FIPL adjustment

[Kevin 007]

So the speedo cable is going to take a few days to arrive, so I pulled the dash apart and pulled the speedo cable and cleaned and oiled it reinstalled and still a little fluttery and same issues with the shifting. I was on a 200mile work trip today and the tranny/tc was unbearable, I pulled the speedo cable right out of the gear/sensor unit in the transfer case to eliminate any possible cable related sticky spots or whatever is causing it to flutter. This toned things down enough to get me home, but its still acting weird, tc trys to lock up randomly like before but doesn't completely lock, so it pretty well always running unlocked and rpms always going up and down ever so slightly as it trys to lock but doesn't.
This is strange because doesn't the PCM receive the speed signal from the gear/sensor unit in the t-case?? why would pulling the speedo cable(eliminating cable related problems) create a difference in behavior in the tranny? Does the PCM receive a speed signal from somewhere else? I would hapily run without a speedo if it cured any shifting problems.

Im hoping I didn't cook the tc!!!

I have the batteries disconnected tonight in hopes to reset something for tomorrow because the truck is needed for work. I have no choice but to drive it.

What else could this be guys...I really need advise! The VSS maybe?? even though its new. Its drivin me NUTS
Is this the correct harness replacement kit that I need? TCI 377508 TCU Wiring Harness for Ford E4OD 1989-'94:eBay Motors (item 170235209478 end time Nov-23-09 15:25:42 PST)
Im running out of things to replace

[Kevin 007]

Could my solenoid pack be toast again? There is only about 8000miles on it though.
Where do you guys buy scanners for your rigs? Im getting tired of bringing it into the shop to get scanned every couple weeks when something goes haywire with this trans. Lol

[Snotzalot]

Perhaps you have a bad brake light switch and it's causing your brake lights to go on and unlock the TC.

[rotaryboots]

You need that speed sensor on the transfer case to work perfectly. Often times the jumping speedo isn't cable related at all. There is a plastic gear on the end of the speed sensor that does wear out and is held on by a C clip and it also comes in many different number teeth and colors. I have a Yellow speed sensor gear that iirc is a 14 tooth. Also that gear meshes with another plastic gear on the trasfer case shaft and it too wears out. Its a little harder to replace being you have to drop the driveline, remove the transfer case output cover and the plastic gear is held on my a ball bearing that sits behind the gear and the gear also goes on the opposite of what you'd expect. the ball bearing holds it in place and is what turns it. If you put the gear on like you would normally think it would go by just sliding on then it can also slide off in the case and that ball bearing can't be good rattling around in that case when it falls of the shaft. The gear has to get pushed and sorta locks on the ball reversed. (hard to explain) but the ball will fit in the notch on the gear but won't be able to slide off. So both those parts are around 7-12 dollars from the dealer and they will most likely have it in stock. Check into that before you get a head ache from wondering why the speedo is so fustrating. The entire TCU (trans control unit) revolves around the engine speed (tach sensor), the fipl for throttle input and gear changing, and of course the speed sensor to know how fast its going and when to lock that TC.

[Kevin 007]

I appreciate you time!! My gear/sensor unit on the end of the speedo cable that plugs into the transfer case is new, the transfer case was just swapped in two months ago...I wish I pulled the tail housing to replace the gear at that time. But still, its a low mileage t-case and the old 350,000mile t-case had no issues with the speedo. Ive swapped on some different used gears at the end of speedo cable to no avail.
I guess im going to be pulling that t-case again....

How about the VSS? does it have anything to do with it? its new also.

And to snotzalot...I have checked the brake switch and monitored the brake lights closely and everything seems to be functioning properly.

[Kevin 007]

Ok So I got my NEW speedo cable in the casing and just through it in. I got another speedometer head from a wrecking yard, installed that as well. And Lo and Behold the speedometer is smooth, seems a little slower than actual speed, but whatever...its smooth. And the tranny is shifting through all the gears very well again, just like it used to. however...the torque converter is not locking up now! It feels like its about to after shifting into 3rd, rpms kind of drop just a tad...but it doesn't lock up. Revs are much higher at cruising speed.
Im stumped again Any ideas?

But its now drivable and I can use it for work which is great.

[rotaryboots]

hmm maybe take a look at the main trans connector on the pass. side of the trans. You've probably already read that they can be pain from time to time. I suggest cleaning out the connector and the conntacts the best you can and then apply di-electric grease to the plug to block out any moisture. You could also try disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes which will clear out the TCU. I don't think its in limp mode or anything but who knows maybe clearing the TCU will help. Otherwise,

your trans would behave really bad if the VSS on the transfer case where the speedo connects into was faulty and you say the TC's just not locking so it can't really be that. When you are cruising at 60 or so and press the brake how much did the rpms come up when the TC was working? I'm almost out of ideas cause everything is functioning but the TC isn't but was when things were wrong...

[Kevin 007]

Rpms just barely come up as I tap the brake, almost like the TC is halfways locked or something. I even disconnected the brake switch and parking brake switch and tried running it that way...no difference in behaviour. I have disconnected batteries as well, but to no avail. That has worked for previous issues though!
Im going to try and r&r that plug into the solenoid pack tomorrow with some grease you speak of. Im gonna order a harness plug repair kit too on eBay, just to prevent future problems. Which Im sure I'll have LOL

Thanks rotaryboots! I know its a dull topic with lots of thinking and brain racking involved, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Im starting to learn these stubborn old E40ds now!! What ever happend to the C6 eh? LOL

[Kevin 007]

Hey did as you said Rotaryboots! R&R, clean, dry and di-electric grease on the connector for solenoid pack and the torque converter locks again...


So now its almost back to normal..the TC still haunts once or twice before it completely locks but it seems SO much better than before im not overly concerned about it at this moment.
The FIPL is now set at 1.2v-3.8v. Thats where everything functions the best.

[jim x 3]

Kevin,

Excuse my ignorance, but what is a FIPL?

thanks,

[Snotzalot]

Throttle position Switch TPS, Fuel Injection Position Lever FIPL, same thing. Tells the trans where your right foot is.

[Kevin 007]

Ya...like a kickdown linkage

[jim x 3]

Thanks guys -