Alright, bought the truck, which was supposed to have a rebuild transmission, and drove it 2 weeks without realizing the O/D off light was burned out. Shifted poorly, a little hard and hunted for gears.
Pulled codes, found 62 and 14.
Tested FILP sensor, Speed Sensor, Tach Sensor, and Manual Lever Position Sensor (MLPS), all tested good, greased all connectors with dielectric grease). Tested ground circuit and resulted in good ground (no voltage differential), and tried the flasher test to disable the torque conver lockup (functioned properly).
Checked tranny fluid, smells fine, looks fine.
Replaced cooler lines, lost some fluid, but put 2 quarts back in. (in all honesty, didn't check beyond the 2 quarts until later.)
Drove it lightly for 2 days, found the transmission computer still 'confused' never could decide when to lock up the torque converter, shifted late, and very sloppy (slid into gear with 200-300 rise in RPM between shifts)
I replaced the o/d switch and cleared all codes (code 62 and 14).
Experienced code 62 repeatedly. (no code 14 anymore)
Checked fluid, and found 2 quarts low, so added 2 more quarts.
Continued to experience code 62.
Added lucas transmission additive.
Postponed error 62.
Disconnected batteries for 30 minutes to clear PCM (powertrain control module)
Drove very very light on the accelerator only up to 55mph for 3 miles. (seemed to shift 'better', still soft, and after warming up, seemed to start in 2nd gear, or wouldn't fully engage when taking off.)
Several Hours later took it back out for a drive, shifted softly into all gears correctly.
added an additional dose of lucas transmission additive.
Threw code 62 again, going up an incline. Stopped, reset PCM, and continued to drive, but turned off o/d. No codes thrown for 1 hour.
The fluid smells a little burnt, kind of like brake material or clutch material.
My thinking is that, 1. it does actually shift, 2. it shifts better when the PCM goes into 'safe mode' or 100% line pressure mode, 3. there must be some problem in the valve body, electrical circuit, or solenoid pack causing this problem. Also the tires are suppoesed to be 265/75/R16 but they have been replaced with 235/85/R16. How much of an effect does this have?
Please help with any suggestions! I feel like an idiot...
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1993 Ford F-250HD XLT w/tow package (8,301 - 9,000# GVW) Single Cab, 7.3L IDI Non-turbo, 4x4, trac-lock 3.55 rear end, rebuilt E4OD with shift kit, ESE kit, and tranny cooler, ice-cold a/c, 245,000 miles.
Try adjusting the FIPL a little higher(0.2 vdc/adjustment). Go down, if up isn't working better. The FIPL is the ONLY user adjustable sensor on a stock vehicle. I've got a Baumann TCS unit and can adjust EVERY facet but I still need a valve body. Will probably order it tomorrow. OkieG
The tire bit is non issue since you went to a narrower profile tire. It might be an issue if you had 305 85 supper swampers on it. I've got a ZF 5 I might part with. lol. Sorry, otherwise I cant help you. Im not in the know when it comes to the particulars of an automatic.
Shawn
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Custom farming in NWIA.
tractors:
706,806,1206,1256,5288,7140mfd.
vehicles:
-1985 Ford F250 reg. cab,blue w/ extra clearance lights,4x4,T19 4 gear,3.55's,Banks sidewinder w/ K&N, 3.5" straight pipe, 2 gauge pillar, and 3 below dash. Pioneer cd player & a pair of 12" RocFos subs shoved behind seat. Old school tuned Midland 23 channel CB w/ PA and 13 foot whip antenna, Solara DSC marine-band and 4 foot midland antenna hooked too a Delta diamond plate tool box, Aluminum rims,hide-a-ball, RoadMaster drop rear bumper,air gate, and stainless stick on's on the bottom body line.
-93 Ford F250 7.3L IDI Turbo Diesel, ATS upgrades, 4" exhaust and 5" stainless tip, 5 speed, 4wd, 3.55's, maroon on silver, American Racing rims, custom built air gate, DMI rear bumper, extra clearance lights.
-61 Ford Falcon Futura, 289HIPO, T10 4 speed, 9" rear w/ cleveland locker and 3.55's, linelok, Granada front discs.
Mosin Nagant's, K98's, K-31's, Enfields, AK's, and SKS's.
How do you like the Baumann unit? I'm ordering mine for my Chevy swap. I saw there are 2 other companies that make them but don't seem to be better, just more bells and whistles.
