Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Neepawa, Manitoba Canada
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Here is how to....
First disconnect steel injector line cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away individually enough to just get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new assembled return lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the steel line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or steel line cap nut is not aligned correctly or tight. I have done several sets and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite sides the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, then 2 minute cool down....mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93
Toys: 2006 37' Triple E Embassy coach (powered by Cummins), 18' Sylvan Pro Fish with Mariner motors.
Proud Canadian BOOB man too!!
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