Fuel Return Line Replacement - Diesel Forum

My3sonsIHCandme · 03-21-2005, 03:36 PM

I am going to attempt to instal a fuel return line kit without tearing anything else up. Last week end I replaed the CDR and believe that I finished off an ailing plastic gadget on the injector closest to the firewall on the passenger side. I have the kit, but would appreciate any suggestions on how to accomplish the task without causing further injury. Some of my questions are:
1. Do the steel fuel lines have enough play to allow me to remove the plastic gadgets without breaking or bending them?
2. Is there a secret method to remove air from the system once I'm through?
3. Would a serious leak in my return system cause this beast to be difficult to start, (Cranks fine, but does not like to start), and then develop an audible skip while running?
I have read a lot of info from other posts but have yet to find answers to these questions. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Frustrated w/the fuel system. Please help, my boys are considering mutiny as they are not getting to ride in the ol' crew-cab.

My3sonsIHCandme · 03-21-2005, 04:54 PM

Is there anybody out there??? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

jrfastbanshee · 03-21-2005, 05:17 PM

My experience:
1)The steel lines will "flex" a little to allow cap removal. Be carefull not to bend them or they will be hard to get back on.
2)I just cranked my engine for about 15 seconds and it fired.
3)Absolutely on the hard to start...should cut cranking time down a bit. I don't think they would cause a skip though.

yaric008 · 03-21-2005, 05:26 PM

[ QUOTE ]
Do the steel fuel lines have enough play to allow me to remove the plastic gadgets without breaking or bending them?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes, you should be fine, just loosen up the steel line and just kinda lift it just a bit out of the way, it will give some, just don't yank it so much it bends it. If you want, you can loosen all the steel lines and remove all theh plastic caps at once. Just make sure to keep everything real clean around the area, if you get just a speck of dirt into the injectors that injector is screwed.

Once you get the plastic caps off you'll see two rubber O-rings, you'll need to yank those off, You can use a sharp dentist like tool if you have it, just be sure not to damage the metal on the actual injector. You can either roll those off kinda or just rip them, you don't need them any longer. To get the new O-rings on, use a little diesel or motor oil to lubricate them and then roll the first one on, then roll the second one over that one to the next slot. Push the new plastic cap on good and make sure you feel it seat. Sometimes you have to give it a little wiggle to get it down all the way. You'll feel it kindia pop on good. If the O-rings are lubricated well it should be easy. Then put your steel lines back on and install the new rubber hoses, and you should be good to go. Make sure to take notice of where the plastic caps are, there are some that are straight throughs and some that are Te's, just easier to notice at first so you don't have to dink with it after you start installing new ones.

[ QUOTE ]
Is there a secret method to remove air from the system once I'm through?

[/ QUOTE ]

The most common method if you have a mechcanical pump, IE factory pump, is after you have all your steel injector lines attatched, crack one loose a turn or so, crank the engine until fuel comes out of the line then tighten it back up. It will probably start up even with that one line cracked open, but it'll be stumbling, when you tighten it up it should be fine. I never really have an issue with starting it up after, it usually just starts up pretty quick. Watch when you crack that injector line though that you don't get chooped up with fuel spray, it's pressurized to about 1000 PSI.

[ QUOTE ]
Would a serious leak in my return system cause this beast to be difficult to start, (Cranks fine, but does not like to start), and then develop an audible skip while running?

[/ QUOTE ]

An air leak would cause hard starting, but an audible skip while running sounds like something else... unless the leak is reall really bad, but a leak from the return lines shouldn't be enough to cause a skip or miss.

My3sonsIHCandme · 03-21-2005, 05:38 PM

Thanks for the info guys.
I did not want to hear the last part though, because I definately have some sort of interuption in it's usual melodic diesel rumble. Any thoughts about what might cause such, or should I get the return line kit installed and see if I still have issues and then come back with more info?
By the way it is a mechanical pump and as far as I can tell everything on it is stock and probably original.
Any and all info is appreciated.

yaric008 · 03-21-2005, 05:47 PM

Well how bad is the miss, can you feel or, can you just hear it? Is it regular, or does it just happen randomly. A slight shake isn't anything bad, but if feels like an entire cylinder is missing then you have a problem.

If it just a slight miss could just be a faulty injector or maybe time for a rebuilt injection pump.

jayf63 · 03-21-2005, 05:51 PM

The steel lines are easier to move out of the way and put back on without cross-threading if you loosen the anti-vibration clamps a bit. Just remember to retighten them [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

My3sonsIHCandme · 03-21-2005, 06:09 PM

I feel certain that a rebuilt IP is in my not-to-distance future, just hoping it will hang on for a couple of more months. I have not driven the truck in over a week, I've been out of town. I will repost later in the week and have more info. I appreciate the input.

Thanks,
Denver.

My3sonsIHCandme · 03-21-2005, 06:12 PM

Sounds like a good suggestion, maybe I won't break anything else. My luck has been kind of schlep-rock like lately, so I want to take my time and get this right.
Thanks again.

argve · 03-22-2005, 02:27 AM

Yes an air leak can cause the engine to skip a beat - just ask Jon (Freight_train) [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img] The Enterprise when she was loaded on Bill's (oldmisterbill) trailer when she was bound for 'Bama she was a hopping and a skipp'n (bad leak on driver's side - caps were stretched). No they were not pouring fuel out but yes an air leak can cause a rough idle. She was a royal pain to start and would fog up the housing association (white smoke) before she left. So don't discount the air leak syndrome...

SyCoRex · 03-24-2005, 04:15 PM

Argve,
when the truck warmed up did the rattle at idle stop but the truck still smoke? My truck started smoking like a chimney with white smoke and i have yet to figure out what it is.

argve · 03-24-2005, 07:24 PM

Yep. But the smoke was not excessive (but that's open to interpetation (sp?)