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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

       
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Old 08-04-2008, 08:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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dumb question

I feel like a dummy but I cant find the right socket to get my IP separated from the timing gear, tried searching for a 16 point socket online and am having no luck

thanks
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Old 08-04-2008, 09:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I thought it takes a 12 point 5/16"? Never heard of a 16 point.
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Old 08-04-2008, 09:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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one tool looks like this

Injection Pump Mounting Wrench 303-227 - 303-227

It says 12pt. 9/16 " I've never heard of 16 pt either. You could go to any major auto parts store for this socket.
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Old 08-04-2008, 09:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks, serves me right.

Thanks fo straightening me out, I'd never heard of one either(16 pt socket) but I found it on *************** heres the quote " Proceed by removing the 5/16” bolts holding the timing gear to the injection pump. These bolts require a 16 point socket or open end wrench" and as I'm trying to get this blasted thing out working in the driveway by light of the porch light holding a dying mini mag in my teeth working mostly by feel so I can pickup its replacement without paying a core charge while im at work tommarow my mind is kinda spinnin about 3 million miles an hour. shew... thanks
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Old 08-04-2008, 10:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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LMJD has it right 5/16 12 point for the IP to timing gear bolts.....use blue locktite when replacing them.

Chuckster has it right for the IP to timing gear housing bolts...... BUT that wrench is way too expensive...... check my photo link for what I made that does the job just fine.. a little grinding on a 9/16 (end) X 5/8 old style starter wrench.
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Old 08-05-2008, 09:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
" Proceed by removing the 5/16” bolts holding the timing gear to the injection pump
I believe that's wrong. Like posted, the bolts are 3/8" if I remember right, but have "oddball" small 12 point 5/16" heads and take a 12 point 5/16" socket (3/8 drive). A 5/16" 12 point socket in 3/8 drive is not too common but Napa has them in stock usually and not too spendy. Like Cdnsarguy and Chuckster post, the bolts holding the pump housing to the gear housing are 3/8" with normal 9/16" wrench-size bolt heads.
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Old 08-05-2008, 08:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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thanks

You guys as always were spot on with all the advice, it was a 5/16 12 point, fortunately way back in the day I bought one of those stupid craftsman tool sets that was chock full of 12 pointers and I dug out the box and tada... the IP is bolted to the gear, cover plate replaced, fuel lines replaced, still gotta get those blasted nuts tightened on the bottom side, hook up the electrics and replace/fix my accelerator cable, stupid plastic piece under the spring broke, and hopefully I'll be running
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Those 3 5/16 head bolts require a torque of 25 lbs on them and yes, use some blue loctite too. Those other 3 9/16 nuts that hold the pump to the gear housing are kinda tuff to reach. Most here make their own wrench by heating, then bending and finally grinding to fit. Sears has a close fit wrench but needs some fine tuning....
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Photo of the modified wrench?
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Finally

IT STARTED AND RAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAY!!!!!!!!!!! I took sarguys tip and ground down the box end of a 9/16 I had to remove about 1/2 the thickness, I didnt bend it cos Im out of fuel for the OA and I didnt feel like firing up the forge for 1 little bend, and it worked just took a few more turns... So onto the 5/16 12 pointers, I didnt torque them as I couldnt find a torque value for them in my haynes books, I just went to where they were "comfortable" and I didnt use any locktite, do you think I shouild pull the cover and torque and locktite them before I run the truck again?
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I would. It would suck big time if they vibrated loose and started tearing things up. On another post I thought I read use threadlocker blue..don't know the torque value
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Old 08-07-2008, 08:57 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I had mine apart about two years ago... didn't use locktite. didn't really think about it. No problems yet but after reading this post that'll prolly be in my future plans once the truck is back on the road
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I didnt use any locktite, do you think I shouild pull the cover and torque and locktite them before I run the truck again?
I never do either, and have had my pump off about 3 times total. If you tightened them resonably "normal" by hand torque for a 3/8" bolt you shouldn't have any problem. For some reason recently on this site, every bolt that's removed has to be locktited. Unless you get the film of oil out of the gear threads, the locktite doesn't do any good anyway.
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