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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 03-11-2011, 09:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Fuel injector caps and return lines

Hey I was wondering if i should replace my fuel injector caps and return lines myself or if i should have a mechanic do it. Is it an easy process, if so i could use some good advice on replacing them.

Thanks!
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Very much a do it yourself sort of repair. Just use the old set as a template and take your time. Lots of threads on here that describe the process. If you can't find one just post and I will try to give you a step by step.
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Old 03-12-2011, 03:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I have been looking and I can't find any threads that have good directions. Once I replace everything do I need to clear the air out of the lines or anything before I start it?
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Here is how to....

First disconnect steel injector line cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away individually enough to just get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.

After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new assembled return lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the steel line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or steel line cap nut is not aligned correctly or tight. I have done several sets and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite sides the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, then 2 minute cool down....mine started after 4th injector was on line.

Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.
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Old 03-12-2011, 10:00 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks Pete

I was on my iPhone when I posted the last response.
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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check out my thread from a couple months back, it might help you

fuel return line kit? How easy?

and also search the 7.3idi board specifically for return line threads.. it helped me to look at old posts.

I messed up the kit the first time I did it. My mechanical skills aren't the best. Once I learn something I'm good... it's the first time that's hard.

Plus look at my other thread when I actually got it right the second time around
Thanks to this forum, I've sucessfully replaced my return lines and NO AIR!
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Old 03-13-2011, 12:45 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Do i need to worry about letting air out before i start it after i replace the lines?
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Old 03-13-2011, 07:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You might. I had to bleed just one injector line and then mine started right up (after the return kit.)
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Old 03-13-2011, 11:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I've done two return line kits on my E350 over years and didn't bother to bleed, started up fine both times with just a bit of cranking.
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Old 03-13-2011, 06:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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how do you know that it needs to be bleeded or which one needs it? also how do you bleed it?
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Old 03-13-2011, 07:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Air is eliminated from the filter head by opening the shrader while running/cranking until air stops coming out. You bleed the injector hard lines by cracking them until fuel bubbles out while cranking, then re-tightening... you will NOT get a lot of fuel. Once you are running the hard lines will purge but until you get fuel out of enough of them it may not run. You can use a remote start switch on the biggest terminals on the starter main relay (on the P/S inner fender) to crank... with park brake on and trans in P or N (as appropriate). You can also use a wrench as a remote start switch in a pinch.
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Old 03-13-2011, 09:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drinkypoo View Post
Air is eliminated from the filter head by opening the shrader while running/cranking until air stops coming out. You bleed the injector hard lines by cracking them until fuel bubbles out while cranking, then re-tightening... you will NOT get a lot of fuel. Once you are running the hard lines will purge but until you get fuel out of enough of them it may not run. You can use a remote start switch on the biggest terminals on the starter main relay (on the P/S inner fender) to crank... with park brake on and trans in P or N (as appropriate). You can also use a wrench as a remote start switch in a pinch.
Preferably a medium sized screwdriver with a plastic handle! I just cracked I think it was the #7 and #8 Lines until fuel came out. Make sure to disconnect your glowplug wire from the solenoid unless you want it to start while your working on it.(It may anyway)
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:59 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Are the hard lines you talk about the metal ones that feed from the pump to the injectors?

Also what is the shrader?
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Old 03-13-2011, 11:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yes, those are the hard lines.

The shrader valve is a valve like on your tires on the D/S of the filter head. It's the test and air bleeding port.

I've never had a problem shorting my starter relay with a wrench, I usually just use a 5/16. It doesn't even get hot on repeated 15 second cranking sessions to test the fuel pump and/or purge air.
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:57 AM   #15 (permalink)
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alright till try and look for the valve tomorrow morning.
is that the only thing i need to do after putting the new lines on, or do i really need to loosen the hard lines till the fuel bubbles out?

sorry and thanks for your patience, I am new with engines, but this looks like its simple enough i can do it without having to pay a mechanic, no offense to mechanics it just saves me more money.

Also i need to replace my driver side valve cover gasket. for that do i just unscrew the valve cover, take the old gasket off and put the new one on? Or is there more to it?
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