Hello. My FIPL (grayish in color, so I don't thinks its original) will only achieve a voltage range of 1.1-3.5...instead of 3.8v. Now, should I keep the idle setting at the recommended 1.1 or move it so the W.O.T setting is the recommended 3.8 instead of 3.5, and therefore having the idle voltage at 1.4?
Does increase or decrease voltage raise the shift points?
I am going to be doing a lot of moderate towing the next little while, and would like to adjust to maybe increase shift points and possibly firm up the shifts a bit by doing so...basically trying to be easy on the trans.
My torque converter is acting up and is haunting between being locked and unlocked until enough speed is gained as it attempts to lock when in 3rd..Im hoping that if I raise the shift points that it will hide this problem until I have time to deal with it.
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1990 f250, ext cab, 4x4, 7.3l non-turbo, rebuilt E40d...still sketchy and worries me though, 4inch exhaust 355,000miles and counting. rebuilt injection pump and injectors, manually activated Beru glow plugs, K&N filter/no soup bowl, well maintained, SCA additives, use Howes conditioner in every tank, added leaf spring in all corners, rust around all fenders My work truck
1984 toyota BJ60 landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 498,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels
1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 387,000km Excellent fuel economy!
Just change the fipl to be safe, it is a cheap part, and only lasts about 50k miles. 1.1 on idle, and 3.8 at WOT is good. if you can't hit that, put the new one in. Yes it does control the shift points, and firmness. If it is out of spec, the shifts go to long, and that tends to wear out the trany even faster.
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1992 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI banks kit going on it.
1993 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI E4OD No Turbo
1990 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI ZF5 and Winch
1988 K30 Crew Cab 4x4 6.2l Diesel Turbo 400 Trans
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1990 f250, ext cab, 4x4, 7.3l non-turbo, rebuilt E40d...still sketchy and worries me though, 4inch exhaust 355,000miles and counting. rebuilt injection pump and injectors, manually activated Beru glow plugs, K&N filter/no soup bowl, well maintained, SCA additives, use Howes conditioner in every tank, added leaf spring in all corners, rust around all fenders My work truck
1984 toyota BJ60 landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 498,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels
1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 387,000km Excellent fuel economy!
I don't I need to set my to 1.1 to get a firm shift, less then that is to slow for me. It may vary depending on your trans. Mine is original with 170k miles.
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1992 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI banks kit going on it.
1993 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI E4OD No Turbo
1990 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI ZF5 and Winch
1988 K30 Crew Cab 4x4 6.2l Diesel Turbo 400 Trans
Ok I replace my FIPL today...$55. anyways I have it set at 1.1v-3.7v, it won't achieve 3.8 at W.O.T unless i jump up to 1.2v at idle.
torque converter still acting up. and shifts seem a bit smoother I think,
But im not really happy with it, im going to have to play with it some more.
Oh and I also replaced my speedometer sensor and gear unit at the end of the cable at the transfer case. just thought id mention it is all
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1990 f250, ext cab, 4x4, 7.3l non-turbo, rebuilt E40d...still sketchy and worries me though, 4inch exhaust 355,000miles and counting. rebuilt injection pump and injectors, manually activated Beru glow plugs, K&N filter/no soup bowl, well maintained, SCA additives, use Howes conditioner in every tank, added leaf spring in all corners, rust around all fenders My work truck
1984 toyota BJ60 landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 498,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels
1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 387,000km Excellent fuel economy!
Pull the toque converter cover and see if it is all blue in color? If it is it has been overheated. I replaced mine with a billet torque converter, it doesn't act up any more. The torque converters on our trucks are kind of flimsy from the factory. Check yours out if it is clunking when it locks, or chattering, or not locking up right in general.
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1992 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI banks kit going on it.
1993 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI E4OD No Turbo
1990 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI ZF5 and Winch
1988 K30 Crew Cab 4x4 6.2l Diesel Turbo 400 Trans
When it's wet out I still get an occasional lock and unlock of the TC. Electrical gremlins I assume. When it's dry all is well. Try R&R the wire harness plug on the pass side of the trans to clean the terminals.
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Regards,
Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA '90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 400K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, No ELC! (Extended Life Coolant) & 10 Oz. Bars Stop Leak
The T.C is red. with no discoloration, and has been replaced when trans was rebuilt. I think its just a stock converter though. The truck has not been worked hard or abused at all since rebuild...about 30,000miles ago. I don't notice any shuddering, it seems to operate quite normally, as it should with such low mileage, just unlocking and locking rapidly until speed increases to a point at which it stays locked. Everything is great other than that!
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1990 f250, ext cab, 4x4, 7.3l non-turbo, rebuilt E40d...still sketchy and worries me though, 4inch exhaust 355,000miles and counting. rebuilt injection pump and injectors, manually activated Beru glow plugs, K&N filter/no soup bowl, well maintained, SCA additives, use Howes conditioner in every tank, added leaf spring in all corners, rust around all fenders My work truck
1984 toyota BJ60 landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 498,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels
1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 387,000km Excellent fuel economy!
Lol I just recently discovered that as I tapped the brakes to warn the person behind me of a hazard up ahead. but this isn't what im doing.
Im heading out for a few days tomorrow with the truck and a slide in camper..a heavy one. I won't be online until I return so I look forward to discussing and hopefully curing this issue when get back. If the truck makes it...
Thanks Gentlemen!
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1990 f250, ext cab, 4x4, 7.3l non-turbo, rebuilt E40d...still sketchy and worries me though, 4inch exhaust 355,000miles and counting. rebuilt injection pump and injectors, manually activated Beru glow plugs, K&N filter/no soup bowl, well maintained, SCA additives, use Howes conditioner in every tank, added leaf spring in all corners, rust around all fenders My work truck
1984 toyota BJ60 landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 498,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels
1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 387,000km Excellent fuel economy!
Check the brake switch as well as the MLPS. Confirm the MLPS is lined up when the trans is shifted into neutral. A bad MLPS can cause this problem as well. Any codes? What about the tach sensor? The converter should lockup around 37mph IIRC.
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1991 OBS E350 7.3 IDI cargo van running 50/50 - 90/10 WVO/solvent blends. Holley Red pump, Fram PH8A oil filter as prefilter, -6AN aluminum fuel lines from tank to engine. 3" Walker Dynomax muffler with turndown.
The MLPS is bang on and its recently replaced trying to deal with previous tranny issues.
Im now pretty sure that it might be the fluttering speedo/cable because that is the only that is getting worse rapidly along with the converter, which is now to the point where is almost not drivable...it just going crazy. The speedo is doing the same.
So im going to swap out the speedo cable as I already replaced the gear and sensor unit at the transfer case. and replaced the vss, if that has anything to do with it.
The tach sensor is new(pricey) and is now working perfectly.
Any tricks to getting at the speedo cable in these things? its the truck in sig.
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1990 f250, ext cab, 4x4, 7.3l non-turbo, rebuilt E40d...still sketchy and worries me though, 4inch exhaust 355,000miles and counting. rebuilt injection pump and injectors, manually activated Beru glow plugs, K&N filter/no soup bowl, well maintained, SCA additives, use Howes conditioner in every tank, added leaf spring in all corners, rust around all fenders My work truck
1984 toyota BJ60 landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 498,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels
1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 387,000km Excellent fuel economy!
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