freeze plug help - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Go Back   Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Ford Diesels > 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)

7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

TheDieselstop.com is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-16-2009, 06:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Pearson, Georgia
Posts: 177
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
freeze plug help

The cause of a coolant leak was the freeze plug on the back of the motor on the drivers side. It is bulged out slightly on one side. What would cause this. I need to replace this freeze plug but need specific info as I had to pull tranny/tcase/clutch/starter/adapter plate to get to it. I tried briefly to punch a hole with cutting torch but decided to stop when the stainless steel didnt melt quickly as I was hoping. Drilling a hole with a drill bit or a carbide burr would be my next choice so that I can pull the plug without beating on it with a punch and hammer. This is new territory to me so any and all help is appreciated as I sure need it!!!!
__________________
1989 F-250 4x4 C-6 7.3
1989 F-250 4x4 C-6 7.3
1991 F-250 4x4 E-4OD 7.3
1989 F-350 4x4 5 speed manuel 7.3 (present project truck)
1989 F-350 4x4 E-4OD 7.3 (4 door) (future project)
John deere 450C Crawler
Ford 6610 4x4 Tractor
Diamond Rio Dump Truck
Chevy Dump Truck
International Semi
remote is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-16-2009, 07:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Central Valley, Ca.
Posts: 15,096
My Photos: (7)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
I wouldn't try to drill it. You have to have the steadiness of a brain surgeon not to go thru and hit the block/cylinder wall. I normaly use a flathead screwdriver and with a hammer, hit it at the bottom edge of the "cup". the plug may turn and then you can grab it with a pair of locking pliers. If the screwdriver punches a hole through it then you can use the small pointed end of a prybar or a bigger screwdriver to get it out.
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

PM please not visitor message
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-16-2009, 08:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
asauer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Decatur, IN
Posts: 1,080
My Photos: (4)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via MSN to asauer Send a message via Skype™ to asauer
You'd have to drill pretty far/hard to go clear in and hit the cylinder wall, then to do any damage other than a tiny scuff.
But like chuckster said- beat on the edges with a screwdriver to flip it, then grab on with some vice grips or the like and yank it out. Just don't shove it back into the block- that makes it not fun to remove.
__________________
1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
--motor/trans sold--

2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg






Member of Indiana Air National Guard 122FW MXS
asauer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-16-2009, 08:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Central Valley, Ca.
Posts: 15,096
My Photos: (7)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by asauer View Post
You'd have to drill pretty far/hard to go clear in and hit the cylinder wall, then to do any damage other than a tiny scuff.
But like chuckster said- beat on the edges with a screwdriver to flip it, then grab on with some vice grips or the like and yank it out. Just don't shove it back into the block- that makes it not fun to remove.
I agree the odds of hitting any internals and causing damage is probably small, but you never know how big a drill bit and drill someone is going to use. I just threw it out there to make a point, kind of like CYA advise....
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

PM please not visitor message
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-16-2009, 09:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
asauer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Decatur, IN
Posts: 1,080
My Photos: (4)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via MSN to asauer Send a message via Skype™ to asauer
Haha so true, not saying you would, remote, but you never know I suppose.
Does anyone know how hard it is to get the freeze plugs to seal back up in these motors? I know it can be a problem in some...
__________________
1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
--motor/trans sold--

2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg






Member of Indiana Air National Guard 122FW MXS
asauer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2009, 05:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Snotzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Pocono Mountains, PA
Posts: 4,190
My Photos: (5)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
If it gets knocked into the block, leave it there, don't go crazy trying to remove one stuck inside the block.
__________________
Regards,

Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA
02 E350 15 Passenger Cream Puff, 72,000 Miles, 5.4L Gasser

'90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 420K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, No ELC! (Extended Life Coolant) & 10 Oz. Bars Stop Leak. 10 wonderful cool years using Freeze12 without any AC system modifications. Retired 11/8/2011 with blown trans.


Drunk Driving - America's #1 Form Of Terrorism!
Snotzalot is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2009, 05:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
asauer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Decatur, IN
Posts: 1,080
My Photos: (4)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Send a message via MSN to asauer Send a message via Skype™ to asauer
You don't think it would hurt anything? I would be a little uneasy about leaving it in there- I guess it would just be on my conscience lol. I suppose it wouldn't hurt the coolant flow to the cylinder walls...
__________________
1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
--motor/trans sold--

2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg






Member of Indiana Air National Guard 122FW MXS
asauer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2009, 06:05 AM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Snotzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Pocono Mountains, PA
Posts: 4,190
My Photos: (5)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Won't hurt a thing.
__________________
Regards,

Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA
02 E350 15 Passenger Cream Puff, 72,000 Miles, 5.4L Gasser

'90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 420K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, No ELC! (Extended Life Coolant) & 10 Oz. Bars Stop Leak. 10 wonderful cool years using Freeze12 without any AC system modifications. Retired 11/8/2011 with blown trans.


Drunk Driving - America's #1 Form Of Terrorism!
Snotzalot is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2009, 08:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Cody, Wy
Posts: 9,708
My Photos: (27)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Are they cup type or convex type? If they're convex, you won't knock them into the coolant passage because they seat against a lip. I've always knocked a hole in them with a sharp punch, then used whatever it took, like Chuckster posted, to pry them out. Whatever you use, don't gouge the sealing surface on the block or you'll be in a world of hurt.
Quote:
Does anyone know how hard it is to get the freeze plugs to seal back up in these motors?
No problemo if you put them in right and use the right sealer. In all the shops I worked in for over 3 decades, replacing freeze plugs was part of an overhaul after hot tanking the block and I can't remember any of us have a leaker.
__________________
Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
LMJD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2009, 03:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Pearson, Georgia
Posts: 177
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Looks like factory

