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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

       
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Old 08-12-2008, 02:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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That's 18 PSI. About 10 too much.
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Old 08-14-2008, 10:01 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Good stuff! I'm also planning on a homebrewed fuel system, except the electric pump would be more of a primer pump with the help of a check valve... anyway, will standard steel braided fuel line and radiator clamps work in place of the steel line from the factory between the mechanical lift pump and the filter/separator base?
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Old 08-15-2008, 12:38 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I don't see why not. I have rubber fuel-injection hose from the stock lift pump to the filter base on my rig. Just have to change a couple fittings to accept the hose. Its a low pressure sytem so it doesn't need anything too radical. I'm not sure how well braided s/s lines seal on pipe nipples, though, I don't have any experience with that.
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Old 08-15-2008, 02:17 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I have this pump from my former drag car: SX Performance Fuel Pumps Model 18203. This thing free flows ridiculous amounts of gasoline but when I set it up as a collection pump for WVO is slowed to a crawl, just something for you guys considering WVO in the future to consider. I'm gonna test it again on a low viscosity WVO blend that runs well in my van. I note that it now says not for use with ULSD fuel, I assume this is because this pump is lubricated and cooled by the fuel flowing thru it. Even regulated it's likely too much pump for a lift setup, it's got -10AN fittings (5/8"), when I street drove my drag car with a return from the regulator it would heat up the whole gas tank in 30 minutes of freeway driving to the track. I later moved it in front of the engine to keep the fuel lines as far away from the heat as possible and the heat problem went away. I have used the Holley Red in the past and even have one temporarily in my early 911, I hate them! They easily rust the pump vanes, require too much attention and are noisy as all hell. The one in the car is bolted to a piece of car tire and is still far too noisy. FWIW I'll likely use a Carter on my van in the future, I've had great luck with them in the past.
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Old 08-18-2008, 01:33 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I am looking to install electric pump this week were is the best and easiest way to pull power from?
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Old 08-19-2008, 08:35 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodman68 View Post
I am looking to install electric pump this week were is the best and easiest way to pull power from?

I prefer to use a relay, triggered by just about any of the key on items like the radio etc. Typically I'll install a rocker switch in that line giving me a simple hidden kill switch. Also while not necessary it is also nice to have a rocker from an always on source to the relay, this allows you to run the pump without the key on such as after a filter change or after refilling if you ran out of fuel etc. Make sure you have a good ground source for both the pump and relay. Using the relay means you won't draw too much power from whatever circuit you choose for a trigger. Run a separate positive directly from the battery to the relay and on to the pump. I like to grind a spot on the frame then drill and tap for a bolt to ensure a good ground. I can't tell you how many guys I've seen broken down because of poor wiring to pumps and ignition systems.
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Old 08-19-2008, 01:38 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info I will start running lines today. I hate bringing lines into the cab but the kill switch would be a good idea. I thought about running out of the fuse box under hood to a relay with two switches one to bypass relay for constant on and one for complete shutoff.
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Old 08-20-2008, 09:45 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rodman68 View Post
Thanks for the info I will start running lines today. I hate bringing lines into the cab but the kill switch would be a good idea. I thought about running out of the fuse box under hood to a relay with two switches one to bypass relay for constant on and one for complete shutoff.

Don't bypass the relay, just rig a switch to an always on power source to the relay, there's your always on mode. You can put the kill on the ground side of the relay. I like to use a 3 way switch with center off, one side to constant power and the other to key on power, this gives you all the functionality in one switch.
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