Okay now i know i've read more posts about this problem but I can't seem to find them right now. It got cold here this weekend and when it did the gp's stopped working all together. The light lights but no heat no clickign nothing. plugged in or not it doesn't make any difference. I also read a while ago that somebody had a schematic for how to wire the gp's just with a switch so i can control it. any help would be greatly appreciated.
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88 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab no mods yet
89 Ford f250 2wd Donor for parts for the extended cab
First I would do a test light test on all the GPs...
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93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
There is a small terminal on the pass side of the relay, which has a white wire on it. This is the terminal that the controller switches. Run a wire from this terminal, through a momentary pushbutton switch, and to any good GROUND.
There is no need to unhook the existing white wire unless you wish to completely disable automatic operation.
I like to have the manual pushbutton, if anything as a failsafe. Don't run the GP's for more than 8 seconds.
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
Okay thanks for the answers. I'll check the gp's and think i'm going to put in that momentaary switch so if nothing else i can do it manually. I'll let you know how it turns out.
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88 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab no mods yet
89 Ford f250 2wd Donor for parts for the extended cab
Use ONLY Motorcraft ZD-9 glow plugs in these engines. NEVER put Autolite glow plugs in or YOU WILL BE SORRY!!!! And you'll just have to spend ANOTHER $90.00 to go get the Motorcrafts!!!
If you have 2 or more bad GPs, the controller may not cycle at all.
Two problems that occur with the solid state ( 1987 to 1994 IDI engines ) GP systems. If a GP burns out ( circuit resistance goes up ), the controller cycles the GPs at a faster rate which doesn't let them get to max operating temp. If 2 or more GPs fail, the controller may not cycle the GPs at all ( very rapid or no clicking heard ). When you check the GPs, use an ohmmeter. A high resistance ( not necessarily burned out ) GP can cause circuit resistance to go up and the controller will then cycle the GPs too fast. You probably will not find this problem with a test light. Resistance spec for GPs = .5 to 1 ohm cold. Second problem. A poor controller ground ( black wire attached to valve cover stud ) will cause the controller to leave the GPs on longer, often damaging or failing them. If you are having mulitple GP failures, I would check closely the controller ground. Now the confusing part. Bad ground --> longer GP on time ( slower cycling ). Burned out GPs --> faster cycling If you have both situations, it may appear that the controller is cycling the GPs at the proper rate. Bad ground slows it up while the burned GPs speed it up ---> normal cycling. The system acts/sounds like it's working normally, but you have a hard starting concern.
Glow plug torque is 12 ft lbs, I always use anti sieze on the threads. OkieGringo
Well i did the light check and they check out fine but i'm going to try the ohm test. I also hooke dup the switch to the controller and i can here it click but it doesn't cycle the gp's as ther is no voltage drop on the meter. I also have to keep looking for the motorcraft gp's cuz none of the auto parts stores around here carry them. thanks for the help !.
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88 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab no mods yet
89 Ford f250 2wd Donor for parts for the extended cab
If you can hear the relay click, but you are getting no draw, then either the contacts inside the relay are bad or you aren't getting main power to the relay.
Get yourself a alligator clip wire so you can clip onto each big terminal on the relay, and see if you have power at each side (one side all the time, other side with the relay closed).
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1985 International rollback, 6.9L 5 speed "Li'l Big Truck"
Okay i'm starting to get upset, anyway. I rechecked all the glow plugs and found 1 that didn't register correctly. I had another GP controller so i swapped them out and that didn't help either. I must not be getting power to the contoller itself. But i don't quite understand how to check that. Not only that but when i was doing all this i found that where the wire goes into the top of the fuel filter assemlbly its pissing out fuel. I'm really getting tired of working on this.
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88 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab no mods yet
89 Ford f250 2wd Donor for parts for the extended cab
On the pax side fender is the starter relay/GP relay. Check the 2-yellow 10awg wires. There are 2 fusible links there, and they will burn out and then no juice to GPC. OkieGringo
Well I got it runnin again. All i know is i have to get a couple new gp's yet but it starts and runs again. It appears my ground on the controller was a little loose and dirty so it wasn't making a good connection. At least thats what i think it was because after i fixed that it started working again. Thanks for all your help guys , really appreciate it.
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88 Ford F250 4x4 extended cab no mods yet
89 Ford f250 2wd Donor for parts for the extended cab
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