Fuel Guage - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-10-2012, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel Guage

It's been awhile since I have had a problem but my fuel guage on my forward tank has stopped working. Two years ago, I replaced this tank and it has always been ok. Thinking that maybe I had a grounding problem, today I cleaned the tank ground with no success in getting the guage to work. I also checked the fuses.

When I replaced the tank, I was advised to just cut the fuel lines and use the shark type connector to reconnect rather than mess around with the o-rings and such. Obviously it looks like I have to go through this again, drop the tank and check the float. Can I just cut the lines again or should I attempt to disconnect at the switch? So much easier to cut the lines but reconnecting could be a problem.

If I leave the fuel switch off, can I still drive it without sucking air or losing fuel? It's getting colder and I want to do this job at my discretion.

1994 F250 HD, IDI Diesel, 3:55 gears, K&N filter, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Monroe HD SensaTrac shocks, dual pillar pod with temp & tranny guage, poly fuel tanks
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't mean to throw a problem at you that was be outside your expetise. I will let you know the outcome after I dig into this. Whatever happened to Pete?

1994 F250 HD, IDI Diesel, 3:55 gears, K&N filter, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Monroe HD SensaTrac shocks, dual pillar pod with temp & tranny guage, poly fuel tanks
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 04:58 PM
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I didn't have any trouble disconnecting and reconnecting my fuel lines. I used new plastic clips, you can usually get them in the HELP section. I didn't do anything with the O-Rings, which were fine. I may have polished some rust off of one of the projecting hard lines.

1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
1997 Audi A8 Quattro 225k Warm/Cold packages
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, I've looked at that area yesterday and it looks doable. I'm not too excited about laying on my back under the truck to drop the tank even though I've done it before. I have also considered pulling the bed off as I also want to install a Banks down pipe (3") that I purchased some time back. I'm toying with the idea of a flat bed. Again, thank you for your response.

1994 F250 HD, IDI Diesel, 3:55 gears, K&N filter, Hayden Tranny Cooler, Monroe HD SensaTrac shocks, dual pillar pod with temp & tranny guage, poly fuel tanks
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 11-13-2012, 07:19 AM
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You should pull the bed and service both tanks while you're there, especially if you haven't already had to replace your pickup feet. Propping up the bed (I stuck some 1" channel into the channel that's welded to the bottom of the bed) is easier than dropping the tank, at least if your carriage bolts aren't frozen.

1992 F250 XLT 4x4 Super Cab 7.3 IDI E40D 3.55 ATS 088 4"R.C 360k
1982 MBZ 300SD W126 California model w/Sunroof, no EGR
1997 Audi A8 Quattro 225k Warm/Cold packages
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