hard to start 7.3L idi tried everything need ip timing suggestions...
Hey folks... me again... after new injection pump, new injectors, motor ran great after rebuild bottom up, but original ip wore out after 3 miles... Motor had great idle, but had a glow plug controller issue in the beginning.. Now brand new harness, controller, beru glow plugs, 200 amp circuit breaker solely for glow plugs which heat up in about 4 seconds... And the truck still won't start now... 2 optima batteries, new gear drive nipondenso style starter... And nothing... Searching for any possible explainations... Truck used to run, and then die, but I'm sure that was the original pump... So now, I need help... I believe, that the fact of the brand new rings, and great compression could have something to do with it not running properly without just everything properly adjusted, but can't figure it out... Used to see black smoke when pump was advanced, and now with new pump, not any white smoke at all, so obviously I have something off... There is plenty of fuel in the lines, and pressure at bleeder valve; proper units measured in time that it... No air intrusion because everything is brand new seal wise etc... Appreciate any help on the matter... Mostly curious about ip timing... The pump manufacturer recommended a setting of about the one o'clock position, but I've heard people go as far as the four o'clock position...
Last edited by troubleddiesel; 11-08-2012 at 08:50 PM.
Start by lining up the marks for initial start. One running you can play with the timing.
Paul - Pocono Mtns. USA
02 E350 15 Passenger Cream Puff, 64,000 Miles, 5.4L Gasser
'90 E350 7.3L Ex-Ambulance High Top 420K Miles, No Turbo, Stock Stock stock, No ELC! (Extended Life Coolant) & 10 Oz. Bars Stop Leak. 10 wonderful cool years using Freeze12 without any AC system modifications. Retired 11/8/2011 with blown trans.
ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS? AND NO, MY WAIT TO START LIGHT IS NOT IN NEED OF EXISTANCE... BUT THANK YOU... HAVE FIDDLED WITH THE TIMING ON THE IP NOW FOR DAYS... NO WHITE SMOKE, NO BLACK SMOKE... HOT PLUGS, PLENTY OF FLOW... DOESN'T RUN..
If you have no smoke out the tail pipe while cranking, you are not getting fuel to the cylinders. Have you bled the air from the high pressure lines?
Even if you were 180 deg out of time you would still get smoke out the tail pipe when cranking.
Is there a reason for all caps? It's taken as a raised voice in most forums.
With a high pressure line cracked loose at an injector, you will only see bubbles at starter RPM's. once you see bubbles, go to the next one. You stated earlier that your GP's heat up in like 4 seconds. Is it possible that you burnt them out?
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have you tried a shot of good old ether? make sure glow plugs are not energised.When I bleed the air out of my lines I cracked all injectors lines and then tighten up the ones I see diesel spitting out. starts after 4 or are tightend up---Rob
Try a little gas on a rag over the intake , works most of the time.Also plug the block heater in so the engine will be nice and warm.As far as the pump timing there is a line on the pump just line(center it up) it up with the top stud on the pump that will get you in the ballpark.Hope this helps!
You state in your first post you have no smoke. If you have no smoke out the tailpipe while cranking, you have a fuel delivery problem, not a timing problem.
You mentioned 1 0'clock and 4 o'clock positions- does this mean you have adjusted the timing gear position? I hope not, as there are no "o'clock" positions for timing. Please describe the method you used.
For timing to cause a no start you would have to be out a tooth or more on the gear- the amount of adjustment on the pump mounting isn't enough to get it far enough out of time to cause a no start. And being that far out of time would give you tremendous smoke out the tailpipe while cranking.
Yes.. you are correct... What happened was when I installed the new pump, I thought that I would be able to re-align the gears by marking there positions, knowing they may be a tooth or two off.. because I removed the entire assembly from block.. pump gear housing and all, thinking it would be easier to install as one unit, and then fuss with re-aligning the gears afterward by trial and error.. but now realizing that it is off, I would have left the housing and gear in place, and removed the pump from the housing instead.. so now, I know I would have to remove the whole front assembly off of the block to be able to view the alignment marks again.. as they were when I rebuilt the motor previously attempting to run the used pump.. so I need any sort of knowledge or ideas from people who would have made this same mistake, as to how they figured aligning the ip gear with the corresponding marks on the rest of the gears in the motor.. so for now, I'm waiting on the pulse adapter to go one by one, on aligning the teeth, to get the pump true again... But its going to take all day that way... Sheeesh... What a hassle! But that's all part of the fun in learning I guess... Any advice would be greatly appreciated...
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