The engine temp guage on my dash will move maybe 1/8'' after a long trip, but the heat is blowing warm and the radiator hoses are hot. So I was thinking maybe the temp sensor is bad, after doing some searching on here to find the location of the sensor I found a picture showing it was directly behind the thermostat. Well the sensor I picked up from autozone has a 2 pin connector whereas the sensor behind the tstat has two spades. Am I looking at the wrong sensor or do I need to solder up a connecting harness?
the spade connector is the cold start switch, the new one oyu have is wrong, your temp sensor is near the front of the head on the block.
check ground connections under the dash also. They get loose and make the gauges do funny things.
circled, in red sort of.
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91 F350 crew cab 4x4 7.3 ats and intercooled with cut down 2000 ps cooler, bigger turbo comp,head studs, torque cam, coated rockers , balanced. very good power.
pyro,boost and all stock guages ignored with mechanical real ones
Fugitive sandrail. type 4 2840 turbo fi, lots of fun
The sensor that i see in your picture on my engine only has one wire coming out of it? My cold start switch does not work, even after setting the pedal before cranking. Will a bad temp sensor cause this or do I have another problem somewhere else?
Yes the temp gauge sensor is one wire. You may have a bad cold start switch, unplug it and jump it and see if the advance and fast idle work then.. They do go bad.
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91 F350 crew cab 4x4 7.3 ats and intercooled with cut down 2000 ps cooler, bigger turbo comp,head studs, torque cam, coated rockers , balanced. very good power.
pyro,boost and all stock guages ignored with mechanical real ones
Fugitive sandrail. type 4 2840 turbo fi, lots of fun
Like he said, you bought the wrong part. The sensor/switch behind the thermostat controls cold advance and high idle solenoids, independent of the other sensors. It has two spade connectors, which could be loose. I don't think it is available from anywhere else but Ford or International dealer, or junkyard. The AZ part monkey doesn't know this, of course, and can't figure it out, either.
You can check function of the high idle and cold advance solenoids (on the pump) by providing 12V from the battery.
The temp gauge sensor has one wire, and is where the pic shows. The other sensor/switch near it, mounted on the head, is for an idiot light.
Good luck
oops, typefour answered
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1989 F250 7.3IDI, 2x4, SC, LB, ZF-5, 110K, bone stock, no bells, no whistles, no frills, no nonsense.
1997 F250 7.3DIT, 4x4, SC, LB, E4OD, 120K, 203F stat & coolant filter, otherwise stock, pics
If you buy the cold advance/high idle switch from a Navistar dealer, you're going to pay over $100 retail for it - I (stupidly) paid about $90 for mine and that's jobber list. What I'd do is check NAPA for a temp switch that opens around 115F, has 2 terminals, and is 3/8" pipe thread. I bet you'll pay a lot less for it.
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Phil
1988 F350, NA 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, 4.10 SRW. Miles: over 450K. Being taken off the road within the next month or so to deal with advanced rust. May just do a resto/rebuild to better my bodywork & paint skills.
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91 F350 crew cab 4x4 7.3 ats and intercooled with cut down 2000 ps cooler, bigger turbo comp,head studs, torque cam, coated rockers , balanced. very good power.
pyro,boost and all stock guages ignored with mechanical real ones
Fugitive sandrail. type 4 2840 turbo fi, lots of fun
I actually wondered about that after buying mine from Navistar, IIRC the last time I bought one from GM I'm pretty sure the cost was around $50. That WAS about 10 years ago, though. Tomorrow I'll look through our NAPA books at work and see what I can find, napaonline.com sucks for descriptions.
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Phil
1988 F350, NA 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, 4.10 SRW. Miles: over 450K. Being taken off the road within the next month or so to deal with advanced rust. May just do a resto/rebuild to better my bodywork & paint skills.
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91 F350 crew cab 4x4 7.3 ats and intercooled with cut down 2000 ps cooler, bigger turbo comp,head studs, torque cam, coated rockers , balanced. very good power.
pyro,boost and all stock guages ignored with mechanical real ones
Fugitive sandrail. type 4 2840 turbo fi, lots of fun
Another thing - 6.2ls had 2 temp switches, the one that cut off the fast idle & HPCA at 95F, and the glow plug inhibit switch that opened at 115F.
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Phil
1988 F350, NA 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, 4.10 SRW. Miles: over 450K. Being taken off the road within the next month or so to deal with advanced rust. May just do a resto/rebuild to better my bodywork & paint skills.
Not much in the NAPA line that will be suitable without some rewiring and a different solenoid, all I found was TS5506 which opens at 100F. Cost is $100 retail, so it's not really a better deal. It'll work in an emergency, I suppose, since NAPA stores are more numerous than Navistar or Ford dealers LOL
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Phil
1988 F350, NA 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, 4.10 SRW. Miles: over 450K. Being taken off the road within the next month or so to deal with advanced rust. May just do a resto/rebuild to better my bodywork & paint skills.
I was finally able to do some checking today on the cold start solenoid, turns out the wire wasnt even connected. So i started it up, the high idle worked. Drove for maybe ten minutes and it was still on, this was after the block heater had been on for 4 hours and in 30degree weather. So i pulled over and unplugged it. I was heading home tonight about an hour ago and after about 17 miles of driving i stopped at a buddys house to get a thermometer and check my coolant temp. The temp was only at 125* so it looks like im in for a new thermostat?
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