I'm not sure if this has been talked about before or not. The first on cycle runs the normal length of time and then the Wait to Start light goes out. The second on cycle, no light and the relay cycles on, off, on, off, repeatedly. My voltage gauge (after market) cycles from 10 to 13 volts along with the controller relay. This is on a cold engine, and when it first began the air temp was 38 deg. The engine will start during the second cycle and the voltage is still jumping 10 to 14 volts for several seconds after the engine is running and settles in at 14 volts. I have never been into any of the glow plugs, and do not know their history. I'm right at about 190,000 miles.
Any ideas on this one?
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89 F250, 7.3 IDI n/a, overhauled E4OD with upgrades & billet torque converter 12/05, 3.55, all sensors replaced, 15k High volume low resistance tranny cooler. Alternator mod. Headlight mod.
This all sounds normal.
Remember when you compare the temperature in Lakeland to the temperature in Neepawa, Manitoba Canada, Lakeland is warm, has never been cold, and never will.
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
My WTS light goes on for about 7-10 seconds on the first cycle and if I turn the key off and wait a second then recycle, the WTS light goes on another 7-10 seconds.
If your truck is not starting on one cycle of the glow plugs, then you need to find out which plug(s) isn't working.
GP's are cheap, be sure to use OEM Motorcraft brand - Beru GP's. Autozone ($9 each) is more than half the cost of the same GP's from the Ford Dealership ($20+). Avoid Autolite [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] and Champion [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img], use only Motorcraft/Beru [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
How many seconds is your first WTS light?
--Hugh
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1991 F250 XLT, 2WD, 7.3L IDI, 5 speed, 168K.
I will be testing the glow plugs. What concerned me is that this has never worked like this before. I would allways have the Wait To Start light, no matter how many times I cycled them, plus the second cycle is extremely rapid with no light. Maybe I have plugs dropping off line after the first cycle?
Edit: First cycle is about 7-15 seconds, depends on how cold it gets here. It was 38 deg when this happened.
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89 F250, 7.3 IDI n/a, overhauled E4OD with upgrades & billet torque converter 12/05, 3.55, all sensors replaced, 15k High volume low resistance tranny cooler. Alternator mod. Headlight mod.
When the engine is cold, first start of day, it will crank for 5-10 seconds and sometimes start. Two cycles, it will start in about 5 seconds or less. Warm engine, no problem starting less than 5 seconds.
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89 F250, 7.3 IDI n/a, overhauled E4OD with upgrades & billet torque converter 12/05, 3.55, all sensors replaced, 15k High volume low resistance tranny cooler. Alternator mod. Headlight mod.
I'd recommend the ohms test for the glow plugs instead of test light. I tested mine with the test light procedure and 2 of them lit the test light, but they all failed the ohms test. None of them worked when hooked to a battery charger...
If I recall, the spec is 2-3 ohms maximum at cold engine.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
Exactly what is your start sequence..... start with key on.
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93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
Key on, Wait to start Light on up to 15 seconds if it is cold outside.
If in 70's or above, light is on about 5-10 seconds. Light goes out, crank engine about 5-10 seconds and stop if engine doesn't start. If no start, another glow plug cycle and engine will usually start almost immediately. Untill this last cold spell, the wait to start light worked normally on every cycle. But suddenly, if I want a second cycle, the light does not come on, and the relay cycles very rapidly. The engine will start during this second cycle. Something has changed the way it used to work. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
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89 F250, 7.3 IDI n/a, overhauled E4OD with upgrades & billet torque converter 12/05, 3.55, all sensors replaced, 15k High volume low resistance tranny cooler. Alternator mod. Headlight mod.
Test with a 12VDC test light, should take about 20 minutes.
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
Quick update: I pulled all glow plugs, all are Beru's, 2 were bad (No continuity). Installed two new Beru's and all is well. Thanks for all the help, everyone! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif[/img]
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89 F250, 7.3 IDI n/a, overhauled E4OD with upgrades & billet torque converter 12/05, 3.55, all sensors replaced, 15k High volume low resistance tranny cooler. Alternator mod. Headlight mod.
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