with the repair. It's easier with a second pair of hands for sure.
Bruce
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1990 extended cab, 4X4, five speed.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
i did mine about a month ago. Having a second person is a HUGE help! I lucked out b/c I have a body lift which made disconnecting and connecting the lines easier. Make sure you get as much diesel out of the tank before you drop it!
Oh what fun! NOT!!!! Been there, done that, got the friggin tee-shirt. Take my word for it, if it's leaking it is due to pin holes that have rusted thru and it's almost impossible to get them all brazed up. Yep tried it, didn't work for long. Go here www.mtscompany.com and order a new plastic tank. And the broken pickup tube is a plastic part that rots and breaks off and you'll find it in the bottom of the tank. The unit is a 'Ford Only part' and costs about $110.00 [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]. Go here: http://www.parts.com/partlocator/ind...?siteid=213787 after selecting your make and model, you need to look under "electrical".
While you've got the tank down you might want to do "the filler neck mod".
Take the filler neck out and remove the black hose that goes into the tank. It's stubborn but it will come off. I believe a one inch hole saw (remove the pilot bit first)is needed to gut the filler neck and throw the internals away. You'll want to cut into the inner part of the filler with a reciprocating saw to make pulling it out easier. You'll have to work it a bit but it'll come out eventually. A quarter inch piece of copper tubing needs to be brazed or epoxied to the top of the filler neck after drilling a hole in it. The tubing must be above where the end of the nozzle sits in the filler during fueling. Next you'll need to get to the top of the tanks. The rear tank is dropped by removing the skid plates that hold the tank up. Loosen the top straps to take pressure off the plates. The rollover valve in the top of the tank has a breather hose attached to it. Take the valve out and remove the guts. Drill it out as far as you can and then re-install being careful not to drop it in the tank or push it too far in the gromet or you'll be dropping the tank to fish it out. Get a new piece of 1/4" fuel line to run from the rollover valve to the fitting brazed on the filler. That is your new breather. Wire tie the hose into place and you should be good. If you need to drop the tanks all the way be sure to get(buy, rent, steal) the 'fuel line disconnect tool' or else the couplers aren't coming apart! This "mod" is a hassle/pain-in-the-arse, but worth it. This 'MOD' makes filling the tanks soooo much easier/faster. Have fun, BajaGringo.
I dropped mine this summer with a Reese hitch on. Its a little challenging but very doable. Spray the bolts to the straps with PB Blaster before you start and give it some tome like an hour to penetrate. That alone eliminates a great deal of hassle.
The hardest part I had was prying it past the hitch. Everything else wasn't too bad. I replaced mine with a Transfer Fow 45 gal. I srill have the old one here if you want it and it was in good condition. Let me know.
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[b]Gunther X [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] 1988 F350, CC, DW, 7.3 IDI, non--turbo (for now),C-6, 4:10 rears, 141,000, new IP & injectors, 4" exhaust. US Gear Dual Range Aux Trans Overdrive, Headlight Mod, Coolant Filter Mod, Transferflow 45 Gal. Aft axle Tank (Have to wait a lot longer now for those UMM Necessity stops, Ouch!). Phantom Pyro.
Recently repainted (all Ford paint fals off). Pull 37' Phillips steel horse trailer GVCW 17K-21K. MPG 7-8 w/trailer, 10-12 no-trailer (sucks)
I had that same silly problem, so I just redid the whole truck fuel system removed both tanks plumbed them with new returns #8an
and #10 male feeds welded on the lowest part of tanks.
eliminated that silly tank switch, and now my system works all by itself, just using the front tank sending unit to know when I run low on fuel.
there is a tee at the bottom of the fron tank that keeps the front tank full via the rear tank higher than front tank.
no fuel issues no air in lines and definatlly no volume issues
Javier
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1987 F250 dually 7.3 banks sidewinder C-6 GV overdrive 3.55 lots of factory eliminated mods
i/e rear hung single battery, re engineered fuel system, no more tank switch, electric holley blue pump, return style regulator, #8 fuel line feed and return, both tanks, Amsoil 5w30HDD with full flow / bypass filters, Amsoil of course.
Evans coolant and Amsoil conical air filter. last oil drain 2003 65k ago. I add about 8qt per year with filter change. rear main likes to leak parked only.
I did that once because it had pinhole leaks. The tank moved past the hitch all right but I had a tough time getting it around the mufflers. I cleaned it real good with a wire brush on a drill, and spread JB weld all over it. I had my younger brother reach up there and reconnect all the lines when I put it back in. (His hands were smaller. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img])
That was at least a year ago, and it hasn't leaked since.
Brock
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1986 F250 4X4 ext. cab w/1990 7.3L IDI and ZF5. 210,000 miles (I think and hope) and counting.
1986 F250 4x4 turbo diesel (doesn't run, parts truck, $400)
1996 Dodge caravan, free, 235K, and a bad engine.
And my parents 1993 F150: 5.0L, automatic, 2wd that I drive because I can't drive mine.
Click to see The Wonder Truck. Titled so by those who are in awe of its massive powers and adapted by those who can't figure out why it still works.
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