I have some noises with my kingpin style dana 60. It came from a 89 F350, so I'm posting here. I put it under my 96 F250. They are scaring me. I don't experience any noises when the hubs are free.
Noise #1: This noise occurs when the truck is in 2wd with the hubs locked. It occurs if my warn hubs Locked in. If they are turned to free, the noise is gone. When I first lock the hubs, the noise is quieter, but it gets loud after about 1 mile of driving. What could cause this "churning" noise? It is too loud to be normal. It is annoyingly loud. I couldn't imagine having them locked in at highway speeds. This is a continuous noise when the hubs are locked in, and the TC is in 2wd.
Noise #2: This noise occurs when I am in 4x4. The noise happens when I "let off" and "get back on" the throttle. I will be accelerating and when I "let off", there will be a grinding noise. Then, when I hit the pedal to accelerate, it makes the weird noise again. This is not a continuous noise.
What could be causing these noises?
Thanks
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1996 F250 4x4 (4.10 gears)
Regular Cab - 8' Bed - Black and Silver two-tone
Only one mod so far: no door dinger, im also trying to figure out the d60 swap but the list of crap i need keeps getting longer!
Sorry if this is too bacic, but have you checked the oil level in the diff? You could also try draining it and see if there are metal shavings in the oil.
Happy new year
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1986 Ford F-250 4x4, 150K Miles - 6.9 IDI/C6 Auto/33" BFGs
MY TTB D50 does the exact same thing. I am suspecting the driveshaft on mine. Do you have the Double-cardan type shaft from the F350, or just the standard 2-joint shaft?
I don't remember where I saw it, but I think there is a TSB on this.
Dana axles do use a different lubrication than Ford axles.... sounds wierd but that is mentioned in the manual.
Axle Lubrication, Rear
The ability of any rear axle to deliver quiet, trouble-free operation over a period of years is largely dependent upon the use of good quality gear lubricants. To make sure gears and bearings will last as long as possible, use only specified hypoid gear lubricants.
Dana and Ford rear axles use different lubricants as follows:
Ford requires ESP-M2C154-A (E0AZ-19580-AA)
Dana requires ESW-M2C105-A (C6AZ-19580-E)
It is recommended that the lube be replaced in all rear axles at 100,000 mile intervals, or if the rear axle has been submerged in water, or more often under certain extreme conditions. High Performance Rear Axle Lubricant F1TZ-19580-B (WSL-M2C191-A) is available for repairs and refills in situations that fall into the severe or extreme use categories. Refer to maintenance schedules.
Dana front drive axles have different lubrication requirements for different applications.
F-150-250 requires WSL-M2C191-A (F1TZ-19580-A)
F-350 requires ESW-M2C105A (C6AZ-19580-E or equivalent)
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When hubs are locked in you are turning everything up to and including the transfer case output shaft..... check it for lubrication also.....ATF mercon for it.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
It sounds to me like the u-joint at the wheel is gone. Get down there with some prying device and see if it moves.
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1990 F-350 Dually 4X4 CC Rebuilt Turbo and NEW 7.3L DAS engine, rebuilt rear diff, Reman E4OD Stage 1 injectors Stage 1 pump Baumann recal kit and TDC for E4OD dead trans again...
2004 F-350 4X4 CC 6.0 PSD
2004 Wilderness 320dbhs TT
Do the u-joints only make noise when the hubs are locked? I'm reading alot on these forums and i keep getting confused.
Could my problem be wheel bearings, hubs, spindle bearings...etc???
Noise#1 has to be something that only moves when the hubs are locked. So should I just grad the axle u-joints with my bare hands and try to twist/move/jar/jiggle???
When the hubs are free, I don't get any noises at all. My fluids are all good.
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1996 F250 4x4 (4.10 gears)
Regular Cab - 8' Bed - Black and Silver two-tone
Only one mod so far: no door dinger, im also trying to figure out the d60 swap but the list of crap i need keeps getting longer!
The axles only turn when the hubs are locked in or the transfer case is in 4 wheel drive. Wheel, hubs and spindle bearings all are working in both 2 and 4 wheel drive. Sounds like an axle or driveline u joint.
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'94 F250 IDI 4X4 5 speed. New to me in '03. . "A" pillor guages ATS Turbo upgrade 3" down pipe, exhuast and coolant filter.
Another vote for axle/driveline u-joints etc. Just to be clear the spindle bearings are not a factor unless in 4WD on T/C or the hubs are locked. When was the last time the double cardan joint was lubed (with the "needle") since that is a common issue.
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1988 F350 CC 4x4 SRW, 7.3 Banks non-wastegated turbo, C6 w/ HD torque converter, Tru-Cool 4590 trans cooler, Highjacker 'softride' 4" lift, pre/post luber, coolant filter, Racor fuel filter/separator, pyro and boost gauges, Progressive 16x8 wheels, 285-75x16 rubber, 3" downpipe into 4" straight pipe over the rear axle and into 5" SS tip. 1994 Alpenlite 33' 5th wheel trailer
I don't have any noises when hubs are free and in 2wd. BUT, when I get out and lock the hubs in, then I get bad noises (2wd).
Noise#2 is when im running around on snow or gravel in 4x4. It happens when I let off the gas or get back on it. It just happens for maybe 1 second as I either begin to hit the gas or begin to let off.
So it actually could be spindle bearings for both noises??? but probably is u-joints on the axle?.. or u-joints on the driveshaft?????
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1996 F250 4x4 (4.10 gears)
Regular Cab - 8' Bed - Black and Silver two-tone
Only one mod so far: no door dinger, im also trying to figure out the d60 swap but the list of crap i need keeps getting longer!
Not saying it's spindle bearings, just that they are 'working' when the hubs are locked or the T/C is in 4WD so they are in the equation.
It's interesting in your first post where the noise seems to get worse after you drive it a bit (something warms up). Try locking the front hubs in and leaving the T/C in 2WD and then take the driveshaft and rotate it back and forth to see how much slop there is. While you're there check the u-joints and try to move the double cardan joint from side to side as well.
To check the axle u-joints just lock the hub and then get a bar and try to move the diff side of the axle to see if there is any movement in the u-joint.
Does the noise change at all when you are turning a corner?
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1988 F350 CC 4x4 SRW, 7.3 Banks non-wastegated turbo, C6 w/ HD torque converter, Tru-Cool 4590 trans cooler, Highjacker 'softride' 4" lift, pre/post luber, coolant filter, Racor fuel filter/separator, pyro and boost gauges, Progressive 16x8 wheels, 285-75x16 rubber, 3" downpipe into 4" straight pipe over the rear axle and into 5" SS tip. 1994 Alpenlite 33' 5th wheel trailer
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