I under that before I start the key I'm supposed to push the pedal down and the solenoid plunger is supposed to pop out to push agains the fuel lever on the side of the IP. Mine just barely reaches the lever when it pops out and doesn't increase the RPMs at all. I don't know if the IP was ever changed. What could the problem be and how do I fix it?
Thank you guys
Pete
__________________
1993 F350 7.3 IDI, auto, crew cab, 8' bed, 260,xxx miles, 4" lift, 315x16 BFG mud terrain. Speedo recalibrated by dealer for tires. Banks trans command. floor-master(flowmaster) exhaust, just installed banks sidewinder kit, pyro, and boost installed. Still working on trans temp guage.
03 LTZ400 atv
1985 Honda V30 magna
Turn key to on position. Then push pedal down. Wait to start light goes out and cranker up. If it still doesn't work you might want to check and see if it gets voltage with key on and truck cold.
__________________
93, F350,7.3, crewcab, 5 speed, 4X4, 4:10 gears, hypermax turbo(now working 5/20/05), 3.5" exhaust no muffler,Soup Bowl removed. "Brownie" (named by my 2 yr. old niece and nephew) came to live with us on 9/30/04. New Radiator 09/06.7 new beru's 12/30/06
That's what I'm doing, the problem is that the plunger barely touches the lever.
__________________
1993 F350 7.3 IDI, auto, crew cab, 8' bed, 260,xxx miles, 4" lift, 315x16 BFG mud terrain. Speedo recalibrated by dealer for tires. Banks trans command. floor-master(flowmaster) exhaust, just installed banks sidewinder kit, pyro, and boost installed. Still working on trans temp guage.
03 LTZ400 atv
1985 Honda V30 magna
93 F250, regular cab, 4x4, 7.3 NA, ZF5, 3.55, 209k miles, came home 2/28/06, soon to be turbo.
92 250, regular cab, 4x4, 7.3 NA, E4OD, 3.55, 316k miles, came home 8/28/04, aluminium 16x7 wheels, 285/75/16 Sport King AT.
89 250, extended cab, 4x4, 7.3, ATS wastegated, 5" straight pipe, hand shaker, 4.10, slightly toasted, waiting for a new cab and front end, came home 12/24/04
In 12 years, over 244,000 miles, mine has never worked. Why do you need it?
I never knew it existed until I found this web site.
How does the truck run?
__________________
'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
It bumps your rpms up a little at idle when cold, probably helps to get the truck up to operating temp better and maintain operating temp if you let it idle for long periods of time when cold.
__________________
Allen
93 F250, regular cab, 4x4, 7.3 NA, ZF5, 3.55, 209k miles, came home 2/28/06, soon to be turbo.
92 250, regular cab, 4x4, 7.3 NA, E4OD, 3.55, 316k miles, came home 8/28/04, aluminium 16x7 wheels, 285/75/16 Sport King AT.
89 250, extended cab, 4x4, 7.3, ATS wastegated, 5" straight pipe, hand shaker, 4.10, slightly toasted, waiting for a new cab and front end, came home 12/24/04
I dont activate the fast idle until the truck starts and the oil pressure builds.I believe it also works in conjuction with your "cold advance" for better starts.Might start better if activated before engine is started...
I just plug it in when its cold out...
Cory
__________________
1992 F250 XLT 4x4 reg cab 7.3 na auto.120,000 miles
285/16 BFG AT,16x8 allum rims
Banks Y pipe to 3" stainless/flowmaster with 4" stainless tail pipe.
Stainless over axel traction bars w/stainless axel brkts.
Stainless upper and lower F/axel spring brkts.
Stainless sway bar links and brkts.
Powerstroke bumper insert
Firestone Air bags (rear)
stacked plate trans cooler with gauge
Temro resirculating block/water heater
Rancho RS9000 shocks
Allum box liner
1936 Diamond T 212bd
1968 Mustang FSTBK 427 4 spd
1967 Mustang 289 5spd
Originaly member #8410
[ QUOTE ]
I believe it also works in conjuction with your "cold advance" for better starts.Might start better if activated before engine is started...
Cory
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes Cory, you are correct. The cold start sensor (nothing more than a simple heat operated switch or "thermostat") closes when the coolant is cold and supplies power to the Fast Idle and Advance solonoids.
Makes for an easier cold start and a faster warm-up which is very improtant when you're burning diesel.
Carmine*
__________________
'91 F-250 4x4 E4OD, Meyers Plow, K&N Air Filter
[ QUOTE ]
It bumps your rpms up a little at idle when cold, probably helps to get the truck up to operating temp better and maintain operating temp if you let it idle for long periods of time when cold.
[/ QUOTE ]
I understand all that;
but why after 12 years of successful operation would I ever need Hi Idle, from my point of view, no one will suffer if there Hi Idle does not work.
__________________
'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
my high idle has never worked either. I don't suppose anyone really needs it. It's just a nice thing to warm the engine up faster, because we are after all supposed to let the engine idle for a few mins before driving off.
But if you drive off with a cold engine, doesn't change anything.
Oh, might help give the batteries some juice, could rig it up to manual control so it's like an AIC on the powerstroke.
[ QUOTE ]
In 12 years, over 244,000 miles, mine has never worked. Why do you need it?
I never knew it existed until I found this web site.
How does the truck run?
[/ QUOTE ]
I read a while ago, few years, that if allowed to idle long enough when cold the old idi's would wash the rings. Cyl temps weren't high enough and fuel wasn't being atomized enough. The higher idle speeds the pump, helps warm cylinders and atomizes the fuel a little better to prevent this.
Don't remember the source for sure, but I think it was 4 wheel and OR magazine in a tech section.
__________________
1997 PSD 3/4 ton 4x4 SC LWB SRW; 5 spd; 3:55; K&N open element/homemade intake; gutted EBPV piston, plugged hole; 3 in. downpipe; SCMT 1705; shimmed to 70 psi; 120,000; TTB DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
Mine only raises the RPM by a couple hundred revs,I find it quite usefull for circulating all the fluids while I dick around and lock up the house..
It is of no use to warm up the truck as it kicks off at 160,and I can drive for miles before it ever gets up to operating temp 200-205..
It (along with the cold advance) just helps a little in the mornings.Plugging them in is even better..
Cory
__________________
1992 F250 XLT 4x4 reg cab 7.3 na auto.120,000 miles
285/16 BFG AT,16x8 allum rims
Banks Y pipe to 3" stainless/flowmaster with 4" stainless tail pipe.
Stainless over axel traction bars w/stainless axel brkts.
Stainless upper and lower F/axel spring brkts.
Stainless sway bar links and brkts.
Powerstroke bumper insert
Firestone Air bags (rear)
stacked plate trans cooler with gauge
Temro resirculating block/water heater
Rancho RS9000 shocks
Allum box liner
1936 Diamond T 212bd
1968 Mustang FSTBK 427 4 spd
1967 Mustang 289 5spd
Originaly member #8410
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.
DiPricol 0-60 white face boost gauge, DiPricol 0-1600 white face pyrometer, SOLD in between gauges for now; A-Pillar mount for now. DIY 160cc Injectors.DIY IDM mod. ValAir O-FE w/3400# plate; Front and rear tank filler neck mods
Linear Mode
