Hi-I just bought a 1994 turbo idi 7.3l. I am having a problem with the transmission though. Torque converter was replaced prior to me buying the truck also. Anyway heres the deal:
Truck drives fine most of the time but when it acts up I lose all gears in drive. It will rev to the moon. I can pull over, put it in park and back into drive and 80% of the time it will drive fine again. But the other 20% I have to wait about 5-10 minutes to put it back into drive to have forward gears. Could this be an electric problem? It being so intermittent kinda rules out mechanical right? Any help would be great as I bought it for a daily driver for my business. Thanks Duane
These trannies are not very reliable. Mine has its issues too. I am thinking that the best option is to not fix it yet swap witha 5 speed....good luck...
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1994 F350 XL Crewcab 4x4 SRW 7.3 NA
Dana 60 Sterling 10.25 3.55 285/75 16 Dayton Timberlines
TC lockup Mod
Pyro Installed!!!
TO DO: Boost guage, Tekonsha Voyager Brake controller and Turbo when I acquire one!!!
"Neutraling out" can be caused by a bad MLPS AKA neutral safety switch.
Ford issued an updated part in 1995, which requires the connector to be changed if it has not been already. Most replacement parts will be the updated design.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
is there anyway to check and see if the nuetral safety switch is bad? I really dont have the means to swap for a 5 speed and I'd be forced to sell it if it needed a transmission.
just to recap-the Nuetral safety switch would make it go into nuetral while driving? I thought it's only function would be to lockout the ability to start the engine while in gear.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mr_Roboto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just change the switch out, they are $36.99 at Autozone (F409). Any auto parts store will have it or can get it.
Ford has used the E4OD for years and years. Replacing with a ZF-5 just changes one problem for another. </div></div>
Yeah, I was mostly venting but I still think its a good option depending upon cost....but I was thinking more worst case scenario so it may no be the most cost friendly option...
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1994 F350 XL Crewcab 4x4 SRW 7.3 NA
Dana 60 Sterling 10.25 3.55 285/75 16 Dayton Timberlines
TC lockup Mod
Pyro Installed!!!
TO DO: Boost guage, Tekonsha Voyager Brake controller and Turbo when I acquire one!!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Duane1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just to recap-the Nuetral safety switch would make it go into nuetral while driving? I thought it's only function would be to lockout the ability to start the engine while in gear. </div></div>
It's not just a neutral safety switch. It's new name is Transmission Range Sensor (TRS.) It also tells the computer where you have the shifter. When they start to go bad, and pre-95 TRS OFTEN went bad, they tell the computer you shifted to nuetral. So that's what the computer tells the trans to do.
__________________ Mark
Former Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007
This part you are talking about is called "Manual Position Lever Sensor" = MLPS. It MUST be aligned correctly!!!! Try "aligning" the one on the trans before you buy another. Cheapest I've found is on internet for around $45.00, there is a tool to align the sensor(also ~$45.00), but if you can find the circuit for the backup lights and connect a test light into it. Put lever in REVERSE, turn key to ON, loosen the bolts on the MLPS and rotate until backup lights come on, then tighten the sensor bolts. Good luck, OkieGringo
I haven't had time to mess with it yet hopefully tomorrow-anyway cant I stick a test light in the socket for the reverse lights instead of going "inline" to adjust the neutral safety switch?
anyone? Also how hard is it to change the windshield? If I remember right some were glued and some had a rubber seal? I do remember I never found a way to secure the chrome trim on the older trucks(it always left around 80mph) any tips would be sweet!