Doug
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1988 Chevy CC DRW w/a currently being installed:
1990 7.3L IDI w/Banks Turbo
E4OD w/Baumann Transcommand
US Gear Exhaust Brake
4.10 Chevy Diff
I use to have a similar problem on my 92. I put a TC manual lock on and it worked out good for me. When locked it shifts nice and crisp. Now I actually know when the TC is locked by a small LED light even if the manual lock is not engaged. I usually engage it after it shifts into 2nd or 3rd. You just have to make sure its not locked when you come to a stop or you'll stall the motor [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]. I used Guzzle's design http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/tclock.html
and for the $20 I spent at least I know when shes locked. Also heres something related from www.txchange.com/e4od.htm
Through the years there have been many updates to the controller assemblies used in Ford vehicles. None more so than the E4OD controller used in the 7.3 Diesel applications.
The most current group of updated controllers replaces the previous version which had been known to cause DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) #62 - Torque Converter Clutch Slippage even though all other areas of the lock-up system functioned properly.
These controllers provide much improved operating strategies that drastically improve driveability with better pressure rise control and lock-up timing over the 1993 and earlier controllers.
The following 1994 controllers will retro-fit all models 1989 to 1993. Consult this list to locate the correct controller part number for your application.
7.3 Diesel F series Econoline all 50 states use #F4TZ-12B565-AA
7.3 Diesel F series Econoline High altitude use #F4TZ-12B565-CA
7.3 Diesel Super Duty all 50 states use #F4TZ-12B565-BA
7.3 Diesel Super Duty High altitude use #F4TZ-12B565-DA
7.3 Turbo Diesel F series all states all altitudes use #F4TZ-12B565-EA
7.3 Turbo Diesel Super Duty all states all altitudes use #F4TZ-12B565-FA
Hope some of this helps. Ed
Ok, I think from my reading I have figured this out.
1. Low line pressure causes the soft shifts, and gets worse over time with these transmsissions.
2. Low pressure as the tranny ages causes the TC to begin slipping, this releases crap into the tranny.
3. The crap sticks in valves and solenoids further exasurbating the poor performing transmission.
4. The transmission actaully "shifts" somewhat ok, it just the TC is perpetually slipping and never locking up. Prolonged driving like this will obviously toast the tranny.
Now my solution
1. I have bought a new TC, a new solenoid pack, and an ESE (Electronic Systems Eliminator). The ESE replaces the electronic pressure control solenoid with a hydraulic/mechanical valve that maintains proper pressure in the tranny (prevents the stupid ford computer from telling it to run too low pressure). It also has a dummy connector for the computer to simulate proper operation so it doesn't p*ss off the computer either. This will prevent my new TC from burning up due to low line/apply pressure.
2. In addition to that I will perform the front pump lube-to-line update that effects the cooler flow, and add a backflow prevention valve. This will further prevent the new TC from failing by allowing full time flow to the cooler circuit.
3. Finally I will install new shift springs in the accumulator for the 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 shifts. This will prevent the transmission from having the sloppy soft shifts, and will prevent the clutches in the transmission from burning up.
All this can be done with out tearing into the hard parts of the tranny, I think (not sure on the front pump mod). The transmission had new hard parts installed less than 2000 miles ago, so they should be ok, and hopefully this will fix my issue and keep them that way. I'll keep you guys up to date, and take pictures of the repair.
Of course while doing this I will be flushing the cooler lines, installing a new internal and an external filter and bypass valve, switching to better fluid (haven't decided what brand yet), and installing a temperature sensor. I don't tow with this, so am not going to put an expensive TC in.
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1993 Ford F-250HD XLT w/tow package (8,301 - 9,000# GVW) Single Cab, 7.3L IDI Non-turbo, 4x4, trac-lock 3.55 rear end, rebuilt E4OD with shift kit, ESE kit, and tranny cooler, ice-cold a/c, 245,000 miles.
Put on a new FIPL first. I changed mine after I was starting in second when it was cold, running better with od off. The new FIPL fixed all of it. The FIPL that was on previously was only a year old. Its a cheap part.
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92 E 350 extended VAN, quigley 4x4, 7.3 idi, E40D, 4.10's,mitsu starter,Warn front bumper, captains chairs,33x12.5's,rear ac, pulling 22 Ft. Commercial Duty Whaler.Finally got my dream rides. Baja here we come...Well Almost anyway
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Put on a new FIPL first. I changed mine after I was starting in second when it was cold, running better with od off. The new FIPL fixed all of it. The FIPL that was on previously was only a year old. Its a cheap part.
