Fuel Return Line replacement - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Question Fuel Return Line replacement

The question i have is what all needs to be taken off to replace the fuel return T's Orings and hose's. will just taking off the air box be enough room or do you need to take the hard lines off and injector pump as well as the turbo? the truck is a 1994 7.3 IDI stock Turbo diesel. 4x4 Supercab if that matters.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 02:39 PM
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I have a 1994 IDI with factory turbo and just replaced the drivers side. I just removed the air box and was able to get to all of them. None on the pass. side were leaking so I didn't look at how to take them off, but the back one or two may be a PITA cause of the turbo. Hope this helps.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 02:41 PM
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i did it without removing my hard lines, just be carefull, i dont have a turbo model but i would bet that if you start working on it that you will find out real quick what needs to come off

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the advice so soon just trying to get a ruff idea how much time i need to set aside depending on where i do it too. also i have been looking for just a cold air intake for this truck does anyone know of any or do i just put a K&N in the stock air box?
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-18-2008, 05:01 PM
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Here is how to....
First disconnect steel injector line cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away individually enough to just get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done several sets and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best. Tighten lines then place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds max, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.

( return line kits/ injector install kit )
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