Can somebody direct me to the brighter lights headlight modifications that shows the relays and wire scematic for this. Thanks, I looked for it but can't find it.
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
Shouldn't need a schematic, like most all typical relay used circuits, a relay is energized with lo current for it to carry the higher amps from and to the higher amp component---headlights or whatever.
i think its on my website in my sig if not i have it somewhere
cdncarguy has it and 91diesel (anthony) has it
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
I do? :P unless I forgot about it and lost it, I don't have it.
It IS fairly straight forward, though, if you know some electronics. Just get two relays, and some wire from radio-shack or wherever. Basically you put bigger cables in for more amperage and put the relays in-line with the cable. Trace your wires for the on/off and dimmer switch. I think you would use one for high beam and one for low beam as well as one for on/off. Don't hold me to this. Mine were always bright enough for me so I didn't do it. Course the only time I ever thought about it was back when I knew zip about electronics...now I love them.
Mostly what I'm trying to do is drop the electrical load on the stock headlite switch. I'm always concerned when I'm towing I will overload the dash switch. Plus getting brighter lites is a big plus.
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
sorry anthony i thought u sent me one once when i was looking into how to do it
u must just have said how to do it then or somin
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
You will need 2 relays and 2 circuit breakers. Some 14 ga. wire. Female Quik Connect crimp on 14 ga. connectors to slide over the male relay connections and circuit breakers. Butte connectors for splicing. Soldering the splice connections is better, then use shrink tubing over the splice .
Relays--- Ford FOAB14B192-AA or AZone MR15 has attach bracket MR12 None or any compatable. Ford does not have an attach bracket. Junk yards should have plenty of these.
Circuit Breakers 1- LO Beam 15 amp 1 - Hi beam 15 amp RV stores have these or automotive stores.
On the relays #30 Com. B+ #87A NC #87 NO #85 coil B+ #86 B- These numbers are marked on the relay connection side.
On the headlights determine which wire goes to the LO beam and which wire goes to the HI beam , tag them as such.
Cut the wire going to the LO beam, leave some length to splice onto it , from the wire end going into the headlight splice on 2 wires one wire long enough to goto the other head light Lo beam, the other wire to #87 on the relay. The wire end left you cut to the Lo beam, splice a wire on and connect to #85 on the relay. On #86 relay terminal connect a wire to Neg. or frame. Now run a wire with the 15 amp circuit breaker in line from the battery to #30 on the relay. Test for working.
Now do the same for the Hi Beams. Use the 15 amp breaker in this battery line.
2nd Edit This is for the 9004 series bulbs. LO 55 watts Hi 65 watts. Don't know what amperage the 9007 series pulls.
DON'T USE FUSES -- IF THEY BLOW -- YOU HAVE NO HEADLIGHTS. The original circuit breaker is plugged into the fuse panel, leave it there. Your lights will go off and on if there is a problem useing circuit breakers.
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99.5 F350 XLT Lariat 4X4 AT 4.10 DW CC LB Centurion conversion Garret Turbo Radio SD & Tape 126,700 03/08 Strictly stock. Build date 03/99
Rebuilding engine. 92 F350 7.3 IDI CC LB 2WD Banks turbo US Gear O/U
1990 F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L IDI E4OD Dually 280K+ 2WD
Reman Promar Long Block 11/07
Reman IP - New Delphi Injectors -New Beru GP's 07/07 New radiator & hoses New WP
Dual Exhaust 3"X18" resonators frnt. of rear wheels
Soup bowl gone, 4" intake W/AZ filter
Cobra CB W/Weather Interrupt - Dual Trucker Antenna's
Blk. Grill W/Brush Guards - Fog lights - Rally driving Lights. GN 20K & Reese 16K 5er hitch
Stand corrected, thanks LMJD. Didn't actually check my 90 F350, my schematics show the circuit breaker in the headlight sw. up to the 88s then 89 up were changed. Oh well no harm done .
I'm always concerned when I'm towing I will overload the dash switch.
From that statement, could I take it you are more concerned about the trailer marker lite load ? If you are, you can use a relay at the rear if you have a B+ line going back to a 7-way trl. hook up. On a 7-way the GREEN wire powers the marker - tail and license lites on the trailer.
Remove the GREEN from the 7-way and use that wire to energize the relay #85 term. run a WHITE (B-) wire backout from the 7-way to #86 term. A Black (B+) out to #30 and a GREEN wire from #87 to where you removed the GREEN wire. Numbers indicate relay terminals . Above is true if the 7-way is hooked up to standard color code. If your trailer is an RV your prolly powering 16-18 bulbs , about 6-8 amps.
Bill aka Oldbull
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99.5 F350 XLT Lariat 4X4 AT 4.10 DW CC LB Centurion conversion Garret Turbo Radio SD & Tape 126,700 03/08 Strictly stock. Build date 03/99
Rebuilding engine. 92 F350 7.3 IDI CC LB 2WD Banks turbo US Gear O/U
1990 F350 XLT Lariat 7.3L IDI E4OD Dually 280K+ 2WD
Reman Promar Long Block 11/07
Reman IP - New Delphi Injectors -New Beru GP's 07/07 New radiator & hoses New WP
Dual Exhaust 3"X18" resonators frnt. of rear wheels
Soup bowl gone, 4" intake W/AZ filter
Cobra CB W/Weather Interrupt - Dual Trucker Antenna's
Blk. Grill W/Brush Guards - Fog lights - Rally driving Lights. GN 20K & Reese 16K 5er hitch
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
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