electric fuel pump - Diesel Forum

DSBlack · 03-21-2005, 11:21 PM

OK, I am going to do this tomorrow.
Where did you guys get the power from to run the pump when the key is on?

cdnsarguy · 03-21-2005, 11:51 PM

I recommend possibly the live wire before the temp switch for the Fast idle and timing advance be used to power a separate relay to power the pump from the battery. You could also use the power wire to the fuel heater for the relay.

You should/could also think to install a inertia shutoff for accident protection into the power wire.

R0oster06 · 03-22-2005, 07:04 AM

i just ran it up under my fuse pannel through a oggle switch. very easy and ive got the switch in case of a wreck.

-Jeremy Roooster!

maddenji · 03-22-2005, 01:14 PM

I ran a separate relay connected to the main solenoid thru a fuse and an inertia switch off a Ford station wagon for power, and the IP pump wire to actuate the relay at "key on". I lke the inertia switch as I don't have to be concious for it to work.
Jim

OkieGringo · 03-22-2005, 01:18 PM

[ QUOTE ]
I recommend possibly the live wire before the temp switch for the Fast idle and timing advance be used to power a separate relay to power the pump from the battery. You could also use the power wire to the fuel heater for the relay.

You should/could also think to install a inertia shutoff for accident protection into the power wire.

[/ QUOTE ]

I like the "relay" idea, but would run the relay enegizer off of a fuse panel circuit that is hot in both RUN and START. I also have a bypass switch under the hood for those times when you need to prime the injectors. And I put in a 'low oil pressure shut-off switch'. On my old truck there is ONLY one circuit that is HOT in both RUN and START in the fuse block. I don't remember how I wired it exactly, because of 'Old Timers Disease' and C.R.S.(Can't Remember Autolite) [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]Baja

d9d · 03-22-2005, 02:12 PM

heya Baja,

The IP fuel-on solenoid circuit (red w/green) has just gotta be hot during both RUN and START, eh?

That's the line I used to energize the relay-coil. I tied into it on the truck-side of the truck/engine connector (on top of the pass-side wheel-well).

I used a relay with a mounting-tab built into it; and used that 1/4" hex-head sheet-metal screw that's holding down a ground-wire right next to the regulator (91 truck). Put a ring-terminal on the relay-coil ground wire and put that under the screw as well.

I feed the relay-contacts (pump power) from the battery; via a ring terminal onto the batt-side of the starter-relay. On mine, there was plenty of extra stud; so I just added the new ring on top of the existing nut; and added a 2nd nut. Between that starter-relay terminal and the pump-relay, I put an inline fuseholder; and used a 10 amp fuse.

Pump is a $29 ticker, mounted on frame-rail just in front of the selector-valve. There are already some holes in the frame-rail there; and 2 of them were perfect for the vibration-isolation mount that I had in mind.

I cut a piece of 1/4" conveyor-belt material (reinforced rubber) about 6" x 4.5", punched a hole near each end, to match the holes in the frame-rail; and punched 2 more holes to mount the pump to the rubber. Mounted the pump so that the outlet is slightly "up" from the inlet; which is what the instructions say for these pumps.

I needed the rubber to be spaced from the frame-rail; so that the pump-mount boltheads wouldn't touch the frame and defeat the whole purpose... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

So on the 1/4-20 hex-bolts through the frame, between the frame and the rubber sheet, I used 3/8" nylon-insert locknuts; which I found to be the exact right height to do the job. I put the nylon end against the frame and the nut-end against the rubber.

I used 1/4" washers on the pump-side of the rubber, to keep the 1/4-20 nuts from digging in too deep upon tightening.

I put a ring-terminal on the pump's black wire, and of course put that ring under one of the -frame- bolts, NOT the usual pump-bolt... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

I took a few pics, but haven't uploaded them to my webpage yet. If anyone's interested, check tomorrow or the next day. Should have 'em up by then....

This mount eliminates the usual thumping noise getting into the cab; so long as there's fuel in the pump. If the tank goes dry tho, then I can hear it rattle; which I think is a good thing actually.

I plumbed the pump by cutting the plastic fuel-line coming out of the selector valve with a hacksaw; and forcing 5/16" rubber fuel hose over the ends and using stainless screw-clamps. The 5/16 hose is a pretty tight fit onto the plastic line; which has a .400" OD. I managed to get about 3/4" engagement; which I felt was sufficient for a stable installation.