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Will do, I'm still just skeptical because of the symptoms. If it were that, then I don't think I would be experiencing proper shifting outside of the tcc slipping. However, like i said, i will give that a shot on sat. it certainly would be cheaper if that works.
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1993 Ford F-250HD XLT w/tow package (8,301 - 9,000# GVW) Single Cab, 7.3L IDI Non-turbo, 4x4, trac-lock 3.55 rear end, rebuilt E4OD with shift kit, ESE kit, and tranny cooler, ice-cold a/c, 245,000 miles.
I pretty much had the same problem with mine '94 F-350 IDI. I took it for a rebuild. Every sensor was replaced, FIPL adjusted a few times, New HD torque converter, every hard part except the case. That was about a month ago. I got it back and it did the exact same thing it did before the rebuild. I took it back on Monday and got a call today telling me that the Case where the valve body is was defunct. This was messing with the pressures causing perfect shifting, followed by slipping, followed by sometimes going into neutral at highway speeds, then all is good for 10 miles, then the same crap over again. So I will be recieving a new transmission case and all the goodies inside. Hopefully your's is under warranty like mine, that case is big money or so I hear [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] When I get it back I'll try to get more details on what was going on and post anything else I find out.
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'83 F-250 6.9 4 speed 2x4.
'93 W-250 /1995 CTD auto 4x4
'05 F-250 5.4 auto 4x4 plow.
'94 1 ton dump 4x4 e4od 7.3 idi
I installed my ESE kit today. The ese kit (for those that don't know) is a replacement for the 'EPC' circuit in the e4od; it replaces the valve, check ball, and solenoid used to regulate the line pressure in an E4OD transmission. Instead of allowing the computer (EEC, PCM)to control the line pressure based on RPM, Throttle, Speed, Temperature, and Shift Lever position, this kit utilizes orifices and valves to meter and control line pressure in the transmission.
The initial result is a +/-20 psi boost in line pressure, followed by a perfectly linear increase in line pressure with respect to RPM's. This is a departure from the 'constantly variable' line pressure provided by the EPC solendoid/PCM,ECC.
Anyway, enought about the theory, here's the result.
1. I didn't disconnect the battery cables before I installed.
2. I have not replaced my MPLS yet.
3. I replaced the original solenoid pack with a rebuilt/modified unit.
4. I Found 1 bolt missing from the accumulator valve body (THIS IS A BRAND NEW REBUILD!!!)
My shift selector 'now' seems screwed up, as I can only get P,R,and N to work properly. Drive feels like 2nd or 3rd gear, and 1 and 2 feel like 1st or 2nd gear. I'm actually encouraged by this, as I have been told time and time again to change my MPLS, and haven't done so. So, my hope is that when I replace the MPLS and reset the computer that it will begin firing the shift solenoids properly.
The only thing I wish I could have done was to modify the pump with the constant line-to-cooler mod. Unfortunately, that would requrire removal of the tranny and disassemby. Doing this only required that I remove 3 of the 4 valve bodies and 1 of many check balls.
All in all, I am EXTREMELY happy with the results I have so far. It feels like a new truck in '1' and when I get up to speed, 'D' feels great. I think after I fix the MPLS and reset the computer my tranny problems will be over. This might have just been related to the missing bolt (which will cause internal pressure leakage). But, I certainly feel more comfortable that my transmission doesn't rely on a stupid computer to determine the correct line pressure.
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1993 Ford F-250HD XLT w/tow package (8,301 - 9,000# GVW) Single Cab, 7.3L IDI Non-turbo, 4x4, trac-lock 3.55 rear end, rebuilt E4OD with shift kit, ESE kit, and tranny cooler, ice-cold a/c, 245,000 miles.
So, my hope is that when I replace the MPLS and reset the computer that it will begin firing the shift solenoids properly.
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I am happy to report that, after resetting the computer, my truck is now shifting properly, locking the TC properly, and going into overdrive properly without throwing the code 62. I believe the combination of the missing bolt in the accumulator body and a questionable solenoid pack caused the excessive problems I was having. As stated earlier, I have completely eliminated the EPC(Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid in favor of a hydraulic pressure control valve. This gives me greater peace of mind that the line pressure will remain uneffected by sensor inputs, thus saving my transmission from the fate of many before. If anyone is interesting in the modification you can go here to read more.
Linear Mode
