Have I Killed It? 1994 F250 7.3L IDI? PLEASE HELP!!

[Gryphon]

Hello everyone! This is my first post as I am a diesel virgin. So, please be gentle with me. [img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif[/img]

I just bought this 1994 Ford F-250 Supercab with a 7.3L ?IDI? (I know it's a 7.3L and not a Power Stroke, so does that mean it's an IDI?), auto transmission with overdrive and a service/utility bed. The VIN has an "M" as the engine code.

Background:

The truck had been sitting idle for nearly a year.

Wouldn't start initially. But I put a new starter on it and it fired right up.

Leaks around 6 of the 8 injectors.

I know I need to change all of the filters and change the oil, hoses, belts, flush and refill the radiator, etc.

Why I think I might have killed it.

I was trying to drive it home (about 10 miles) and about 5 miles into the trip it suddenly ran hot and died. It has water in both the radiator and coolant res.

I had been getting some black smoke under acceleration but the truck was running fine until it suddenly got hot and died and then wouldn't restart. I chalked the black smoke up to a dirty air and/or fuel filter, or contaminated fuel, etc.

I never lost oil pressure (assuming the gauge is correct), the temp gauge never went all the way over to "H"ot and there doesn't appear to be any coolant leaking or in the oil.

So, my question is, do you think I've damaged the engine? I haven't tried to restart it since I did initially right after it died while I was driving it. It's sitting on the side of the road waiting for me to come back and get it.

Should I change the thermostat before I attempt to restart it? Or can I remove the thermostat altogether for the remaining 5 miles of the trip assuming that I can get the engine restarted after it completely cools?

Should I even try to restart it?

What should I do? Have I killed it?

Your help is greatly needed and will be greatly appreciated.

Bill

[88beast]

well m code is an idi it may just be that the truck needs to be fixed up when you moved it it was not in good running condition it could be anything get it towed then try fixing the injectors new air cleaner and the works also change the fluids

[Gryphon]

After it cooled down I decided to try and start it and drive it the rest of the trip to the location where I'll work on it.

It started up and ran just fine for the rest of the trip, never getting past the middle of the temperature range on the gauge.

Whew!! I thought I might have really messed the old truck up. But it looks like it's going to be okay.

I'll get her a new belt, hoses, thermostat, glow plugs, oil, air and fuel filters, injector seals and install AMSOIL from bumper to bumper (coolant, motor oil, power steering fluid, transmission fluid and gear lube in the differential, grease) along with new wheel bearings, wheel cylinders and brakes, rotors and drums all around and full AC service.

What am I missing? What other basics should I pay attention to on a truck that's been sitting up for a year?

After the basics, I'll add an AMSOIL dual remote filtration system, new tires, paint, window tint, restore the interior, Rhino Lining (tool boxes, bed and interior floorboards), etc.

What should I look to do to the engine/drivetrain to increase performance and/or efficiency?

[88beast]

well if ur in cold check glow plugs and u should look at ur use of the truck for power upgrades you go racing addpropane you pull heavy loads use larger exhust all depends on how much fuel you want to chug

sat for 1 year id say check rust on underbody (not sure where it sat) and check the bushings on your rear sway bar they may need new well all bushings

[RLDSL]

If it got up to around 240 deg, I believe you should have an overtemp sensor, it would have shut down automatically.

[Gryphon]

Thanks for the info.

I hadn't thought about suspension parts. This is a southern truck and doesn't have any significant rust.

Thanks again.

[macmaniac1]

If it keeps overheating. check the cooling system for signs of oil or exhaust. These trucks have a problem with cavitation of the cylinder liners. especially if the correct levels of coolant additives are not maintained by the previous owner. A friend of mine had the same issue with a truck that he bought. he loosened the radiator cap and limped it home. He was lucky to have a spare engine. He is eventually going to have the one that he took out sleeved.

[agnem]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RLDSL</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If it got up to around 240 deg, I believe you should have an overtemp sensor, it would have shut down automatically. </div></div>

No, they don't shut down automatically.

[cdnsarguy]

If you have it at home check the tstat for the trquired correct one......

CAUTION:
The specified/required thermostat does not contain an internal bypass, since the bypass is located in the cylinder block. Whenever the thermostat is replaced, it is mandatory that only Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807974C94 thermostat be installed.

CAUTION:
Do not attempt to repair any thermostat. It should be replaced if it is not operating properly.

Check the new thermostat before installing it for correct opening temperature. Before suspending in boiling water, with a flashlight check where the rubber and the flat metal flange meet for bad seal. Tstat should start to opening barely at 180-192f, fully open 200-212f, allow to cool and check for rubber seal again.

Removal: Disconnect batteries, drain 4+ gals A/F, remove: as required, fan belt, alternator set aside, alt bracket, remove filter support from fuel filter then e/block. Disconnect upper rad hose at rad, remove tstat bolts and housing. Clean both faces, depression and holes in block, ensure check ball in goosekneck is clean, free and rattles "do not remove".
Installation is reverse proceedure, I do not use sealant on gaskets and faces. REMEMBER the tstat pellet(copper end) goes into the block. I do use a "very small amount" of sealant on the edge of the tstat face when installing into the recess, now go for coffee, allow sealant to setup, this has saved me from tstat slippage when the gasket and goosekneck are installed. Replace all items in reverse order......

Manifold bolt torque......... 20ftlbs

Check my gallery for the pics of the right one.......