Within the last 2 months I have replaced the VSS, Tach Sensor, the FIPL Sensor (and calibrated it), and replaced the fluid/filter. Yesterday at highway speeds the tranny slipped and my engine began revving. The tranny caught and the O/D light began flashing. The light continued flashing for about half an hour without anymore slipping. Every time I got off the highway the tranny was shifting erratically with the O/D light flashing.
I have a code reader, but have not been successful pulling the codes. The reader says it is not for 1994 vans, but I was told it worked for IDI's but not the PS engines. Can anyone provide any assistance? Thanks!
Make sure you have the accelerator to the floor the entire time you are pulling codes. the process is
1. Plug in reader (Leave turned off)
2. Turn key on (don't start)
3. Press and hold accelerator to the floor (or use a chicken stick propped up against the seat like I do)
4. Turn on code reader
5. hit test button
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1993 Ford F-250HD XLT w/tow package (8,301 - 9,000# GVW) Single Cab, 7.3L IDI Non-turbo, 4x4, trac-lock 3.55 rear end, rebuilt E4OD with shift kit, ESE kit, and tranny cooler, ice-cold a/c, 245,000 miles.
Slipping out of gear at highway speeds is indicitive of a mis-adjusted or defective MLPS (Manual Linkage Position Sensor) otherwise known as a neutral safety switch. (The switch tells the trans that it is in neutral at the wrong time).
It's a regular parts store part, if it has never been changed in the life of the van you will need to swap the connector housing which is included with the new sensor.
I used the Wal-Mart code reader on my 94 IDI van and it worked fine.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
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Slipping out of gear at highway speeds is indicitive of a mis-adjusted or defective MLPS (Manual Linkage Position Sensor) otherwise known as a neutral safety switch. (The switch tells the trans that it is in neutral at the wrong time).
It's a regular parts store part, if it has never been changed in the life of the van you will need to swap the connector housing which is included with the new sensor.
I used the Wal-Mart code reader on my 94 IDI van and it worked fine.
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Where is the connector for the reader? I am looking in the passenger compartment under the dash. I find a connector the looks correct, but it plugs into a buzzer that goes on when the door is open. I don't think that is it. The instruction manual says it is usually under the hood. Thanks for your input! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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Connector should be under the hood on the drivers' side, if I recall correctly.
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Right. On my '92 the connector is under the hood, mounted on the fender near the hood spring on the driver's side. I think there are actually two connections required.
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1992 F-350 Crew Cab ,7.3 IDI, 4x2, E4OD, Dually, white, pretty much stock, in California.
1986 F-250, 6.9 IDI, 4x4, C-6, Banks turbo, awaiting engine transplant, in Maine.
Gandalf is my truck. Gandalf is named after Gandalf in "The Lord of the Rings". He is the Wizard with mystical powers.
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Slipping out of gear at highway speeds is indicitive of a mis-adjusted or defective MLPS (Manual Linkage Position Sensor) otherwise known as a neutral safety switch. (The switch tells the trans that it is in neutral at the wrong time).
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Slipping out of gear at highway speeds is indicitive of a mis-adjusted or defective MLPS (Manual Linkage Position Sensor) otherwise known as a neutral safety switch. (The switch tells the trans that it is in neutral at the wrong time).
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I agree, that's the problem.
[/ QUOTE ]If I were to buy a new switch, would I need to adjust it like the FIPL Sensor (TPS)? Thanks.
I do believe the later model have a fixed MLPS, once installed it is set using the cable and detents. I do know Okie gringo told me his was an adjustable and needed the C6 tool, but an older year truck........
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
Well I found the connectors for the scanner, but I can't get any codes out of the computer. The indicator on the scanner is telling me that it is hooked up to the computer, but it just shows 000 and doesn't change. I have followed all the directions and followed their troubleshooting. The only thing I didn't do was get the engine to operating temperature before getting the codes. I don't see why you would need to do this to retrive the codes.
Check your fuses. I know on newer trucks the diagnostic port gets power from the same fuse as the cigarette lighter. I do not know if this applies to our trucks.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
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Well I found the connectors for the scanner, but I can't get any codes out of the computer. The indicator on the scanner is telling me that it is hooked up to the computer, but it just shows 000 and doesn't change. I have followed all the directions and followed their troubleshooting. The only thing I didn't do was get the engine to operating temperature before getting the codes. I don't see why you would need to do this to retrive the codes.
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Had the same problem, when and got a 24" rachet extension and propped it against the front seat to hold the accelerator down (Must be held down after turning key on and before turning tester on, and must be held down the entire length of the test). This did it for me.
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1993 Ford F-250HD XLT w/tow package (8,301 - 9,000# GVW) Single Cab, 7.3L IDI Non-turbo, 4x4, trac-lock 3.55 rear end, rebuilt E4OD with shift kit, ESE kit, and tranny cooler, ice-cold a/c, 245,000 miles.
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Well I found the connectors for the scanner, but I can't get any codes out of the computer. The indicator on the scanner is telling me that it is hooked up to the computer, but it just shows 000 and doesn't change. I have followed all the directions and followed their troubleshooting. The only thing I didn't do was get the engine to operating temperature before getting the codes. I don't see why you would need to do this to retrive the codes.
[/ QUOTE ]
Had the same problem, when and got a 24" rachet extension and propped it against the front seat to hold the accelerator down (Must be held down after turning key on and before turning tester on, and must be held down the entire length of the test). This did it for me.
[/ QUOTE ]I held it down before turning ignition on. I will try holding it down after I turn the ignition on. Thanks for the info.
Linear Mode
