I feel like a dummy but I cant find the right socket to get my IP separated from the timing gear, tried searching for a 16 point socket online and am having no luck
It says 12pt. 9/16 " I've never heard of 16 pt either. You could go to any major auto parts store for this socket.
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab,LB, Dually,
1997 Jayco fifth wheel 323RKS,
Robins 16K dual axis hitch
Apillar pod with:
Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost
Hypermax Cowl induction
Flex-A-Lite 26K tranny cooler w/fan
K&N air filter (we'll see in a million miles)
Tekonsha "prodigy" brake control
Thanks fo straightening me out, I'd never heard of one either(16 pt socket) but I found it on *************** heres the quote " Proceed by removing the 5/16” bolts holding the timing gear to the injection pump. These bolts require a 16 point socket or open end wrench" and as I'm trying to get this blasted thing out working in the driveway by light of the porch light holding a dying mini mag in my teeth working mostly by feel so I can pickup its replacement without paying a core charge while im at work tommarow my mind is kinda spinnin about 3 million miles an hour. shew... thanks
mark
LMJD has it right 5/16 12 point for the IP to timing gear bolts.....use blue locktite when replacing them.
Chuckster has it right for the IP to timing gear housing bolts...... BUT that wrench is way too expensive...... check my photo link for what I made that does the job just fine.. a little grinding on a 9/16 (end) X 5/8 old style starter wrench.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
" Proceed by removing the 5/16” bolts holding the timing gear to the injection pump
I believe that's wrong. Like posted, the bolts are 3/8" if I remember right, but have "oddball" small 12 point 5/16" heads and take a 12 point 5/16" socket (3/8 drive). A 5/16" 12 point socket in 3/8 drive is not too common but Napa has them in stock usually and not too spendy. Like Cdnsarguy and Chuckster post, the bolts holding the pump housing to the gear housing are 3/8" with normal 9/16" wrench-size bolt heads.
You guys as always were spot on with all the advice, it was a 5/16 12 point, fortunately way back in the day I bought one of those stupid craftsman tool sets that was chock full of 12 pointers and I dug out the box and tada... the IP is bolted to the gear, cover plate replaced, fuel lines replaced, still gotta get those blasted nuts tightened on the bottom side, hook up the electrics and replace/fix my accelerator cable, stupid plastic piece under the spring broke, and hopefully I'll be running
Those 3 5/16 head bolts require a torque of 25 lbs on them and yes, use some blue loctite too. Those other 3 9/16 nuts that hold the pump to the gear housing are kinda tuff to reach. Most here make their own wrench by heating, then bending and finally grinding to fit. Sears has a close fit wrench but needs some fine tuning....
__________________
89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
IT STARTED AND RAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAY!!!!!!!!!!! I took sarguys tip and ground down the box end of a 9/16 I had to remove about 1/2 the thickness, I didnt bend it cos Im out of fuel for the OA and I didnt feel like firing up the forge for 1 little bend, and it worked just took a few more turns... So onto the 5/16 12 pointers, I didnt torque them as I couldnt find a torque value for them in my haynes books, I just went to where they were "comfortable" and I didnt use any locktite, do you think I shouild pull the cover and torque and locktite them before I run the truck again?
I would. It would suck big time if they vibrated loose and started tearing things up. On another post I thought I read use threadlocker blue..don't know the torque value
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab,LB, Dually,
1997 Jayco fifth wheel 323RKS,
Robins 16K dual axis hitch
Apillar pod with:
Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost
Hypermax Cowl induction
Flex-A-Lite 26K tranny cooler w/fan
K&N air filter (we'll see in a million miles)
Tekonsha "prodigy" brake control
I had mine apart about two years ago... didn't use locktite. didn't really think about it. No problems yet but after reading this post that'll prolly be in my future plans once the truck is back on the road
__________________
7.3 IDI F-350 4x4 1990 with '92 interior. Custom exhaust - Banks Y Pipe, Flowmaster muffler and Dual 4.25" Stacks. Reman'd Heavy Duty E4OD and Billet Converter, Reman'd Transfer Case. New Brakes, New engine seals top to bottom. New rustfree cab and bed. Fresh under coating on frame. No more face full of rust under the truck!! 16x10 Eagle Alloy 186 with 33's and 3" body lift. Only 90K on the odometer ***currently one step away from finishing body rebuild.***
1997 Mustang GT 4.6l Ford Racing Side Exhaust strait piped, Rockin Alpine/JL Audio system... Preparing for a 5.4l D.O.H.C. swap with a T-56!!!
I didnt use any locktite, do you think I shouild pull the cover and torque and locktite them before I run the truck again?
I never do either, and have had my pump off about 3 times total. If you tightened them resonably "normal" by hand torque for a 3/8" bolt you shouldn't have any problem. For some reason recently on this site, every bolt that's removed has to be locktited. Unless you get the film of oil out of the gear threads, the locktite doesn't do any good anyway.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.