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E4OD Quirky Shifting

3K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  Hoko 
#1 ·
I replaced my old messed up E4OD with an E40D Jasper transmission. I like that the jasper has 1/2" oil lines instead of the 3/8" lines my first one had and it's a solid transmission. My first one had quirky shifting that was just random. For no obvious reason it would just go through phases when it would shift hard for a few days to a week then it would go back to shifting smoothly. I thought getting a rebuilt transmission would solve that problem but this one does about the same as the first one. What causes these transmissions to do this? I saw a post somewhere on this forum a while back that said something about dirty electrical connections on the transmission causing it but I'm not sure what connections those are or the right way to clean them. :scratchhead:
 
#2 · (Edited)
Probable needlessly replaced the Trans. if your experiencing the same problem. You should of had the codes pulled. Ford ? OBD/OBD2 Trouble Codes

Since it's a 94, the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is on the rear axle next to the differential.
Problems with it. Connector is corroded pins, sensor is dirty (metal shavings), bare connector wires. Your speedometer could be funky from those.

MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor) mounted on the drivers side shifting shaft.
Connector pins corroded, not set correctly in Neutral position.

FILP ( Fuel Injector Lever Position) Mounted on the IP drivers side.
Bare,dirty spots on the rheostat wire. Voltage output setting in idle position should be between .91 and 1.2 VDC, no voltage drop from idle to WOT.

Connector on trans. on passengers side, should have a metal shield to protect from exhaust heat.
Dirty/corroded connector pins. Bare wires insulation melted from exhaust heat and shorting out.
 
#4 ·
Probable needlessly replaced the Trans. if your experiencing the same problem. You should of had the codes pulled. Ford ? OBD/OBD2 Trouble Codes
Absolutely. Without codes you won't fix this.

Since it's a 94, the VSS (Variable Speed Sensor) is on the rear axle next to the differential.
Vehicle speed sensor.
Problems with it. Connector is corroded pins, sensor is dirty (metal shavings), bare connector wires. Your speedometer could be funky from those.
Or even more likely, the PSOM on the back of the instrument cluster.

MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor) mounted on the drivers side shifting shaft.
Connector pins corroded, not set correctly in Neutral position.
Maybe, maybe not. The codes will tell.

FILP ( Fuel Injector Lever Position) Mounted on the IP drivers side.
Bare,dirty spots on the rheostat wire. Voltage output setting in idle position should be between .91 and 1.2 VDC, no voltage drop from idle to WOT.
Maybe, maybe not. The codes will tell.

Connector on trans. on passengers side, should have a metal shield to protect from exhaust heat.
Dirty/corroded connector pins. Bare wires insulation melted from exhaust heat and shorting out.
Maybe, maybe not. The codes will tell.

Kickdown cable/bushing
Definitely NOT the problem, since there is no kickdown cable/bushing on this transmission. That's outdated technology, this is an electronic transmission.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Variable/"Vehicle" speed sensor corrected. Thanks Mark

Just listed a few things to check.
 
#7 ·
Yeah I know Mark, but ain't it fun to bust your knuckles, grease your hands up, noggin bumps and learn where all the stuff is on these old beasts. If your gonna own one, get educated.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Thank you for all that information, I'll archive all that in my truck notebook. Actually I replaced the transmission because I overheated it one too many times. The engine has an overheating problem when I pull heavy loads that I haven't been able to figure out yet. Are those codes something the guy at Autozone can check for with his code reader or is that something that the dealer will have to do?
 
#10 ·
Autozone probably can't do it. Do you have a paper clip? That's all it takes to get the codes from a '94. If you click on the link, above, posted by Trucker87 it shows how to easily get the codes yourself. Or you could pay someone to do it.
 
#12 ·
I have the jumper wire in place and when I turn the key on I can hear a relay open and close about 4 times and the battery light dims and brightens with it but that's it. The check engine light never comes on. In fact I have never seen the check engine light come on. I had it in the transmission shop several times and they had a really hard time communicating with the computer. Any ideas what the problem is?
 
#13 ·
Any ideas what the problem is?
Yes, I have an idea where the problem is. Something is wrong. Without the codes that's about as specific as I can get.

Take a look again at this link: Ford ? OBD/OBD2 Trouble Codes. Look at the drawing on the right side. It shows how to use a voltmeter instead of the check engine light.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Can't get computer to connect so I have to check each component that may be causing the funky shifting. Ok, I found the VSS. Ok so this is actually the abs sensor and the vss. Ok I cleaned the connector which appears to be the only serviceable component and I am assuming if it wasn't working the abs light would be on. I would check the PSOM next, if someone can tell me what it is and where it is.
 
#18 ·
I checked all fuses, all are good but I don't know how to check the relays.
 
#17 ·
The P-SOM is mounted on the rear of the gauge cluster.
 
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