When I first measured the OEM line at .400 OD, I planned to use 3/8" hose, as that should be a perfect snug fit; but the 3/8" was too sloppy on the 5/16" barbs that came with the pump...and it was Sunday... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Next time I do one, I'll pick up a couple of 3/8" screw-in barbs for the pump, and use the 3/8" size hose.

DSBlack · 03-22-2005, 03:31 PM

OK, Thanks,
Now another question, Which line do I cut into to install this? I want it right in front of the selector valve. there is the supply, and return. Which is which?

thanks
Doug

beretzs · 03-22-2005, 05:57 PM

Doug, on my truck it was a blue line I cut and spliced into. The line right from the selector. Pretty easy, throw a few fittings in there and put some teflon tape on it with a few hose clamps and you will be in business. Scotty

safetybob · 03-22-2005, 10:26 PM

What kind of electric pump did you get? I am interested in this too and just want to know what kind of pumps everyone is using.

Bob E.

R0oster06 · 03-22-2005, 10:51 PM

im using an elchepo mr. gasket eletric pump from orielly 40 buck works like a charm. alot of guys are running the holley red pump but for less than half the price i have the same result.

To see wich line to splid into just follow it up to the menual lift pump. i belive it runs across your crossmember if i remeber correctly.
make sure you put the block off plate facing the right was i was dumb and put mine on upside down and ended up dumping a quart of oil out [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]
made me feel very very dumb!

-Jeremy Roooster!

DSBlack · 03-22-2005, 11:06 PM

I have not put on a blank off. Is this required? Or can I just leave the mech. pump in place?
I used a facet pump from AutoZone or Schucks, but it was about $20.

thanks for the help,

Doug

R0oster06 · 03-22-2005, 11:45 PM

it better to pull the pump and put the 5 dollar plate on. That arm can break off and end up in your oil pan.

-Jeremy Roooster!

d9d · 03-23-2005, 01:14 AM

You got a Facet electric pump for 20 bucks? The little cubical thing? That's a good price! I always have to pay 30 or a little more here.

I'll check Autozone next time...apparently my local NAPA ain't competitive... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

I have not removed the mech. pump yet. I'm just running it in-line.

However, I have found that the electric did NOT aid in cutting cranking time. I believe I have an air-leak of some sort on this '91; as it takes 10 seconds of cranking on first-start each day; then starts instantly throughout the day. I expected the electric to pre-charge the IP a bit and reduce the cranking needed; but it has not.

My main reason for adding it however, it to insure that if I run a tank dry and switch tanks, that I can pump up again without cranking....so not end up with dead batteries in the middle of nowhere...

On this '91 F350 4x4, the main line was the larger of the two; and the return line was smaller diameter. However, I'd sure verify that on your own truck by tracing it out, before cutting any lines... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

DSBlack · 03-23-2005, 10:41 AM

Yes, I got it in. I will get the plate some day, Now I have to wire it up. Napa has always been higher priced than the others, but they can get things the others can not.
this is all part of a conversion project. 2 pumps on a DPDT switch. This will give me the ability to run from my normal tanks or from an in the bed tank which is heated and will be carrying veg oil soon I hope.
Got to do something about this diesel price and I do not want to be a chemist making my own bio-D.
Now to modify the return and power it up! Today has to be the day she is at least running. Back to work tomorrow.....

thanks
Doug

OkieGringo · 03-23-2005, 08:36 PM

d9d, <font color="red">"I have not removed the mech. pump yet. I'm just running it in-line."</font>
"However, I have found that the electric did NOT aid in cutting cranking time. I believe I have an air-leak of some sort on this '91; as it takes 10 seconds of cranking on first-start each day; then starts instantly throughout the day. I expected the electric to pre-charge the IP a bit and reduce the cranking needed; but it has not.

My main reason for adding it however, it to insure that if I run a tank dry and switch tanks, that I can pump up again without cranking....so not end up with dead batteries in the middle of nowhere...

At least by-pass the mechanical pump, and you'll probably get quicker start-up. If you want to leave it on just in case the e-pump goes south, I don't see a problem other than it sucking dirt into it, then into the filter if/when you need to re-hook-it-up.
On my truck, if I let her sit a few days, she looses prime and doesn't fire right away. I get out open the hood and turn on the bypass switch which leaves the epump running. Then I turn key to RUN and crank it maybe 10 seconds, and she'll fire up. Then I shut off the bypass switch under the hood and she stays running until I shut off key switch. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]Baja