The frreze plugs I think are the ones that came from the factory. they all have a dimple in the center. The replacement plug I have to go into the block is looks like the ones in the block but doesnt have the dimple it came from a IH dealer. I read on some old post by searching freeze plugs and someone mentioned that the dimple is caused by a special tool for these plugs that seals them. Too Much and it wont seal and not enough and it wont seal. I called local IH dealer today and they said they dont use special tool. I called local another IH dealer ane got the same story. The plugs in the block have a funny looking dimple in them and my replacement does not. I sure would like to know what to do because the trouble of removing the tranny etc if this plug dont seal will be great.
Looking for the Answer. thanks
__________________
1989 F-250 4x4 C-6 7.3
1989 F-250 4x4 C-6 7.3
1991 F-250 4x4 E-4OD 7.3
1989 F-350 4x4 5 speed manuel 7.3 (present project truck)
1989 F-350 4x4 E-4OD 7.3 (4 door) (future project)
John deere 450C Crawler
Ford 6610 4x4 Tractor
Diamond Rio Dump Truck
Chevy Dump Truck
International Semi
remote is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2009, 04:37 PM   #11 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: iowa-usa
Posts: 4,067
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
rldsl---has spoken of using the right tool--he has one--if you dont use it--ask him what happened to his soft plug--in spite of others peoples comments---
__________________
94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
94_turbo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-17-2009, 06:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
cdnsarguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Neepawa, Manitoba Canada
Posts: 20,671
My Photos: (109)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I believe I would have taken the truck to IH and had them do it..... their work would have some recourse/warranty should it pop out and cook the engine........
__________________
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93

Toys: 2006 37' Triple E Embassy coach (powered by Cummins), 18' Sylvan Pro Fish with Mariner motors.

Proud Canadian BOOB man too!!

Please PRIVATE MESSAGE only!! ...
Please DO NOT.....visitor message me...
cdnsarguy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-18-2009, 07:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Cody, Wy
Posts: 9,708
My Photos: (27)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
I called local IH dealer today and they said they dont use special tool. I called local another IH dealer ane got the same story.
Right, a special tool isn't needed, but a little "mechanical appitude" is. First, after you've got the old plug out, take some sandpaper or whatever and clean all the scale and crud from around the hole. Take a small screwdriver and clean ALL the scale from the lip area where the plug actually seals and makes contact. Get a can of what's called Aviation Permatex, the brown stuff. Put some on the edges of the plug and on the sealing surface of the hole. After you set the plug in the hole, you take the proper size ball peen hammer (big plug, bigger ball end on the hammer) and center the ball of the hammer at the center of the plug. Then, with another heavy hammer, smack the face of the ball peen hammer not too hard, but not too soft, and presto, you've dimpled the plug and expanded it tightly in it's bore forever more.

Quote:
if you dont use it--ask him what happened to his soft plug--in spite of others peoples comments---
It's not rocket science, key thing is you have to know what you're doing, and do it right, like cdnsarguy just said, if you don't feel confident doing it, maybe you can get it to a shop somehow.
Another option is if your town is fairly large, you probably have a mobil diesel mechanic (does work on the road, etc.) and he'd probably charge an hour's labor at most if you had everything ready for him and had him come out.
__________________
Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.

Last edited by LMJD; 02-18-2009 at 08:41 AM.
LMJD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-18-2009, 05:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 819
My Photos: (13)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
The special tool is ford Rotunda tool # 303-D045 Expansion Plug Replacer
Call 1-800-ROTUNDA ( the number rings through to OTC/SPX tools) and yes it is required. The engineers would not have designed it nor would the manual specify it's use if that were not the case. The tool ensures that the plug is dimpled just the right amount while keeping the shape of the outer rim from becoming inverted, keeping everything in perfect position where it will stay in place. There is simply no way you can accomplish all of this without the tool. Eyeballing and artistic license are great for things like decorating cakes, but they have no place in rebuilding engines.

The freeze plugs are ford part #E3TZ6026A and list price is $0.97 ea
Either get them from Ford or from International, but nowhere else, aftermarket plugs are shaped differently and will behave differently in the tool, they also are not finished as well on the edges, the factory plugs have smooth well finished edges.
__________________
'92 F-350 Crew Cab dually,7.3 5 spd+ 3 speed Spicer 5831 Brownie, Solid Flywheel w 12 1/4" Kevlar Clutch, ATS turbo, Hypermax Cowl induction, MS Tech Fan Clutch, Custom Aluminum Rodney Red Radiator, 4" Exhaust, Air seat, Western Hauler bed. My Gallery
RLDSL is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-18-2009, 10:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Cody, Wy
Posts: 9,708
My Photos: (27)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
There is simply no way you can accomplish all of this without the tool. Eyeballing and artistic license are great for things like decorating cakes, but they have no place in rebuilding engines.
I guess that depends on your mechanical expertise, or more importantly, the lack thereof. Like the OP posted, the cake decorators at two IH shops he checked with, plus myself and any shops I worked in never had a problem using the standard procedure. I'm glad you got the job done with the help of the tool. It's handy in your case that Ford sells a tool, but in the real world, (truck shops), for some odd reason you'd find all engine mfgrs vary soft plug bores by as small as a 1/32" of an inch difference in diameter so a shop would have more tools than Paris Hilton if they had to grab one every time they put in a soft plug since they run from as small as 1/2" to 3" dia. The OP can install it any way he chooses.
Quote:
There is simply no way you can accomplish all of this without the tool.
Well, if that was the case, I'd of had more leakers than I can count, not to mention the other 12+ mechanics I worked with for 3 decades. Just how many have you installed?
__________________
Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.

Last edited by LMJD; 02-19-2009 at 06:48 AM.
LMJD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Ford Diesels > 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Wheel & Tire Center

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:44 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.