glow plugs changed now tapping sound

[pigseye2]

A couple of days a go the truck wouldn't start. Pretty odd since it's been a great starter for the last 2 months I've owned it.

I knew it had a few bad glowplugs and when it wouldn't start there were a lot of clicks with a blinking "wait to start light." Prior to not starting it would click 5 to 7 times. When it wouldn't start it would click 20 times or so.

Well, the next day I change the glow plugs and used the TDC technique for each plug. Wouldn't you know it? They all came out (autolites) no problem. Installed motorcraft plugs.

Engine starts fine now but I still get 5 or 6 blinks and clicks. Does this mean the Glow plug controller is bad?

After changing the glow plugs, the truck sounded real "tappy" when it was cold. Starts sounding better after it warms up. I can't tell if I['m getting paranoid and this sound was always there but I didn't notice or if it is a new symptom of another problem.

Also discovered I either leaked or burned 1 1/2 quarts of oil over 1000 miles. This seems very excessive. Thoughts on the oil loss?

Thanks,
Pigseye

[olivera149]

How long is the WTS(Wait to Start) light staying illuminated? Double check all connectors to the GP terminals, they should all "snap" in. Also did you put any undue stress on the wires/connectors when pulling off the plug connectors to change the glow plugs.

To me sounds like a bad connection(S) not getting enough juice for the solid state controller assembly to function properly.

Try double cycling the GPs, turn key to on and wait for the WTS light to shut off, then immediately turn key off, then back on and then wait for the WTS light to shut off then try start up procedure.

These engines properly timed and on cold starts will make some noise, especially if a cylinder is not fireing because the respective GP did not get hot enough, which will explain the warmer the quiter.

One last thing to try is plugging your car in( if you have a block heater) for at least 3 hours on a cold start(over night) and see if that helps things out any, at least it will help throw out the fuel delivery issue.

--Ryan

[cdnsarguy]

A friend posted this many moons back......

DieselDon

Oil consumption, and the proper checking of the oil levels in Ford diesels comes up periodically. Ford dipsticks are calibrated for hot oil. The 10 quarts in the IDI engines expand about 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart as the oil heats up, and contracts the same amout after cooling. If you check the oil first thing in the morning ( which I grew up doing ) the engines will all indicate oils level below full, but when checked hot, will ( after a 10 minute drain time ) the oil level is usually at full. If you are checking the oil cold, and keeping the level at full, you are actually over filling the engine which will burn of the extra rapidly.

Suggestion: Check oil hot after 10 minute drain time.
Don't add until level reaches add line ( 2 quarts ).

In my days at Ford this often cured, or at least improved, the apparent oil consumption complaints.

[pigseye2]

O149,
I'll check my connections again. They seemed to "snap" in place pretty easily. I did notice that a couple of the connectors had broken plastic near the bottom but they still plugged in OK.

I presume there is a replacement kit for GP connectors. I'll surf around and see what I find.

cdnsaguy,
Dang it! I might have overfilled it because I did check the oil cold.

I'll check to see if it is full when it is cold. If it is "full" I'll drain some off before starting. No sense making it harder on the engine and promoting oil burning.

Thanks
Pigseye

[yaric008]

Well the blinking wait to start light doesn't sound right, but could just be nothing. The clicks you hear are normal. The glow plug controll cycles the power to the glow plugs so they don't get too hot.

It probably sounds tappy because all the glow plugs are working properly now and the fuel is detonoating quicker with the added heat of the plugs.

Sounds pretty much normal to me.

The oil thing, dunno... check the CDR for excess oil getting by.

[pigseye2]

Hi Yari,
This weekend I'm going to try plugging in the block heater to see what that does. I'm also going to check the wiring to the controller and GPs to make sure there aren't any weak points or loose grounds.

That should help isolate the blinking WTS light.

One question for you, what is a CDR?

Thanks,
Pigseye

[pigseye2]

Update

My oil was full when the engine was cold so I drained off about 1.5 quarts. Now it's at the correct level when the engine is warm.

Changed out battery cables, batteries, alternator, regulator and added an idler pully.

Seems to start great now with the new batteries but still checking the charging system because it seems like I'm not getting a full 14.5V.

[cdnsarguy]

Check my gallery for info and the pic of the CDR page 2