Oil and filter changed - used Rotella 15w40 and a Fram Oil filter. Let me know if the Fram filter was a mistake.
Coolant changed- The PO who owned the vehicle for 2 years and 14k miles used regular antifreeze, no SCAs present. Flushed system with distlled water. Used 2 gallons Zerex precharge (green) and 2 gallon regular green antifreeze with 2 pints of DCA4. Will test later this week. I lost my color card for the test strip kit already. :-(
Will replace autolite glowplugs with Motorcraft ZD-9 that I purchased from Autozone for $9 per plug, which seemed reasonable.
Some questions on changing Glow plugs:
How do you manually turn the engine? I have to guess that manually turning a diesel engine must be tough (and possibly dangerous) due to high compression.
Please describe exactly, what tool to use, where to connect it, should I be disconnecting any belts?, disconnecting any electrical connections (battery, ...)
Is there a specific spot on the timing mark where I'm supposed to align the harmonic balancer? I'm used to gasoline engines where the timing is set to a specific value like 8 degrees before TDC
Any suggestions on a good book for my truck? Should I just get a haynes manual?
Sorry I'm such a newb, but I would hate to screw up a pretty good running diesel by changing the GPs.
Thanks,
Pigseye
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1990 F250 Extended Cab, 7.3L IDI, No turbo, Auto transmission, 215K miles, lots of rust!
1994 F250 Extended Cab, 7.3L IDI, Turbo, Auto transmission, 158K miles, very little rust
Important to blow away the loose dirt and grime from each hole prior to removal. Do one at a time, post questions as you run into difficulty, don't force anything. Haynes, Chilton (that is the one that I have) or the Ford shop manual (best and most $$$) are excellent help for most repairs, but I don't think there is much about GP removal or install.
Go easy on the GP wires, they are metal connectors with plastic coverings, as they age the plastic gets brittle, but they still work fine.
Others will chime in about turning over the engine, I didn't choose to do that.
--Hugh
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1991 F250 XLT, 2WD, 7.3L IDI, 5 speed, 168K.
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Oil and filter changed - used Rotella 15w40 and a Fram Oil filter. Let me know if the Fram filter was a mistake.
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The Fram filter should be ok, but it is definitely not the best filter out there. Back in high school (about 10 years ago) in autos class they had several oil filters cut in half to see the differences in the filters. The one with the best filtering properties was a napa filter (probably napa gold now made by wix I believe) and the worst was fram. I try to stay away from fram filters for this reason, but take this FWIW. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
Go get yourself a Motorcraft FL1995, which is the PowerStroke filter. It has a finer filter media and is longer to hold more oil. It will fit almost all IDI's. One my wrecker I do have to push a metal line over a little to get the longer filter started.
Just thinking about a fram oil filter gives me the heebie-jeebies.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
As everyone else is telling you, There are better filters than Fram. The Fram filters regularly finish at the bottom of filtration testing. Wix/Napa regularly finish at the top.
Well the Fram filter I used came with the truck so why not. Plus I don't expect to leave it in very long. I'm going to change the oil when the weather turns colder to 10w30 and switch to something else. I'll check out the Motorcraft PSD filter.
The fuel filter is Motorcraft. I'll stick with that when i cahnge it out at the next oil change.
Re. Glow Plugs:
The glow plugs installed are Autolite and I'm very worried that many are burnt out and swollen. I want to do everything possible to minimize risk during the change over to motorcraft.
I've read zigsters write up, here's an excerpt
The really important thing to do is to make sure that you follow the firing order when pulling the glow plugs. For each cylinder you are working on, make sure you have that piston at T.D.C. as you pull the glow plugs.Start at #1 and move the crank 1/4 rev clockwise each time to move to the next cylinder in line. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.
So, how do you manually turn the engine? What tools do you use?
thanks
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1990 F250 Extended Cab, 7.3L IDI, No turbo, Auto transmission, 215K miles, lots of rust!
1994 F250 Extended Cab, 7.3L IDI, Turbo, Auto transmission, 158K miles, very little rust
I plan on disconnecting the batteries. is there anything else I should disconnect before manually turning the engine?
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1990 F250 Extended Cab, 7.3L IDI, No turbo, Auto transmission, 215K miles, lots of rust!
1994 F250 Extended Cab, 7.3L IDI, Turbo, Auto transmission, 158K miles, very little rust
That info is for glowplugs that have bent or swollen tips. Removing them causes the tip to break off, putting the piston at TDC is to have a small space while you try to blow out the glow plug tip.
I believe that if your truck is cold starting fine and the controller cycles normally, you shouldn't have a problem. I'd just unscrew them and see if they will pull out. If not, then I'd go to the trouble of finding TDC for that cylinder. Every Autolite doesn't melt, although there are enough that do to warrant replacement.
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Is the crankshaft bolt on the harmonic balancer?
I plan on disconnecting the batteries. is there anything else I should disconnect before manually turning the engine?
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It's the big bolt that holds the harmonic balancer to the crankshaft. Right in the middle of the big bottom pulley. It should turn over fairly easily with a long breaker bar or ratchet. You only get compression when the engine is turning fast, turning slow all the compression just leaks past the piston ring gaps.
No need to disconnect the batteries unless you really want to. You SHOULD disconnect the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid for safety.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
Hi Signman,
The controller doesn't cycle normally. When it's cold the wait to start light is on for about 5 or 6 seconds, then it blinks a dozen times or so. That's what has me worried that a bunch of these plugs are shot. I'll take your advice though and try one first to see if it comes out. If it's tight I'll be prepared to TDC the engine for that cylinder.
Hi Mr. Roboto,
Please pardon my ignorance,
Where is the fuel shutoff solenoid?
What does disconnecting the Fuel shutoff Solenoid do?
Is this an electrical disconnection?
Everyone,
OK no more Fram filters for me. Just stopped at the local Cummins dealer and bought the PSD filter Fleetguard LF3630. It's HUGE compared to the normal IDI filter! Picked up a couple more pints of DCA4 too.
Thanks to everyone, this forum and you guys are all great.
Pigseye
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1990 F250 Extended Cab, 7.3L IDI, No turbo, Auto transmission, 215K miles, lots of rust!
1994 F250 Extended Cab, 7.3L IDI, Turbo, Auto transmission, 158K miles, very little rust
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I'd just unscrew them and see if they will pull out. If not, then I'd go to the trouble of finding TDC for that cylinder. Every Autolite doesn't melt, although there are enough that do to warrant replacement.
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This is exactly correct!
Very few will break, if you meet resistance, stop!
I will guess is that in 2 hours, all will be replaced, you will be a GP expert.
Fram is not the best filter, but I have used at least 50 of them, no trouble to report.
I have seen the light, and now use Wix filters. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
The problem is, one false move and he will break off a GP tip and have to pull the heads. Since he does not sound like the most mechanically proficient, I feel it is better to follow the safer course of action. With each piston all the way up, even if a tip DOES break off, there is a chance of retrieval without head removal.
If Pigseye doesn't know how to turn the engine, what are the chances he can remove the heads himself without hiring the work out?
Stay safe, Mr. Pigseye.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
Linear Mode
