Do a pressure and volume test on the Lift Pump.....the flickering light indicates a vacuum in the filter header. Like PNOSE said either filter plugged, lift pump dieing or tank pickup could be broken if the fuel level in that tank is around 1/4 full.
Do pressure and flow test on the fuel pump at the Schrader valve on the filter (FSS- fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected). Remove the tire valve core and hook a hose and pressure guage on it should see 4-6 psi when cranking. Then do a fuel quantity test same place, should see 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of engine cranking, route fuel to a suitable container with a hose.
If there is a problem with the lift pump and you are changing it, ensure the new pump comes with instructions as to correct installation procedure if it is the newer model pump with the almost straight arm.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
My Motorcraft fuel filter is 1 year old (4,000 miles).
It isn't the Water in Fuel light (below the Wait to Start light), but the Fuel Filter light (next to the Brake light).
From what I've been reading in the archives, lots of other 7.3L owners with similar age and mileage are seeing the same symptoms. Also, if more people would post the results of their testing, others would have more knowledge of what the fixs are.
I'll drain any water from the filter and then do Pete's testing procedure.
Location is front pax corner of the lower block, you can use a socket/ratchet on the crankshaft bolt 15/16 I believe.
To ensure that the cam is at low position, it is necessary to use a mirror. Observe the cam through the mounting port and bump the engine around until a one (1) inch wide machine surface is observed. This is low position of the cam. Now complete normal fuel pump installation. Point is put the pump arm in straight so the pump flange contacts the block flat "not ****eyed then try to pull it flat with the bolts".
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
I bought a 5/8" flare nut wrench tonight, so I'm almost reading to roll.
I have to get this done by the weekend and I've never attempted a fuel pump before.
1. should I remove the vacuum pump to get at the fuel pump mounting bolts? Or just work from underneath?
2. I still don't understand when I know that my motor is in the low cam position? I should loosen the mounting bolts and then bump the engine around and wait until it feels loose?
Thanks much, Hugh
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1991 F250 XLT, 2WD, 7.3L IDI, 5 speed, 168K.
Just work from underneath, read the insructions above ...via the mirror and light, I use a 15/16 socket and ratchet/bar to rotate the crank clockwise.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
Years ago when I replaced my mechanical I worked from the top. I removed the vacuum pump for more room. I may have even removed the alternator but its long ago. I now have an electric Holley Red pump and it sure works nice.... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
Last night I did it [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
The fuel pump removal was the easy part. 5/8" flare nut wrench with a small extension for leverage made removing the brass fuel line easy. I didn't want to bust a knuckle to begin the job. The old fuel pump came out easy, didn't matter where the cam lobe was sitting (now I know what the low position looks like too).
Installation was a different story [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] I thought that I was going to quit as I couldn't get the bolts to start on both sides and I thought I might ruin the new gasket. Instead of quitting, I removed the vacuum pump and trying installing from above. That worked fine, it took me just under two hours working at a snail's pace. Now that I've done it, I should be able to do it next time in about one hour.
The TDS advice/help is awesome, I could not do it without all of your help. A special thanks to Pete for his consistant helpful posting to advise the newbie.
arrrrgggghhh [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] the fuel filter light is flickering again after I replaced the fuel pump. What do I do now?
I don't mind that I have a nice new fuel pump, but I still have a problem to solve.
Thanks,
Hugh
--well, I just read cdnsarguy 1st reply above, I guess I already have things to check [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]
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1991 F250 XLT, 2WD, 7.3L IDI, 5 speed, 168K.
try switchin tanks. the rpoblem might be in one tank adn not the other. good luck.........Gibson
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D.T.Gibson
1.830.203.1460
new newer rig: '05 greyish/balckish Ford F-350 XLT Lariat, Crew Cab, 6.0L PowerStroke, Fx4, Leather and all the electric goodies besides a moon roof, auto trans, 3:73's, leveling kit. SCT Looney Tune stacked with Edge Juice with Attitude, and 4" turbo back exhaust. 91K.... blew HPOP and headgaskets. In shop for now. maybe by the 8th ill have her back with new long block! sweet!
newer rig: late '99 Red Ford F-350 PowerStroke, 4x4, CC, 4r100 Auto Trans, 3:73's, Stage Coach Conversion, 4" DP to 5" up to 6" stack, aFe Stage II intake, DP Tuner 4pos chip, dFUSER oil crossover line, 10K mod, AIC controller, '06 18" King Ranch Wheels. 225K.
new rig: CUMMINS POWERED '95 F-350 XLT, crew cab, Blue & white, ZF5-speed, 4x4 with auto locking hubs, 4:10 gears, 283K miles, 3" DP to 5" exhaust, Auto Meter A-pillar 3-gauge pod with EGT, Water temp and oil pressure.
If it is flickering more when you first start it, start looking for air or vacuum leaks. I changed 2 filters and eventually a pinhole leak in the front tank sending unit made the truck run rough. I temporarily installed a piece of clear plastic tubing between the lift pump to the filter to see the air bubbles being pulled in. It took about 6 months/6000 miles between the flickering @ startup to get bad enough to affect the truck idle.
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1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually 4 Wheel Drive (Centurion Dually Conversion) 4.10 gears, 7.3 IDI Naturally Aspirated, E4OD with shift kit, Stock motor with glasspack/dynomax hemi magnum exhaust, and gutted soup bowl.