E4OD problems?

[jslash]

Well folks,

I backed out of a friends drive this afternoon, shifted into D and
the truck *lurched* forward and stopped. When I hit the trottle the
engine revved but the truck barely moved. I have to admit that this
happened twice before a few months ago and all I did was shut down
the engine, restart and it worked fine. No such luck this time.
This time it would move fine in first. Then I noticed that I couldn't
get the overdrive *off* to light up on the shift handle if I pressed
it. Then I noticed that my tach was dead. Did my tach sensor just
*happen* to die as I backed out of the drive? Maybe a fuse? I left
my manual at home so don't have the fuse layout.

Any ideas? It better not be a fried E40D!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/vomit.gif[/img]

TIA!

Jim

[olivera149]

im having the same problem except my tack is working. I checked all the fuses and connections at the heat shield and everything is good, no corrossion, called a reputable trans shop and they said mine was fried and probably the previous owner ran around with low fluid level and burnt the clutches prematurely. When i bought my truck the fluid was fine, but there was a short period of time when the guys son i bought it from was driving it around and amounted the only body damage on the rear fender, so i think i see the son didnt keep the PM up to snuff. His service records all showed good PM except the last 8,000 miles before i purchased my truck.

I hope its something simple and we both dont have to bite the $2,000 bullet to rebuild.

--Ryan

[deanj]

Check the fuse, then the tac sensor (located by the oil filler neck, 2 wires from a 1 1/8 nut i think )some times you can take out the sensor and clean the pick up. Eventually you will replace. Check your fluid level. If you can get it to auto zone - o reillys and get them to read the codes. Normally their are 3 sensors that go out Speed sensor, FLIP, and tack. Once you have the codes you can go from there.

[OkieGringo]

Check/replace rhe computer relay on the drivers side fender well. It "relays" the signals from both the FIPL and the Tach sensor. About $17.00 at autoparts store. The new on might have more terminals than you need for your yr truck but it'll work. Been there, done that, got the tee-shirt. OkieGringo

[jslash]

Well, I pulled the truck into the shop yesterday afternoon. Checked
all the fuses I could inside and under the hood. All okay. After
it sat for a few hours it worked fine on the way home. The tach is
still flakey. It bounces around zero at idle and then jumps up when
I hit the go pedal. So I've known that for a while. But why it
stopped completely and I didn't have any response from the OD button
on the shifter was freaky. I'll check for that control box on the
fender well.

More later...

Jim

[cdnsarguy]

Check the wires for the tach where they come out of the sender. Usually they will frey or wire cover will pull back at the sender and short when fan air or motor movement exists.