I will make this short. I am working on a 91' F250 7.3 IDI. I melted my GP Harness. Does International offer a new harness? How hard is it to build a new harness? It is only 8 wires coming out of a relay, right? I have hit up a few salvage yards with little success.
the ends for the gps--can be a "bullet" sleeve connector--i/e--itll crimp on the wire one side--the other side is meant to go on a Bullet connector--have a few in my tool box--meant for 12 wire--which is the wire size on the gps--will slide right on the gp--
94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
Thanks for the replies. I talked to IH today and as you said there are extra wires. I dread attacking this and I need my truck. I got bent over and ordered the loom from Ford. *&*&^*(((@@ $258.32. I do not understand what happened. Would the relay going out cause an overload in my harness? My mechanic told me that the relay was bad and noticed the GP plug and the first few inches of wire were melted.
If the GP relay stuck and melted your wires, you need to pull and inspect the GP;s.
If they don't come out easily, they are probably melted at the tip and won't come out. If that's the case the heads need to be removed.
Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA
02 E350 15 Passenger Cream Puff, 72,000 Miles, 5.4L Gasser
'90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 420K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, No ELC! (Extended Life Coolant) & 10 Oz. Bars Stop Leak. 10 wonderful cool years using Freeze12 without any AC system modifications. Retired 11/8/2011 with blown trans.
You should have seen my truck when I got it, since it is a 7.3 in a 6.9 chassis, someone bought spade GPs and had the bullet wire harness, so they soldered a short length of threaded rod to the spades and plugged the bullet connectors to the threaded rod.
For your problem, if you have a bad connection at the GP, there can be a lot of heat build up at the connection to the GP. Is that where your melting occured, or was it next to the solenoid, you may have had a bad connection at the solenoid that built up heat also and took out the solenoid and the wiring.
Do a search for easier ways to remove swelled GPs than pulling the heads if they are swelled, although that may be the final need.
That is alot of info for my feeble mind to take in. I am at the mercy of my mechanic. I weld and machine for a living and consider myself pretty handy with a wrench. The general consensus seems to be to remove if possible and inspect the Gps, correct?
How do you bypass the system and wire in a button?
1)Try and explain just where the wiring harness was melted.
2)If you can cancel the order, that might not be bad because you could build it pretty easy, but if you can afford it and don't think you want to try and build it then move forward with that.
3)If you have the ability to do an ohm or resistance test on the GPs, that would help alot. Just unplug all of them and put one tester lead on the top of the GP, and one to ground, and write down the numbers.
Get back to us with the Ohm readings and a description of exactly how and where the harness was melted and we can go from there and help you for sure.
1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. Planned 4.7l stroker, spring-over-axle, interim 8.8" rear end till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal.
Alright starting from the left side looking at the engine
1,1,OL,1,1,1,1,1 ohms I could get no reading or sound from the meter on the third plug I checked.
All of the insulators are just about gone. I could not see the relay as it is underneath the turbo. if I had an idea of where it plugs in, I would do so more searching. I am not real crazy about dismantling my turbo and down tube. The mechanic today told me that the plug by or on the relay where the harness plugs in is melted, not the wires. There is another connector on the fender well and it looks fine.
Take a look at my throttle cable splice; real nice eh? What is the black plastic shroud on the top? What does it operate?
Last edited by mattwheaton; 12-15-2009 at 03:01 PM.
Holy cow is that rust on your IP!!!!
I guess you're in one of those salt road states or something.
Even trucks on the Oregon coast don't look like that.
I think you need to put your Ohm meter on a different setting, I think you are supposed to see more like 2-4ohms, I could check for sure, but see if you can get a more accurate reading on a different setting.
It almost seems like I can see a rusty GP also in the picture.
If you have that much rust I would say just about any problem could exist with sensors and the controller and what not.
If it were me I would wire in a manual GP button, or momentary toggle to a new solenoid. Just a simple high amp solenoid for constant duty, I may have a part number on mine but I know I threw the box it came in away.
Also I wonder if the GP controller is supposed to be moved when a turbo is installed, I would sure want to with all the heat.
I didn't read that article posted earlier, but that might walk you through installing a manual GP controller.
There is quite a bit of electricity going to those GPs, so if you have ones that will have a bad connection due to a rusty head, then you will have to replace them just for that fact.
Here I go giving you too much info again.
Let us know about the Ohm readings, or how the heads of the GPs look!
Edit: Oh yeah, and the black deal is for the cruise control, probably dosen't work anyway hugh?
I live in Oklahoma. The IP has residue from an old fuel leak and accumulated whatever. The GP ends are Brass and have residue from the insulation decaying. The insulation just crumbles when touvched. I would be interested in moving the controller if that is what is called for.
I would be interested in mounting a solid state controller.
I checked the readings again and came up with the same thing. The relay is disconnected, I am checking these cold.
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