Hard Shift

[Lciambotti]

I know there are threads on this topic already, but of course I can't find one. Anyway, it shifted hard about a month ago(E040). I don't drive it much (11 MPG and I'm not a heavy foot). Then the next time it was fine. Now its shifting hard again I checked the FIPL settings last night, it was fine. Speedo/tach. working properly. Already replaced speed sensor and tach. sensor last year. I've only driven the truck about 3K miles since last year. Any thoughts on tranny or for that matter crappy mileage?

[cdnsarguy]

Check all the trans electrical connections especially the one on the right side with the tin cover, remove the tin heat shield, remove the solenoid connector by pushing on the center tab and pulling up on the wire harness. To install push down until a click is heard. Always reinstall the tin heat shield.
Your looking for corroded, bent or missing pins and water etc.......

[Lciambotti]

I actually replaced that connector not to long ago as well. I'd really like to swap this tranny out for a 5 speed and get it over with. I'll check it again.

[cdnsarguy]

How old is the FIPL.......
A/T - E40D FIPL Sensor Trouble Shooting & Adjustment
TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 186A
TRANSMISSION: E4OD
SUBJECT: FIPL troubleshooting & adjustment procedures
APPLICATION: Ford
DATE: Jan 1994
E4OD
FIPL Trouble Shooting & Adjustment Procedures (Diesel Applications Only)


Poor transmission performance and/or premature transmission failure may be caused by a defective Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL) sensor, or sensor signal. The sensor is located on the Fuel Injection Pump (Figure 1) and is used to inform the Transmission Control Unit Assembly (computer) of throttle position.
Ford Motor Company recommends that the FIPL be checked or replaced every 50,000 miles. However, it is possible for a FIPL sensor to fail at less than 50,000 miles. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you install a new "upgraded" FIPL sensor when a transmission overhaul is performed on any diesel applications.
You should also be aware that early design FIPL sensors are not as desirable as late design sensors.
Another potential concern is that the wiring harness leading to the FIPL sensor may be broken or shorted to ground. Closely inspect the harness where it is routed across the top of the engine to the FIPL sensor. The natural vibration of a diesel engine can easily wear through the wiring insulation where it contacts the engine, brackets, etc.
Note The voltage specification for signal return (item 2, page 2) was incorrect on the original bulletin. Remove original # 186 from your files and replace it with this revised bulletin. # 186A.
Note For testing and adjustment information see following information.
TESTING THE FIPL SENSOR
Note During these tests the negative lead of the voltmeter MUST be connected directly to the negative battery post and the computer and FIPL harnesses must not be disconnected.

1. Wire A is reference voltage sent to the sensor from the computer ORANGE/WHITE
TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be approximately 5 volts.
2. Wire B is the ground path from the FIPL sensor to the computer BLACK/WHITE
TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be volts?? or less.
3. Wire C is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the FIPL sensor . TEST With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF and the throttle at idle position, voltage should be approximately 1.2 volts. With The throttle fully open, voltage should be approximately 4.5 volts. ORANGE/WHITE (CENTER WIRE)

The sweep from 1.2 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at full throttle should be smooth. A meter with a snapshot or min/max capture mode is useful to catch intermittent "opens".
If the previously described range cannot be attained, FIPL adjustment can be achieved by rotating the sensor (on its bracket) one way or the other until the voltage values are satisfactory.

.................................................. ................................................
DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C

[redvetracr]

Originally Posted by cdnsarguy

How old is the FIPL.......

out of curiosity lets say you had access to a Ford mechanic, the Ford scan tool and the correct gauge block to adjust a FIPL the "Ford" way....would you use that method or the volt meter method? For years I towed an enclosed 48` triple axle gooseneck with my `94 dually and never had a problem, then without the trailer one day my trans slipped out of OD into 3rd...I had the trans serviced and a new FILP installed by a guy who did thousand of them and knew EXACTLY how to adjust it. Hooked up the trailer and the first slight incline ( an overpass) at hwy speed the trans kicked out of OD, off the hwy to the closest Ford dealer ( found the "gear man") who looked at me like I was nuts when I explained the above volt meter method.....he used the gauge block and the Ford scan tool. I am starting to have a similar but different problem, I take a route with the trailer that has one long slow incline, just before I crest the top the trans kicks out of OD....unfortunately I don`t take the trailer out much so I don`t encounter the problem very often. Should I be taking it out of OD as I am climbing this long grade or not? thanks in advance!!
redvetracr

[cdnsarguy]

Yes would be my answer to the OD out on hills.... you need to keep the RPMs up. If the trans is hunting for a gear anytime..........then it should be OD off also.

Yours is a turbo so things will be much better for you in the towing department.....re power, but preservation of the trans would be my first choice.

As for which test...... I do the voltage thing, others have done the "block" adjustment with the same results.......