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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 10-22-2009, 11:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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FIPL adjustment

Hello. My FIPL (grayish in color, so I don't thinks its original) will only achieve a voltage range of 1.1-3.5...instead of 3.8v. Now, should I keep the idle setting at the recommended 1.1 or move it so the W.O.T setting is the recommended 3.8 instead of 3.5, and therefore having the idle voltage at 1.4?
Does increase or decrease voltage raise the shift points?
I am going to be doing a lot of moderate towing the next little while, and would like to adjust to maybe increase shift points and possibly firm up the shifts a bit by doing so...basically trying to be easy on the trans.
My torque converter is acting up and is haunting between being locked and unlocked until enough speed is gained as it attempts to lock when in 3rd..Im hoping that if I raise the shift points that it will hide this problem until I have time to deal with it.
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1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 393,000km Excellent fuel economy!

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Old 10-23-2009, 12:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Just change the fipl to be safe, it is a cheap part, and only lasts about 50k miles. 1.1 on idle, and 3.8 at WOT is good. if you can't hit that, put the new one in. Yes it does control the shift points, and firmness. If it is out of spec, the shifts go to long, and that tends to wear out the trany even faster.
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Old 10-23-2009, 12:35 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I set it to 0.8v at idle. Then adjust the throttle max travel screw to get MINIMUM 4.1v @ WOT. This will not affect the max engine speed.
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Old 10-23-2009, 12:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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do you get firm shifts at 0.8?
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1984 F-250 6.9, T-19, BW1345, D70 rear end. solid truck.

1984 toyota BJ60 Landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 503,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels

1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 393,000km Excellent fuel economy!

1983 Mercedes 300d, low mileage.....gorgeous!
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I don't I need to set my to 1.1 to get a firm shift, less then that is to slow for me. It may vary depending on your trans. Mine is original with 170k miles.
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Old 10-23-2009, 11:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok I replace my FIPL today...$55. anyways I have it set at 1.1v-3.7v, it won't achieve 3.8 at W.O.T unless i jump up to 1.2v at idle.
torque converter still acting up. and shifts seem a bit smoother I think,
But im not really happy with it, im going to have to play with it some more.

Oh and I also replaced my speedometer sensor and gear unit at the end of the cable at the transfer case. just thought id mention it is all
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1984 F-250 6.9, T-19, BW1345, D70 rear end. solid truck.

1984 toyota BJ60 Landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 503,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels

1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 393,000km Excellent fuel economy!

1983 Mercedes 300d, low mileage.....gorgeous!
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Old 10-24-2009, 12:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Pull the toque converter cover and see if it is all blue in color? If it is it has been overheated. I replaced mine with a billet torque converter, it doesn't act up any more. The torque converters on our trucks are kind of flimsy from the factory. Check yours out if it is clunking when it locks, or chattering, or not locking up right in general.
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Old 10-24-2009, 07:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
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When it's wet out I still get an occasional lock and unlock of the TC. Electrical gremlins I assume. When it's dry all is well. Try R&R the wire harness plug on the pass side of the trans to clean the terminals.
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Old 10-24-2009, 09:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Pull the toque converter cover and see if it is all blue in color? If it is it has been overheated.
Caution with this comment....... he has a rebuilt trans and some/most rebuilders I have delt with paint them Ford BLUE.
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Old 10-24-2009, 01:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well, if it is painted that would be obvious. I am talking about a rainbowed blue color of the metal.
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1993 F350 Crew Cab 4x4 7.3l IDI E4OD No Turbo
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1987 E250 Quadravan 4x4 6.9 IDI C6 Banks Turbo, Gearvendor, and U.S. Gear Exhaust Brake
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Old 10-24-2009, 06:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The T.C is red. with no discoloration, and has been replaced when trans was rebuilt. I think its just a stock converter though. The truck has not been worked hard or abused at all since rebuild...about 30,000miles ago. I don't notice any shuddering, it seems to operate quite normally, as it should with such low mileage, just unlocking and locking rapidly until speed increases to a point at which it stays locked. Everything is great other than that!
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1984 F-250 6.9, T-19, BW1345, D70 rear end. solid truck.

1984 toyota BJ60 Landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 503,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels

1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 393,000km Excellent fuel economy!

1983 Mercedes 300d, low mileage.....gorgeous!
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Old 10-24-2009, 06:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Remember do not rest your foot on the brake pedal, that unlocks the TC.
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Old 10-24-2009, 09:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Lol I just recently discovered that as I tapped the brakes to warn the person behind me of a hazard up ahead. but this isn't what im doing.
Im heading out for a few days tomorrow with the truck and a slide in camper..a heavy one. I won't be online until I return so I look forward to discussing and hopefully curing this issue when get back. If the truck makes it...

Thanks Gentlemen!
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1984 F-250 6.9, T-19, BW1345, D70 rear end. solid truck.

1984 toyota BJ60 Landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 503,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels

1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 393,000km Excellent fuel economy!

1983 Mercedes 300d, low mileage.....gorgeous!
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Old 10-25-2009, 03:09 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Check the brake switch as well as the MLPS. Confirm the MLPS is lined up when the trans is shifted into neutral. A bad MLPS can cause this problem as well. Any codes? What about the tach sensor? The converter should lockup around 37mph IIRC.
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Old 10-31-2009, 11:32 AM   #15 (permalink)
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The MLPS is bang on and its recently replaced trying to deal with previous tranny issues.
Im now pretty sure that it might be the fluttering speedo/cable because that is the only that is getting worse rapidly along with the converter, which is now to the point where is almost not drivable...it just going crazy. The speedo is doing the same.
So im going to swap out the speedo cable as I already replaced the gear and sensor unit at the transfer case. and replaced the vss, if that has anything to do with it.
The tach sensor is new(pricey) and is now working perfectly.

Any tricks to getting at the speedo cable in these things? its the truck in sig.
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1984 F-250 6.9, T-19, BW1345, D70 rear end. solid truck.

1984 toyota BJ60 Landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 503,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels

1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 393,000km Excellent fuel economy!

1983 Mercedes 300d, low mileage.....gorgeous!
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